dududuckling
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Posts posted by dududuckling
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Yep, its the GL4 for sure.
Adam, what you said is true. The vehicle has to be COMPLETELY stopped before I can shift to the first gear. Even then, there are two possibilities that might happen.
Firstly, the lever might not go into the first gear and I'm guessing the teeth in the transmission didn't align properly. In this case, I've to bring it back to neutral, let go and re-depress the clutch fully, then shift it back to the first gear or sometime I just start from the second gear before getting honked at. Secondly, the lever might go to the first gear, grind, and kick back to neutral. In this case, I just hit the clutch a little longer (count to one thousand), then bring it back to the first gear or sometime just start from the second gear again. The probability of both scenarios happening is less than 10% - used to happen more often in the past, I guess I've changed my driving habit.
I haven't checked any of the clutch/trans fluid level. I'll bring it to Nissan in the spring and get the fluids replaced and checked for leakage since I don't have the skill nor the space to do it right now.
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How often do you replace the fluid? Sounds like you have worn out all the friction modifiers and burning up the syncros.
Crap!!! Last time I replaced the fluid was when I replaced the clutch and the transmission at 132,000 miles. Gonna do it again when spring comes. I'm hoping there's still warranty since I got them brand new from Nissan. Now that I'm used to the condition, I just hit the clutch early before the light turns green and keep the cabin pressure to make sure the smell doesn't get inside (Close the vent and turn on the a/c or heater and let the air recirculate within the cabin). I don't know what I did wrong, I don't even ride on the clutch or down-shift unless I really have to - hate doing the leg workout unnecessarily, hahaha... And I've only seen a couple of trails since got them brand new.
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Replaced the outer release bearing (I think that's what Nissan said) at 100,000 miles.
Replaced the transmission at 137,000 miles and now it starts to give me problems again a 162,000 miles. Not sure if its the clutch/transmission. When I shift from neutral to the first gear, I've to fully depress the clutch and count up to 1 sec. before shifting the lever, otherwise it'll grind and jerk back to neutral. And then comes the smell of burning oil in the cabin when the transmission works hard (I.e. on a hot sunny day in traffic or after being on the highway for an hour). There's no leak at all. I probably have to get the trans fluid changed or just wheel an A/T.
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Did a little search and came across this
http://www.ramsey.com/automotive/docs/Grille%20Guard%20Brush%20Guard%20update.pdf
http://www.ramsey.com/automotive/mounting_systems.html
They probably mounted a universal brush guard on the pathy with a winch on it.
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Same thing goes on mine. There's one occasion when I started the pathy, the dial for the rear wiper was in off position, but for some reason, it was going at full speed - scared the crap out of me. And it would occasionally get stuck when the weather's cold. Had to switch the dial a couple of time to bring it back to its original position, otherwise it'd get stuck in the window.
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This is what I can dig out from my desktop. I had the air intake rerouted so that it sucked air from the back of the air box instead of the bottom, but everything else under the hood remained untouched. If you need more pictures, I can always take a good one tomorrow morning when the sun's up.
I'm not sure if its what you're looking for. Hope it helps.
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Just came across this topic and its interesting to see what everyone's doing out there. I'm a sophomore in transportation design and will only be useful to the pathy if Nissan decides to employ me when i graduate
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I think it also saved my rear bumper from being ripped off off-road, as that hitch took a beating off many rocks!!
x2 on what Pezzy said. I was happy that my hitch hit the rocks than if it was my plastic bumper. I've used the hitch to do a recovery and I think it works great.
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interested in where, and how much you spent, on the hid conversion kits
Got the fog's HID from China for $50 incl. shipping and headlight's HID from a HID shop online for $150. The results are the same. Both items are plug and play
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I'm most likely to be the guy that Simon wanna fire up his off-road lights on, hahaha... I installed HIDs on the headlights and fog lights.
The headlights have a 55W, 6000K, Hi/Lo (High beam halogen, low beam hid in a single bulb), H4 bulb. The fog lights have a 35W, 8000K, H3 bulb. I didn't modify the headlights and fog lights. They contain factory halogen reflectors,. The HID produces a lot of glare towards oncoming drivers. When you install HIDs on normal halogen housings, you'll see two bright spots (the aim from the left and right bulbs) and another bright spot where the glares intersect. The halogen housings are meant to spread the halogen beams that are dimmer than Xenon. While you might blind the oncoming drivers, the glare that bounces off enable you to see road signs and road side more clearly. The HIDs are better suited for projector housings that have cut offs (little to no glare at all above the cut off). You don't piss anyone off and will be able to see the road very clearly as all the beams are focused on the road. But you won't be able to see the signs, etc as brightly.
