- Sign In Changes: You now need to sign in using the email address associated with your account, combined with your current password. Using your display name and password is no longer supported.
- If you are currently trying to register, are not receiving the validation email, and are using an Outlook, Hotmail or Yahoo domain email address, please change your email address to something other than those (or temporary email providers). These domains are known to have problems delivering emails from the community.
mws
-
Posts
2,904 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Calendar
Posts posted by mws
-
-
MWS, just BUY the damn disconnect, you don't have to reinvent EVERYTHING !!!
B
BLASPHEMY!
-
Now that I've seen your plenum, I suspect the real root cause was aerodynamic turbulence. As the RPM increased, the air volume and velocity increased. It would come rushing into the smallish plenum and swirl around in there, hitting the cones of fuel coming out of the injectors from the side and disrupting proper dispersion. Increasing the size will definitely help.
The new box may require some trial and error to avoid turbulence and the aforementioned pressure resonance issues. Engineers actually spend many, many hours designing intake tracts to eliminate them from new designs.
You may have to add air diverting features to avoid the turbulence. I would suggest having the air come in well to the side of the TB, and as low as possible. And then make the plenum as tall as possible so you can add an extension above the TB (like a velocity stack) that extends up at least 3 or 4 inches above where the air comes in. And then a couple fins inside to reduce swirling or cyclone actions within the plenum itself. So the air comes into the plenum and hits a few diffusers and then works it's way upwards and is drawm into the velocity stack where it is guided nice and smoothly into the TB throat.
I want to do what you're doing on both my van (for cfm reasons) and on the Pathy (for water ingestion reasons).
Your experience makes me even more likely to use the stock air filter enclosure for the plenum! Ugly, yes, but the engineering to assure smooth flow is already done!
-
Definitely ON.
I will figure out a way to make quick disconnects for trail use, but personally would not drive a street vehicle without them. I have in the past, and will agree it is fine to do so 99.9999% of the time. No vehicle really needs them MOST of the time. It's only about .0001% of the time when you will need them - to avoid sudden obstacles or collisions - and I prefer to be able to do that. Crashing sucks.
Kinda like a seatbelt. Or ABS. When you need them, you really need them. And it is not possible to predict when you will - you're not in control of other people, deer, or fate.
-
you know.. from what i've read since I installed my huge tranny cooler, you actually CAN have too big of a cooler. The tranny oil runs best at a certain temp, and I for one noticed my tranny shifted much rougher and generally less smooth under all circumstances than before I put the big cooler on. Someone said something somewhere about possible damage to the tranny over the longrun if the oil isn't able to warm up to the appropriate temp. whether they may have been just BS'ing, or actually have a valid point, I'll never know.
That's why a lot of us run the tranny fluid through the stock radiator cooler (IF it is in good condition!) after the auxiliary cooler.
Double bene's:
1) If the tranny fluid is cooler than the engine coolant, it helps the radiator out.
2) If the tranny fluid is too cool, the engine coolant brings it back up.
-
Double check that the old filter gasket isn't still there under the new one.
Hey, that's what I was gonna say!
What you described is a common symptom of double o-ring. Sometimes the o-ring from the old filter sticks to the block.
-
EGT? On a Pathy? I didn't know any of them ever came with one....
-
Gonna do a DBS while you're at it?
:confused:
(Drum brake swap)
Signed,
The pro-IS guy
-
Didn't have to negotiate at all.... Just called Clay's extension and mentioned that their products, service, and price were getting great accolades on NPORA, and if he could extend the same incredible $133 delivered deal to me, I would buy a set right now and had my card in my hand... That's it! Took up about 3 minutes of his time and mine.
Then we got to yacking, and I asked about their shocks and how they compared to Rancho 5000's.... He said exactly what I wanted to hear - every bit as HD and able to keep 31" tires well in control, but not as stiff. He had run Rancho's for years.
-
These are plastic, but the ends are not visible because the brackets obscure them. I am (was?) assuming there was only one manufacturer with multiple companies private labeling them, but evidently not!
I'll pull one out to check.
And I have one of the most incredible local fastener stores here in town. I have NEVER been able to come up with something they didn't have in stock or couldn't order for me. Family owned, hot rodders at heart. Just wonderful!
