dududuckling
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Posts posted by dududuckling
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Thanks B
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Yep, that sounds like the game plan for now. I wanna try different vehicles or buy newer ones, but leasing/financing means I'll be in debt for the next 3-5 years, which is not good for a recent graduate like me. So for now, I'm looking at 2002-2004 manual. Once you drive a stickshift, you don't wanna go back to Auto haha... but the 2004 platinum edition interior looks so appealing, I can wheel in luxury haha... Latest pictures of the pathfinder
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Thanks for the replies.
I currently live in Santa Barbara, CA. From what I've read, to register an out of state vehicle, I have to get it passed safety and emission. Unfortunately, I don't have any out-of-state addresses.
It is a 2000 Pathfinder with 3.3L, manual, 370,000 km (230,500 mi), 6" SFD pushing 35's. I get 12-14 mpg on average. For the past eight years, it has lived in Toronto and Michigan. I never intended to keep the truck for this long, and so I did not rustproof the truck (which I kind of regret). Front passenger inner fender has a rust hole, which is covered by the Nissan recall program, and the driver side is showing sign of rust.
At this point, I'm open for:
Option A - fix the pathfinder, get it registered, and drive it until the wheels fall off
Option B - sell the accessories and the truck for partsOption C - buy newer 2001-2004 R50 and transfer the parts over
Option D - hopefully Nissan will deem the rust to be of safety concern and buy the truckMy conservative estimate for fixing the truck (t-belt, oil pan, brakes, ABS & CEL, body works) to be in the region of $5000. At this point, hopefully, I have a California-registered vehicle and fully-functional, which may develop future rust issues or perhaps mechanical? I don't know too many pathfinders with more than 230,000 miles and still going strong. Will the powertrain be reliable enough at that point? I have also been looking at other 2001-2004 R50s from non rust-belt areas. But finding a non-rust, manual, 4wd R50 is really difficult. And the ones in California are mostly 2wd.
As with the accessories, they will either go up for sale or get transferred if I get new pathfinder:
ARB bumper, audio system (pioneer h/u with memphis audio amp, sub, speakers), optima yellow top (one-year old), pathfinder rubber floormats, and bug/side deflectors, trailer hitch/shackles for rear recovery, and aftermarket (blacked out) headlamp/ tail lamps.
I'm just trying to make an informed decision because letting go of the pathy, after eight years and all that good times shared, is a hard thing to do. I still have until August when the MI license plate expires.
This is to seal the deal on being a rust bucket... I drove it on the Bonneville Salt Flats, UT
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Hi all,
I need your opinion on the pathfinder reliability. I am at a crossroad between keeping and fixing the pathfinder, or selling it away.
I purchased the 2000 Pathfinder in Toronto back in 2006. I moved to Michigan with the Pathfinder in 2010 (imported it into the US). I have traveled with the Pathfinder as far northeast as Quebec (in 2009), down south to Florida (in 2013), then moved out west to California in September 2014. It has seen plenty of trails in Ontario and Michigan ORV, as well as two of my ex-es, and three college crushes (I don't know how this is relevant), and shared many good times on the trails and at coffee meets.
At 370,000 km and KBB value between $600 and $2500, the pathfinder needs a lot of work to get it licensed in California. To pass emission, I have to fix the CEL issues (0325 knock sensor, 1448 evap canisters, and 0440 vcv bypass). Then to pass safety, I have to fix the rust on the inner and outer fenders, spring perch (maybe?), rocker panels, etc. Timing belt is due, oil pan, brakes, and tires need replacement.Should I keep it or should I sell it? If I decide to fix it, how reliable is the engine/transmission? Will it last another 160,000 km without major issues? The pathy has 35's on SFD.
I don't know much about mechanics, nor do I have the space to work on it. And with that, the cost can quickly add up.
Thanks -
1989 Daihatsu Taft/Rocky, 4-speed diesel
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I'm 4.5 hours south, is it still the bay area? I just moved to Santa Barbara, CA.
The R50 is currently in pieces, needed fixes here and there
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Hi,
Not sure where to put this topic - I have recently moved to Santa Barbara, CA and need to get the truck registered. I have 3 check engine lights relating to knock sensor (0325), and emission (0440 and 1448, if I'm not mistaken), and an ABS light ON. My truck is also a rust bucket that needs fixes on rear fenders, inner fenders, rocker panels. I figure that the fix is gonna cost more than the truck is worth, but I've had good times in the pathy. Been through some of the worst snow storms in Detroit and Toronto, went to as far as Quebec and Miami, and drove here from Michigan, and its been on trails in Canada.
If anyone can recommend good repair shops in California, its much appreciated. I don't mind the drive as long as its a job well done. Thanks.Andrew
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I'm driving with abs light on for now, but I'll spray when I have the time to change the sensor...