My fix to this problem is to aim the lights real low - lower than usual especially since the pathy has a higher stance than most sedan. I've driven right behind cops and around the street with the HIDs for the past one year or so. In my opinion, with all the reflected glares that bounce off the road (since the beams are focused real low), you'll still be able to see farther and wider than the halogen lights. As well, after hitting a couple of trails and have mud stains in my headlights, the beams are light brown instead of cool white, hahaha...
One problem I've encountered with the HIDs are that it requires ballasts. The conversion is not always perfect and when I turn the lights on, 99% of the time, one of the lights will not light up. I've to turn it on and off a couple of times or use the high beams for a bit and switch it back to low beam, then the HIDs will kick in. My friends who install HIDs in their vehicles also encounter the same problem, even after using the relays. Its no big deal if you're in the parking lot, but on the road, I'll be looking for reflections off someone's rear bumper. And you might have electrical connections when you hit mudholes (i.e. my fog lights). They short circuit themselves after a deep water crossing. The bulbs aren't burnt and they are still working. But once I turn them off, they will not light up until I turn them on couple hours later.
Hope that helps,
Andrew
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Hello guys im a newbie! even though im ojn my phone, i did searched for headlight adjustment and found nothing. I looked and looked at the headlite for the adjustment screw and nothing. can anyone tell me how to adjust them? or could it b the bulb itself?
Hi, if u look closely behind the headlight, u see two circular items that look like an old-school coke bottle cap. They are low profile, so its kinda hard to spot from the top. Those things are mounted vertically, which means they are parallel to the radiator and perpendicular to the ground. Anyway, you'll need a long and thin phillips screwdriver of some sort to rotate it. One of the "bottle cap" is for vertical adjustment (up or down) and the other one is for horizontal adjustment (left or right). For the up or down, if u turn clockwise, ull go up and anti-clockwise to go down. I don't remember about the horizontal adjustment though. I'll take pics. later today to clarify things.
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Cool! I live at Rochester Hills and I attend College for Creative Studies in Detroit. I occasionally visit my friends at East Lansing on the weekend. And nope, no Cubans...
The pathy:
255/70/16 BFG MTs
2" A/C Lift
Fleurys' Front Skidplate
Front and rear recovery points
And that's pretty much all I've got for offroading, hahaha...
Here are pictures of my pathy:
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3385294
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Hi... I just moved down to Michigan from Toronto. Am I the only NPORA member in the area? I go to school in Detroit and I'm probably the only person driving a lifted import.
Andrew
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Thanks for the replies, guys! I'm not sure where I'm gonna be after I graduate, I might either be working in the States or Canada or go back to Asia. That's still three more years to go. I'm still gathering information and reading up on stuff, so there'll be no surprises when I go across the US/Canadian customs. For now, I intend to keep the vehicle registered as Canadian and return the vehicle to Canada once a year as required in the declaration form. I have Canadian relatives who live in Burlington, Ontario. I intend to use their address for permanent residence of the vehicle.
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Hi guys,
I applied for college in the States and got accepted. I'm moving down to Detroit in September. Prior to this, I've been in Canada as an international student and own a Canadian pathy. I've been thinking of ways of bringing it over to the States for personal use. I have read stuff on NHTSA.gov and am aware of the HS-7 declaration form. With respect to my immigration status, I'll be in the US as an international student and will be as a tourist in Canada. Here are my questions
As a non-resident, can I bring the vehicle over to the States and have it registered as an American vehicle (aka importation)? Or will it be much better to have it registered as a Canadian vehicle and use it in the States? Based on what I've read, since I'm a non-immigrant in the States, I can bring in the Canadian pathy for personal use and have to bring it out of the States in less than a year.
At the border crossing, do I have to hand in the HS-7 form each time I pass the US custom (into the US)? And what happens when I go over to the Canadian side (into Canada)?
Is it possible to get an agency to import the vehicle and settle the paperwork for me?