-
With all those options, you'd think you had them all covered, ehh?
200K+ on MT with ORIGINAL clutch!
For the purpose of the pole, I'll enter it as 200K...
-
The '88 came with a 3" body lift kit on it. This is more than I need (only running 31" tires), so I am wanting/planning to cut the spacers in half and re-install them with shorter bolts (if needed).
Since I can not see the construction of the blocks (they're already installed), can someone confirm that this will be doable? The few spacers I've seen were made from extrusions where the spacer had the same profile for their full length - so cutting them down works well. But if for some weird reason they were molded and had special features on the ends, well, that would pose a problem and I will want to order a set of 2" blocks before I start.
TIA!
-
The shocks? No. They manufacture their own - aka "Heckethorn" shocks.
-
Another data point:
Just called Rough Country at 1-800-222-7023 and spoke to Clay at ext 125 and mentioned NPORA. Upper control arm kit is shipping out to me in California for $133 (from Tennesee)
Very helpful guy, great price!
I will also be trying a set of their RC8000 shocks on the front ($31 each from Clay). The '88 has RS5000's on it, but frankly, I find them stupidly stiff and harsh on the compression stroke. Like riding a 1980's tech dirt bike. I am not a member of the "trucks oughta rattle your teeth" school. I'll let you all know how they are!
-
Let us know how long your compressor lasts, gillj. 90+% of folks who use those kits have the compressor burn up within 2 years due to inadequate lubrication.
http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=9211
-
4 wheel independent suspension?
How can it be so capable? I thought the Heep guys say solid axles are the "only" option for "serious" off road vehicles... And vehicles like these and H1's are no good for off roading...
Sorry.... the pro IS guy just couldn't resist that one....
-
The repair activity sure sounds suspect.
But good luck getting them to own up to it... If they do, you are one of the few to find an auto trans repair shop more interested in integrity than money!
From what you described, that tranny is very seriously toasted. The red light on the dash is kinda like the red light for oil pressure. They don't so much tell you that something needs attention as much as they just rub salt in the wound. The light comes on some time after the damage is done.
Getting it rebuilt may or may not have it functioning well. For whatever reason, rebuilt automatics seem to be a complete crapshoot. I personally have completely given up on getting them rebuilt or recommending they be rebuilt. I have several horror stories, a whole bunch of "well, except for ....." stories, and not one "perfectly successful" story.
IF it were me, I would pursue the following options:
1) Pick up a totaled Pathy with a 5 speed and swap in the manual! (Yes, I hate automatics. And now you know why!)
2) Pick up a used "known good" factory sealed and original automatic from a parted out Pathy.
Good luck! This is a difficult situation that I think all of us have gone through at least once in our life.
-
How big is the plenum on top of the TBI?
You could be getting some kind of a pressure pulse resonance in the system. Try disconnecting the piping right at the plenum. If the problem goes away, then it may be as simple as changing the sizes/volumes of different pipes to move the harmonic frequency to somewhere it doesn't hinder performance.
And I would also like to see pictures if possible.
-
Oh, does the antenna motor seem to run quite a bit longer than normal before it shuts off? If so, that confirms it.
The motor normally shuts off when the antenna reaches either end of its travel. But if the rope is broken and does not reach an end, it eventually "times out" and shuts itself off.
-
I think the Venge hit the nail on the proverbial head. The "rope" in my 240SX used to break every 8 years or so. I attributed it to the hot, dry climate here. Plastic gets baked and brittle pretty quickly.
The rope is like a very long "rack" gear. It is wound into a pretty tight coil (spiral) inside the motor unit when the antenna retracts, and then is pushed up into the antenna mast when the antenna extends. Flexing from straight to spiral and back several times a day leads to eventual failure. Thankfully it is quite easy to repair!
-
Did you check the wiring coming off the alternator? Maybe when it was changed the wire was damaged or not tightened enough and has come a bit loose....
I would recommend having the alternator tested before giving up on it. The two most likely culprits I see are:
1) Alternator going intermittent (could be alternator or it's wires)
2) Bad/intermittent ground up behind the dash somewhere.
