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dududuckling

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Posts posted by dududuckling

  1. I have 285/75/16 (or 32.8x11") Wrangler MTR on 3.75", 16x8 pro comp wheels. It also has 2" ac lift.

     

    When the rear flexes, the tire gets stuffed in and kicks the fender flare out. That's a guarantee.

    As for the front, during full turn, front tires rub the fender flares. Little trimming is required on the front fender flares around the bottom corner. You won't even notice when looking at it from the side. Since you have the NX spacer, you might not have to trim as much.

    Regarding tire-to-strut clearance, there's like 0.75-1" distance between them. I'm thinking on going with 305/70/16 (still a 32.8x12") next summer and see if it clears the struts.

  2. As long as your intake is not under water, I think you're good. I was in the same situation, muffler under water, water coming in passenger side, and I turned the engine off. I turned it on no problem. Boat engine starts underwater afterall?

  3. I have the same exact codes for about a year now. The 0325 is knock sensor, it doesn't affect us - I believe every pathfinder owner has this code? The 1491 is vcv bypass valve. I got a 3.3L with manual transmission. Truck's been fine, no loss of power as long as I'm aware. No hesitation or whatsoever... When I'm in 4th and 5th gear, I do get some "noise" between 3200 and 3500 rpm, then it goes away. It doesn't do that on 1st, 2nd, and 3rd gear. I noticed this around the same time 1491 popped up last year. I'm not sure if its related. I normally shift between 3000 and 4000 rpm when the power kicks in.

  4. Hard to believe that 1/2" of BS would keep the rear tires from hitting the flares. :-(

     

    01Silvapathy is right. 4.25" is the way to go in the rear. I've got 2" AC, 33's on 3.75"BS. The rear fender flares were the first to go when those tires flexed. If u don't live in rust belt area, u can always take those flares off hahaha... They don't do much good anyway except from looking pretty

     

    IMG01263-20110625-1426.jpg

     

    265f8e6e.jpg

     

    And if I did things over, I would have gotten all 5 rims at once - I still have a stock spare rim with a 33 on it. So, if I blow a front tire, I have to technically change 2 tires instead of just one = lame.

     

    I may purchase a new rim soon, just waiting on a sale.

     

    Rick I'm with you on that one, hahaha... If I get a flat, the plan is to move the spare tire to the rear, then swap the rear tire for the flat one up front

     

    And I think the Dick Cepek/ Mickey Thompson tires are smaller than the others. Like 31" = 30" BFGs or something

  5.  

    I just priced out Toyo Open Country T/As for it, 265/70/16s, at $630 for all 4 installed. That equates out to be a 31x10.43 so they will fit before I do the lift, just want to be extremely clear on this?

     

    Welcome to the club! Finally someone else in Michigan with an R50. I'm in Rochester Hills, MI.

     

    265/70/16 should fit just fine without the lift. Biggest concern is whether or not the tire, in that stock rim, will clear the strut mount. And the answer is yes. I run 265/70/16 in the winter on the same wheel as yours. Tire-to-strut clearance is about an inch. I've 2" suspension lift, but it doesn't change the distance between tire and strut. Depending on how much it sags, you might rub the fender flares during full turn. But you can always trim the edges. With 2" lift, 3.75" backspace wheels or 1.5" wheel spacer, you can run 33's or 285/75/16.

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