I have very little experience in this matter. My time is running short as orientation starts on September 1st and I've yet to apply for US study permit (although I've got the i-20 form). If u have any experience/ knowledge in this matter, I really appreciate ur input! I don't wanna have to end up selling the pathy away because its been a great vehicle for the past three years and there have been so much done to it.
Thank you once again! I really really appreciate it! Have a great day,
Andrew
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If you want really good lighting, you can always get HID conversion kit from ebay, cheap stuff and made in china, lol... 55W/H4/Hi-lo/6000K bulb is all you need. I'm not sure if its legal in your state. I aim the light lower so it doesn't blind the oncoming traffic. Even though the focus of the lights will then be about 20m in front of you (you'll see two bright patches of light on the road), the overall result is still brighter and shines further than a stock halogen setup. Depending on your budget, you can even retrofit the headlight housing with projector setup that goes well with HID and doesn't blind people at all because it has cut off. If you decide to keep to stock halogen bulbs, I've heard good reviews about PIAA bulbs. Its your own preference.
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I came across Shadow Hawk company in duPont Registry. It manufactures vehicle, which allows for suspension travels between -2" (for changing the tire without using the jack) and 44" (to run over another vehicle). So you can have lowered profile on the street and go over rocks in Moab, hahahaha...
1100HP with average +20MPG diesel-powered engine...
http://shadowhawkvehicles.com/
On a side note, I've nothing against lowered 4x4. I think each vehicle on the street is unique.
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That snorkel is pretty much one giant POS.
Ask GPG... It's a waste of money.
Hahaha... I read about that, but wasn't so sure, thats why I asked him to read on.
You need 3.75" backspacing so that the inner, top corner of the tire will clear the struts. The lower the number, the more the tire will stick out, so you'll be fine. But I'm not sure whether it will rub any other part of the vehicle if the tires stick out too much. If you gonna fit 33's with lift, there's a thread about it too.
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found all but snorkel, suspension and exhaust. how much does suspension cost?? and where can i find a snorkel??
If you plan to lift it up mildly, you can go with either the AC or OME lift.
If you wanna go with the AC lift, here's the website:
https://www.4x4parts.com/catalog/pathfinder-19962004-pathfinder-c-435_437_341_8.html
The overall cost will depend on the struts/shocks combination that you get plus shipping and labor. There are threads about lifting the pathfinder.
With stock height, you can probably fit 31's without much problem. But if you do the lift, you'll gain about 2"-3" and you can fit 32's or even 33's. The extra ground clearance is always a plus on the rocks and in the mud, in my opinion.
As for snorkel, this is all I can find so far:
https://www.4x4parts.com/catalog/font-colorredr50-pathfinder-snorkelfont-p-5266.html
I'm not sure if it will fit nicely or if the installation is going to be easy. I think there are threads about this one as well.
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I never actually thought of that. That's a good point, Simon.
Without the lift, I assume he's gonna fit 31's?Just to add to the KM2, I find the road wear is pretty decent too. I've had mine for 50,000 km (193,000-243,000) and the current tread depth is 10/32".
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ah i see. Wish i had a 3.5 so i could do the same. With the 3.3L, i can only floor it against garbage trucks and buses, otherwise its a guaranteed loss.
Im willing to bet that the 99 Pathfinder / QX4 was the slowest SUV sold (in north america) that year.
You people and the VQ, hahaha...
Like Fueler, I'm happy enough if I can race a garbage truck/ bus in the city or maybe adamzan's pathy if hes not looking, hahaha... With the standard transmission, the first gear goes up to like 25km/h before upshift, 2nd gear to 45, 3rd or 4th gear at 60km/h depending on my driving mood. The cycle repeats at every traffic light and my arm is sore by the time I hit the highway, hahaha... I realize anything above 3500rpm doesn't give me any more power.
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I have the KM2. Its great for crawling on wet rocks, not so good in the mud. I find the sips are too close to each other and it always turns slick somehow. But that's completely my personal opinion. Have you looked at DC Crusher? Hahaha... Looks like it can pedal you through the mud or water, hahaha... Its your own preference after all,
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What about the narrow TSL tires? My friend has a set on his xterra, 33's. Did well in the mud, clean really well, and didn't have to trim too much
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Looks good, what lamps do you have on the roof basket? Vision X?
4X4 parts.com
in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
Posted
I think he's got 1.5" spacer as well for the front, the rear is stock