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mws
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Posts posted by mws
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The 5 magic P's of rusty bolt removal:
- PB Blaster
- Patience (let the PB work)
- Proper tools - six point socket and breaker bar or impact wrench
- Pounding - whacking the head with a hammer loosens corrosion
- Propane - to power the torch to heat whatever the bolt is going into.
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More grinder and a dust mask. Don't you hate those black boogers?
The good thing is that you can suck 'em out with a magnet...
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Well, technically its rubbing the lower washer and brace and not the actual arm itself...
I know I can adjust the stops, but have not done so because it's not a big problem.. it barely touches and I don't typically turn to lock anyway. I will see how it is after I install the JGCC, RC UCA's and swap the wheels out with another set I have.. If it's still doing it then I probably will.
Ehh, just glue some sandpaper to the inner sidewall of the tire and it'll self adjust!
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We could use those as a filter to the board.... As a poll.
"If we gave you a set of these for free, would you install them on your Pathy and drive around on them?"
If a person answers yes, they are automatically rerouted to another web site!
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DONE! Dagwoodzz pictures matched my '87 perfectly. Did have to run a wire under the rear door sill for right turn signal.
All soldered in, clean as a whistle. I went with a 7 prong "RV" socket as those seem to be evolving into the default standard these days - and what the tow van and existing trailer use. I already have a 7 to 4 converter for towing little trailers.
And I was VERY impressed with how well the little pathy pulled the trailer! I towed a rather large tandem axle flatbed car trailer with the carcass of a full size Chevy van on it about 10 miles across town.
I avoided exceeding 45 mph as the really short wheelbase makes me nervous, but power wise, it did just fine up to 45!
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The roof panel on my '87 did not have any structural elements in it that I felt were adequate to support anything more than 20 or 30 pounds without permanently altering the roof (ie - caving it in!)
The best options I see to mount without damaging the roof are:
- use cross bars anchored to side walls
- design load distributing feet that contour to the roof and spread the load over several square feet. Try to concentrate towards the edges of the roof as well.
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My '87 XE was wearing 31x10.5 with no problem when I bought it. The previous single owner was not aware of anybody doing any suspension lifting.
When I put the brand new Cooper STT 31x10.5-15LT's on, I got the tiniest of scuff rub at certain turn angles over bumps. Not enough to even look into and solve. I'd estimate these Coopers are one of the largest 31x10.5's out there. Yes, they are all slightly different.
My other set of "street wheels" are shod with A/T P255/70-16's. Fit nearly identical. Just a little scuff every now and then.
Bottom line:
- You should be fine with anything up to 31x10.5-15LT's or P255/70-16's, barring usage of wheels with abnormal backspacing.
- You should be looking for a new tire place, preferably one where they have a clue. This guy appears to only want your money, not to help you.
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Milemarkers break. Seen it happen quite a few times. The hub body shatters. That's why they're so cheap. Lots of hardcore wheelers buy two sets cause a broken hub is cheaper to replace than a broken axleshaft...
That's a good point... I always prefer having an inexpensive component be the weak link!
Looking at install instructions, it looks like it would also be a relatively easy trail side repair as well..
So, are the left and right sides the same or different? Ie. need to carry one extra, or a set?
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Just posted this over in the garage:
OE = This specific part was used as Original Equipment on this vehicle.
OEM = This part was manufactured by an Original Equipment Manufacturer -somebody who also manufactures parts for Nissan. This part may be identical to a part used by Nissan in this same vehicle, or maybe in another vehicle, or it may even be completely different from what Nissan used.
So with OEM, you have to do your homework. May be better than OE, or may exactly equivalent to OE, or may be grossly inferior. But usually, pretty comparable. At least the manufacturer knows what Nissan has spec'd for the OE part.
I have found Rock Auto does great on some parts, not so great on others. And sometimes goes ludicrous on shipping. I start there and then shop around.
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my QX4 and my civic
having done about 175,000 driving miles in CA with tinted front windows like this, i've never actually been pulled over for it but i have received tint tickets after being pulled over for other violations.
for example I once ran a stop sign and cop was watching, i was very nice to him and he was nice in return, i got a tint ticket and just a warning on the stop.
Pictures removed by Moderator. Please resize your images to 640x480 or smaller before posting.
Another tip with tinted windows: Roll them down if you get pulled over!
Smart cops fear getting shot. Statistically, walking up to a car they just pulled over is one of the most dangerous things they do. Many cases of them getting shot doing so.
Sooooo.. the smart ones walk up very cautiously and are looking for suspicious things - like drivers or passengers with guns in their hands or laps.
If you have dark tinted windows, the officer can't see, and that makes them nervous. Making them nervous makes you more likely to fail the "attitude" test.
If you've never been a friend of an officer and learned the tricks from them, here's rule #1:
Failing the attitude test pretty much guarantees you will get the ticket you deserve.
Passing the attitude test makes you MUCH, MUCH more likely to get a warning (unless they have a really tough quota to meet that day).
So, roll down the windows so they can see in, and have all your passengers leave their hands out in plain sight. Leave your hands at the top of the steering wheel so they can be seen.
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ok, i don't know much about these iridium plugs..
are they that much better in performace to justify 66 bucks?
my platinums went for 10 years and i replaced them for $15.00. with bosh platiniums.
so if its a matter of just duration of the plug being 100,000 and i have to change them after 90k for 15 bucks i'd go for the 15 bucks
I say use Iridium only if:
A) manufacturer specifies it and you are worried they'll void warranty if you don't
you need the extra 0.1 hpC) you think your friends will think more of you if you do.
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I have an extremely skilled technician buddy who works on Nissans, Hondas, and BMW's (and that's all! It's great to be so good you can pick what you work on!)
