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dududuckling

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Posts posted by dududuckling

  1. Thanks guys! Crusher is cool, but I just read reviews saying that they wear out really bad on the road. Someone posted that at 12,000 km and the uneven wear becomes visible. I guess I'll stick to the KM2 then. Now I only have to decide between 255/85/16 and 285/75/16. Gonna go to the tire shop to see the price difference, and if they'll let me test fit. Thanks so far!

  2. Hi,

     

    I'm in the market to buy 33's MTs for the R50. The pathy has 2" AC lift and ARB bumper, which should help with tire-bumper clearance. After seeing Alexrex and 01silvapathy's R50 (before he put the SFD), I'm more inclined to get 33's for two reasons: it has 1/2" more clearance than 32's and if I install SFD in the future, I already have the right tire size. I'm not gonna put 35's coz although its awesome, I commute long distance on the highway everyday (~70 miles).

     

    As for 33's, I'm torn between: 255/85/16 KM2 (33x10.5") and 285/75/16 Crusher (33x11.5").

     

    The main reason I like the DC Crusher is because of the skull side wall, lol... They claimed its functional, but I think the Crusher will look much hotter than the pathy after I put three coats of tire shine on it. And the narrowest 33's that they have is 285/75/16. As the tire has wider footprint, I hope to get better traction in wet, slippery road and slick rocks. The bad side of the Crusher is I'm not sure if it'll tuck into the rear wheel well when fully flexed, without kicking out the fender flare. Its not big of a deal on my daily commute, but I don't wanna come back from the trail with missing fender flare. I know 01silvapathy stuffed 285/75/16 BFG ATs in the rear. But the Crusher has more aggressive lugs and might be wider than the ATs.

     

    This brings me to the narrower KM2. The 255/85/16 has the same footprint as stock tire (255/65/16), and I'm pretty confident it will tuck in easily. I intend to have the same set up as 01silvapathy... 16x8, 6x5.5", 4.25" backspace with 1.5" front spacers and nothing at the back. I also expect the KM2 to get better MPG, braking distance, while putting less stress on the front end components... am I right/wrong?

     

    I've had KM2 in the past and I like the way it handles on the highway. Its not that great in the rain and snow, but its perfect for the summer. Does anyone have experience with the DC Crusher? Also, for those that stay in the US, is Discount Tire the cheapest store to get MTs from?

     

    Any input is much appreciated... I'm hoping to get them before the Badland event.

     

    Thanks,

     

    Andrew

  3.  

    do you know, i STILL have you on my yahoo messenger from, oh, 3 or 4 years back?? lol

     

    Huh? You sure its me and not someone else? Lol...

     

    Anyway, if I can make it to this event for sure, I'll PM both Jason and OldSlowReliable for possible convoy from Michigan. I definitely like the idea of staying in one piece, hahaha...

     

    Thanks for organizing!!! :aok: :aok: :aok:

  4. Hi Slick,

     

    I'm interested, but I can't confirm my attendance until sometime mid June.

     

    What kind of trail will you guys be hitting? Anything for my stock R50? Any deep water crossing or are there bypasses? And I assume wheeling will happen on Friday and Saturday, then pack up on Sunday?

     

    I'm coming from Rochester Hills, MI. Looks like its gonna be six hours drive for me. Pathy got a 2" lift with front skid plate. Hope to get 255/85/16 KM2 and mid skid plate by then. Will I be the only one with the R50?

     

    http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3385294/2000-nissan-pathfinder

     

    Thanks,

     

    Andrew

  5. Tyler, thanks for the info.! I'll check them out,

     

    Phantom, any noise with the pads and do you get a lot of brake dust?

     

    Yeah, I've been wondering the same about rear drums too.

  6. I need to replace the front brake discs and pads for the pathy. Does anyone have recommendation as to which brand I should go for? Should I stick with the OEM one?

