90seven
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Posts posted by 90seven
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Steering Rack bushings?
I had this same problem with my steering wheel. When I turned left the wheel slanted left but when I turned hard-right, thew wheel would straighten out until the next left turn. When I crawled under, I coulded find where it could've slipped off to, only to realize that the little pieces of junk I was brushing away was actually the disinigrated bushing. The other piece was in good condition but I replaced both anyway. Pretty pricey for a piece of rubber. Its a dealership part. But then again, IMO, you should always buy OEM boots and bushings.
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Aren't the brakes self adjusting? Just put hit the brakes in reverse.. and viola! Adjusted..
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the springs on the rear drums do not need to be replaced.
..and setting your rear parking brake.
Most places sell the rear drum replacement kit that comes with all the springs. Even if they don't need replacement, I usually just do them anyway. How often am I going to open up that drum? Probably not for a long while. When's the last time you changed your rear brakes anyway? The rears usually last a lot longer that the fronts.
I remember when I was hammering the crap out of the drum waiting for it to come loose, only to find out that I still had the parking brake engaged from when I jacked it up. What a fool.
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what is the back spacing and stock offset of stock 15" alloy tire?
The stock alloy wheel specs are 4" Backspacing and +20 Offset.
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yup, its for the alarm. its the only switch in the entire security system that, when open, wont prevent you from arming the security... which is why you dont notice a difference with it dangling... (you cant arm the alarm with the trunk open for example, but you can arm it with the hood open just fine)
But, but, but.... The factory alarm will be set off as soon as the timer expires, when the alarm is supposed to arm. Usually around 30 seconds or so. I was wondering why my alarm was going off every few minutes when I brought it home from a shop. I figured out that the mechanic had placed the hood prop in the wrong place forcing the hood upward and not fully allowing it to be depressed.
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3.75 is what I have on my wheels (15x8). Rubbing isn't too bad, I had to trim about 4 inches from the bottom of the inner wheel well to not rub during turns. No biggie.
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For those of you with Warns installed, are you using the Warn bolts that came with the kits, or have you used high grade bolts?
*Note: It is recommended by most to use high grade bolts in place of the studs and lock nuts provided by Warn, due to the number of people who have reported that the original Warn studs brake over time.
I'll be getting these installed in the next week and was wondering if I should look for replacement bolts. I'm going to have 4WheelParts install them. I don't have the time, nor the tools. (The horror stories with the dust cap, make me worried that I'll give up
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I've had my Viper Alarm/Remote Starter for about 2 years now, and I'm happy. Every once in a while the stock alrm goes off, but that's only if you don't lock the car right away. As long as you arm the Viper before the stock alarm arms you're good... I think.
The issue with the reotee starters installed on a manual is one thing, but what about installing the remote starter on a vehicle with a chipped key as like my 2001 Alty. Do the later model R50s have chipped keys?
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Check your hood pin switch. Sometimes that's a problem.
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I beleive this is refered to the "death wobble" as I read earlier. I'm experiencing this as well. I would have added the link, but it's a bit difficult using my Blackjack II. I'm sure you can find it or someone will be nice enough to find it for you.
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Silverstars are great. I noticed a huge difference. Very white compared to stock bulbs. I love them. Luminix will be my next bulbs though.
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Hafa Adai.
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Just don't hose a whole can through the intake and then try to start it.AMEN
I did it once....killed the battery twice before it finally started. start vehicle, Killed battery, remove from vehicle and charge for 5 hours, re-install battery, attempt to start vehicle again.....Now repeatI did that too. I only had the Check Engine light come on for about 2 days.
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Remember to twist and NOT pull.
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Due to gas prices these days I started letting my wife take the Pathy to work since she works closer to home than I do. I now drive her Altima.
One her way to work yesterday she stopped by Cheveron on Blue Diamond and Rainbow in Las Vegas and someone had approached her when he saw a sticker I had on it.
She was explaining that a man had asked her if it was a " '97 " and she was confused. LOL
Just wondering who you were. Where do you stay?
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Unless you're driving your Pathy on race track or speeding down the Lions Back, your stock rotors should be sufficient. As said, ODO will be off a minor bit. Other than that, its really is unoticable. I, personally, am going to revert back to stock wheels and 30s for the sake of better fuel economy.
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Just for comparison, my VG33 with 140k miles doesnt burn ANY oil at all. I change every 3k and the oil level is always in the same spot as when i finished my last oil change.
Same here except my Pathy is running around 170K. 3.75 quarts in and out. I guess the VGs are just that damn good.
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You're speedo will be off rouhly 2-3MPH slower than traveling speed at 60MPH.
OR
When I drive 1 mile in my Altima my Pathy only shows .9 miles. I know that much.
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4x4parts.com has your body lift, 2" or 3". The girl at the counter either got the wrong year or had NO clue what she was talking about. All Pathfinders from 87-95 are built on a ladder frame. 96-ups ARE unibody, however.
96-2004 are unibody. Nissan returned to body-on-frame for 2005 but soon going back to uni-body. *Sigh*
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Hmm... a lower price.
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I just got my new rims in today. I got some soft 8's 15 x 8. I took a chance having an 02 r50 I didn't mount tires on them yet because I wanted to test fit them first. When I put on the fronts the rims will spin, but just barely scrape the calipers on the inside rim twice per revolution. There is some corrosion build up on the outside of the caliper could I angle grind a hair off the edge of the caliper with no worries? Or do you think I just didn't tighten all the lugs up enough. I put masking tape on the caliper to see where it scratches and it doesn't even rip the tape just barely rubs it on the outside edge of the caliper. oh and the wheels have 4"b.s.
Not really sure why the wheels rub, the 4" backspacing is the stock backspacing. Then again, the wheel is an inch wider than stock. My wheels are 15x8 but I have it with a 3.75" backspacing which pushes it outward. Rub is non-existant. I don't think it would be much of a problem if its not that bad of a rub.
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Seems I'm the only islander here,oh well.
I'm from Guam, but I now live in Las Vegas.
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I do what I know and what I have the equipment for along side my the Hanes Manual. For everything else, I find a mechanic.
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P.S. Any owners in Vegas?
<--Vegas resident!!
What octane gas do you use?
in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
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87 octane is fine. Try adding a can of RESTORE to your oil at oil changes.