After changing countless spark plugs over the last 20 years, he has found a few Bosch spark plugs in Nissans and Hondas on which the insulator has cracked or broken. That's like 3 or 4 failures out of a few thousand.
But never a Bosch that failed in a BMW.
And never an NGK that failed in a Nissan or Honda.
Not enough data on NGK's in BMW's to form any opinions. BMW drivers tend to stick to Bosch.
Weird? Yes. And even I can't begin to theorize why. Bosch is an excellent company that produces excellent products.
But based on his database and my VERY limited database (I had the insulator break off on one Bosch in my old 240SX - still ran fine and caused no damage but made me wonder) I choose to use Bosch in my BMW and Chevy, but stick to NGK in the Nissan.
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And it's been said before, but this thread warrants a reminder from the engineering contingency:
Once a stud or bolt has been overtorqued by a certain amount and has entered the plastic deformation zone, it has been PERMANENTLY deformed and work hardened. It is PERMANENTLY altered and will not return to it's original condition.
It must be replaced if you want to retain original design strength.
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VG's use Iridium plugs??
I didn't know that...I thought VG's/VQ's used platinum :confused:
That shocked me, too. Very few vehicle warrant the .02% performance improvement for the price.
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I was just on the Exedy website which is the OEM clutch for our Nissans. I should compare some part numbers to other models and see if they match up. Suprisingly, they had a seperate part # for 96-99, 2000, 2001, and 2002+ if I remember correctly. All the other manufactures have listed all these years as the same part number. The guide also says "performance options available" but doesn't list them. I figure if the stock clutches are Exedy and work well, a performance Exedy might be something to look into.
OE or OEM?
OE = This specific part was used as Original Equipment on this vehicle.
OEM = This part was manufactured by an Original Equipment Manufacturer -somebody who also manufactures parts for Nissan. This part may be identical to a part used by Nissan in this same vehicle, or maybe in another vehicle, or it may even be completely different from what Nissan used.
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Hmm, just crashed around Rock Auto for a while..
The clutch in my '87 uses a Beck-Arnley kit 0619119... which is also used in the '87 300ZX Turbo (but not 300ZX non turbo)... So I'd say the stock '87 is, umm, more than capable!
But on your 2000, it usesa Beck-Arnley kit 0619360 ($214, BTW) which I didn't find used in any other applications in my 5 minute search. The last models of 300ZX turbo used a different clutch kit. I'd recommend crashing around the site some more to find more info. They all appear to be the same size - 250mm, 24 spline. Maybe a late model 300ZX turbo clutch will fit yours?
That should be PLENTY of holding power for whatever you have planned... albeit at higher pedal force.
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Does anyone know the limit of the stock clutch?
My impression is that it has quite a bit of reserve holding power - I do not recall anyone having problems even with the typical upgrades we do.
Like most manufacturers, Nissan would probably use common components across multiple vehicles to minimize costs. And since the Pathy probably has the lowest power output of all their V6 applications, the stocker may be pretty overkill already? Anyone know details of commonality of our clutch components as compared to, say, the 300ZX from similar years?
Yesterday, I was towing a large tandem axle flatbed with a full size van carcass on it. With my Pathy with 200K miles on the clutch.
No problems! I was quite impressed.
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Is it a true dual exhaust, or just dual tailpipes? Dual tailpipes are generally OK, tampering with OE cat converter and 02 sensors configuration can lead to hassles.
As stated, no limo tint on windows in front of B-pillar (windshield and front door windows).
If dirt passer, err, pop charger does not have CARB exemption number, you will need to put stock airbox in when having it tested.
The law in CA requires you to pass two independent tests:
1) A tailpipe sniffer test (simple idle and 2500 rpm test in some areas, rolling test on dyno in areas with serious smog issues).
2) AND a visual test. Everything deemed pollution emission related must be exactly as it left factory, or CARB approved. Even if your modifications result in reduced emissions, they are illegal if they do not have a CARB exemption.
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I'm curious why you're considering the Centerforce?
I've heard pretty mixed reviews.
As of now, I'm thinking I'll go OE replacement. The original is still holding up after 200K miles... Seems like it would be hard to beat that kind of reliability.
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I agree, it is a time consuming pain. Being an amatuer masochistic contortionist would help.
But take it to the dealer? Are you serious? Think about it.... If you hated it, how much do you think those gorillas will like it? Think they'll take pride in doing that job well? Or just slap it and forget it?
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If Phil doesn't want them, I'll take seconds...
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Nope. Never have a problem here...
That's because I REFUSE to let them touch the lug nuts with an impact wrench while installing. They have two choices:
1) Let me install. (I bring my torque wrench with me).
2) Do it by hand while I supervise.
These conditions are made perfectly clear before they start work. If they don't like it, I leave.
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I used NGK's from Rock Auto. Fit perfect, work fine.
Pretty shade of blue...
If anyone cares... I don't! They promptly turn dusty brown if used properly! -
I was gonna ask about the timing "belt" as well... I was assuming it would still be the 'ol BULLETPROOF 2.4 l that was in my 240SX...
Personally, I say:
Sexy as a breadbox, durable as a rock, fragile as a chunk of lead, reliable as a hammer. IE, the PERFECT work beater!
Unless, of course, you like working on your vehicles a lot... Then get an S10/Ranger instead.
And if he maintained it and took reasonable good care, it's got a LOT of life in it, in which case it's really pretty dammed cheap when you look at your long term cost per mile!
BTW, I have just over 200K MILES on the original clutch in my V6 pathy.... If not abused, they are remarkably durable!
Battery Trouble?
in The Garage
Posted
Again, what is the voltage at the battery?
Without knowing that, it's pretty much shooting in the dark.