     

    I'm concerned about its performance in a stop-and-go traffic on a hot summer day and while wheeling in the mud and rock. The OEM one has not given me any problem, but I wonder if I'll get better stopping distance by going with after market brands. Currently, I'm leaning towards the EBC yellow stuff brake pads and the slotted, vented discs because they look pretty.

     

    Thanks,

     

    Andrew

  7. Are you getting the 35W or 55W ballast?

     

    I've the 55W, 6000K HB2/9003 Hi Lo. The high beam is halogen and its really useless. You can't see anything with it. Knowing HID is way brighter than halogen, I aimed mine slightly downward and I can still see better than having a regular halogen aimed properly. The beam pattern is wider and further. I've never gotten flashed from anyone or been in trouble with the cops in both Canada and the States. I'm thinking of switching to 8000K. Having 6000K and mud stains in the headlight give you brown HID (no more nice white light). You won't notice with halogen, but you'll see the difference with HID. And when it comes to HID, I believe its all personal preference.

  8. Can you help shed some light on the "too much BS" issue? If I remember correctly, I need at least 3.75 and most people need some form of wheel spacer as well.... why would 4.5" be a bad thing? :scratchhead:

     

     

    Regarding the backspacing, the lesser the number, the more the wheel will stick out and so does the tire. So 3.75" backspacing will stick out more than a 4.5" wheel, and a 4.5" backspacing will stick out more than the stock wheel. AC says that minimum of 3.75" is required; ideally they want you to get 3.75" backspacing or lower, so your tire will clear the struts for sure.

     

    With the R50, the thing to keep in mind when upsizing tires will be tire-to-strut clearance. With the stock wheel, if I'm not mistaken, approximately 0.5" of the tire is right under the strut. Its not a big deal if you keep the tire size stock, which is 30". But as you go up to 32's or 33's, the tires will rub the struts.

     

    I personally think that you might still need wheel spacer if you get the 4.5" backspace wheel. But I don't think you'll need any with 3.5" backspace wheels or lower (correct me if I'm wrong). You can always go with stock rims and use spacers up front, then stuff 33's like 01silvapathy. There are lotsa options, just remember that you want about 4" or less backspacing, so the tires will stick out more and clear the strut and you're good to go... but not way out that you can't turn or the rear tires hit the fender flares when flexed.

  9. It could be that the new bases weren't good. When you reinsert the original bulb, did you use the new or the old base? I used the old bases for all the LEDs. And you'll need 4 LEDs to cover the cluster.

     

    Someone might have their input here?

     

    Here's some readings if you haven't come across them:

     

    http://forums.nicoclub.com/how-to-replace-instrument-cluster-lamps-t461756.html

    http://forums.nicoclub.com/changed-the-dash-lights-t368004.html

    http://forums.nicoclub.com/almost-completed-01-pathfinder-stereo-upgrade-includes-avic-z2-t350117.html

  10. Were you trying to change the warning lights in the cluster or simply the background speedo? I managed to change the background light (around 4 bulbs, if I'm not mistaken), but things got messed up and weren't successful when trying to replace the warning lights into LEDs.

     

    Did you get the right LEDs? I think its #74, if I'm not mistaken.

     

    Did you damage the base while changing into the LED bulb? When you put the stock bulb into the base, does it come loose?

    Did you damage the original bulb while removing it? I crushed a couple of bulb while removing it from the base. Can you try inserting a different base with working bulb into the same slot to make sure its the base that's damaged and not the slot?

     

    Be sure to have the pathy turned off when replacing the bulbs. I read on NICO forum that some guy tried to replace it and the cluster went smoking.

     

    Just my suggestions,

  11. Year: 2000 SE

    Lift : AC 2" coils

    Wheels : Stock OEM wheels 16x7" (no wheel adapter)

    Tires : Michelin X-Ice 265/70/16 for winter and BFG KM2 255/75/16 for summer

     

    Notes: For both winter and summer setups, there's no rubbing on struts or inner wheel well when turning at full lock or bouncing at any angle. I had the BFGs before I installed the lift and ARB bumper, that's why they were that small and no rubbing either.

     

    PA300359.jpg

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