It would be very interesting and informative to semi-permanently attach a remote voltmeter and monitor it. Like take a piece of speaker wire and attach one lead to each post of the battery and run the other end and attach the leads of a handheld multimeter to it.
If the battery voltage is dropping by more than 1/2 volt when dash light comes on and stereo acts up, it indicates the alternator or its wiring.
If the voltage remains constant, it is in the vehicle wiring between battery and dash.
-
Good morning!
No updates... It's sitting in my garage waiting to be played with. Been a little busy! I bought Ben's (transworldmoto) '88 last Thursday, and then we have been re-roofing the house. Haven't sat down, let alone played with any toys for close to a week now.... And after moving and nailing shingles for 10-12 hours per day ALL weekend, I'm too sore and sunburned to much care about touching anything.
-
Not sure how the "brain" works on the Nissan, but here's an experience on my TBI'd '87 Chevy.
I swapped the wheezer 305 for a honking HT383 engine. As the new TBI and chip were not here yet, I put the old TBI and computer in hoping it would be close enough to get her running so I could move it.
It fired up OK, but didn't idle real well for a few minutes. After about 10 minutes, it smoothed out and idled OK. The computer was adjusting itself.
Then I discovered I had not hooked the BIG vacuum line to the MC booster. That made for one HECK of a vacuum leak! So I connected it and started it again. Now it would not idle at all. It would just stumble and die. So I kept her running at about 500 to 1000 rpm with the throttle and let it drop down to idle, almost die, and then open her up again. Continued for about 5 minutes, then let her cool and repeat. After 3 cycles, the computer had readjusted itself and idled well again.
So I proved the ECU in my TBI'd '87 Chevy DID learn and remap itself to some degree. Maybe the Nissan will as well? If the battery was stone cold dead, it had to revert to the "default" map that is not as optimal as it needs to be.
Please continue to let us know the outcome!
-
Yup, what they said. Any filter will work.
For all intents and purposes, you can make decisons assuming synthetic oil is nothing more than an ultra-ultra-refined oil with far superior additive packages.
No, that's not exactly what it is, but it is how it behaves.
-
You have good answers on the trans and radiator. I support the swap in junkyard trans and buy a new radiator.
Regarding the AC: Those Wal-Mart conversion kits are absolute garbage and are more likely to destroy your compressor than work. Heed the lessons thousands of folks have learned... Improper conversion will more than likely destroy your compressor within a year or so.
The problem is the R134a itself and its incompatibility with any decent lubricating oils. R134a is an absolutely horrid refrigerant. It has less heat transfer capacity, and it will not properly "carry" lubricants. R12 systems use mineral oils, which are outstanding lubricants and the existing compressor is designed to have it present. The problem is that R134a is NOT compatible with mineral oil - it will not carry it properly, so you end up with inadequate lubrication of the compressor and it eventually dies.
To properly convert, you MUST do the following:
- Eliminate ALL traces of mineral oil in system.
- Refill with the crappy but the best available PAG type oil and pray it will lubricate your compressor well enough to survive. Remember, the compressor was designed to have mineral oil lubricant, not PAG, so if it dies, please don't blame it, the designer, or the manufacturer. It's kind of like using Wesson cooking oil in your engine. They may both be oils, but they are not the same!
- If seals are not the R134a compatible types, they must be replaced.
- All AC hoses must be of the nylon barrier kind. Most standard R12 hoses are semi-permeable to R134a, and some components of it will pass through the hoses. Some later R12 hoses are barrier style. If the hose says "barrier" on it, they can be used after cleaning.
- Put up with the inherant lower output. R134a just doesn't carry as much heat away as R12. The system will only be about 80% as powerful. Systems designed for R134a are designed with this in mind and have larger capacity.
And yes, you will have MANY people tell you otherwise, including some self proclaimed "experts". My advice is to ignore them, they are not as knowledgable as you (or they) wish. If you want to pursue, please do your OWN research. After all, you're the one who'll have to pay for a new compressor! There is a huge amount of data on the internet. Here's a place to start:
swaybars
in General Forums
Posted
And ya'all need to shush up... I'm busy on my latest re-invention here....
I think I'll call it a "re-wheel".
Fixed that for ya....