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Thanks guys. So bearing problem is fixed, no more grinding/screeching noise or hot-to-touch hubs. Up next will be the ABS... thanks again for the help!
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I'll be there for work.
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Yep, he checked and rechecked, front and rear...
I had the brakes re-serviced (no new parts, just inspect the front brakes and tighten up the rear ones, there's a dial), changed the front wheel bearings and tie rods, and changed the fluids (front diff, rear diff, transmission, transfer case)I plan to bring it back again tomorrow since I have developed grinding/screeching noise from front right. It starts screeching as soon as I move, but it goes away when I steer to the left or step on the brake.
@Stioc: Where in SoCal are you located? I am moving to Santa Barbara this weekend, will be bringing the pathfinder, that's why I had it looked at today haha
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Hi
I have a 2000 Nissan Pathfinder.
I brought it to local mechanic and had the front wheel bearings and tie rods replaced on both sides. Next thing I know the abs light came on. I suspect there are broken ABS ring/components, but not too sure. Braking is not affected at all. Can someone help me out? Thanks.
Double post, admin please help delete the other one. Thanks. -
Hi
I have a 2000 Nissan Pathfinder.
I brought it to local mechanic and had the front wheel bearings and tie rods replaced on both sides. Next thing I know the abs light came on. I suspect there are broken ABS ring/components, but not too sure. Braking is not affected at all. Can someone help me out? Thanks. -
From experience, the HID does okay in clear night and snowfall. But once it rains or when the housing slightly fogs up because of the cold, the light output goes down to zero. I end up having to use the fog lights to navigate. I only have the 35W system though, so its not as bright as the 55W, but it doesn't blind oncoming traffic as much. Nice HID install by the way
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Replaced the diff fluids, transfer case and manual transmission fluids two years ago. Didn't put any sealant at all. No leaks till now. everything is nice and dry.
Note: Make sure you loosen the fill plug before the drain plug -
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An updated R50 with a swing away, man you Canadians get all the good stuff!!
Ahh, i ask because i had a good laugh when my 31" was installed, so anything bigger would be comical,
Rust is not the good stuff haha... and mine's a 2000, so essentially its a 1999 with the 2001 body. I think 2000 is also the last year with the tire swing carrier.
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I just read about this thread, it shouldn't be a problem
With 33's and steel wheel... Had this setup for about two years
With 35's and steel wheel... Had this setup for about half a year
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Headlight: 35W 8000K HID with Hi/lo beam - Hi beam and DRL runs on a halogen bulb, low beam runs on the HID. Its like having two bulbs fused into one. The hi beam is dimmer than the lo beam, but I like having a functional DRL.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004ZF3OZO/ref=oh_details_o06_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Aftermarket fogs: 5" Pro Comp spotlight (40 bucks a pair) with 85W PIAA Ion yellow fog bulbs (spot beam). The HID in a stock headlight halogen housing is terrible in the rain. Its actually worse than having a halogen light itself.
Also, PIAA 520 fog light with 85W PIAA bulbs as well (fog beam).
HID headlight and spot beam
HID headlight, spot beam and fogs
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I imported a 2000 Nissan Pathfinder from Toronto to Michigan back in 2011. I think Alkorahil has got it covered.
Collect the necessary paper works: A letter from Nissan USA (not local Nissan dealership) stating that the vehicle pass NHTSA and federal laws, etc. You'll have to call the 1800 numbers and give them your VIN number, then in two weeks time, you'll receive the letter. Then fill up the necessary forms: HS-7 and I can't remember if there are some other forms. Forms should be available on the US Customs website. Also, don't forget the Title and registration of the vehicle.
When you cross the border from Canada to America, tell the US Customs that you're importing the vehicle into the US. They'll do a quick inspection of the truck making sure there's no drugs or illegals in it. Submit all the forms and registrations etc. You'll have to pay import duty. They would ask the current price of the truck (approximately) and based the duty on that. At the time I told them that my truck was only worth 2k with all that rust and dents. So my duty was about 100 bucks. Once you made payments and filled up the form that they gave you, the officer would made three copies. He'd keep one copy, then give you the remaining. You'll have to take one copy of this form and title and vin to the department of transportation at your local state. And the third copy of this form, just keep it in the glove box in case somebody asked for proof of importation.
Michigan doesn't require safety or emissions tests. So it was good news for me. I'm not sure about other states.
I didn't notify Canada that I exported the truck into the US. I read somewhere there's a trade agreement and US customs would give Canada its import list. Since you are already on the import list, you'll be on the export list of Canada side. I've made many crossings in and out from Canada since then with no problems.
Good luck!
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This is the list of tires I've fit with 3.75" BS, 16" Pro comp.
http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/19867-max-tire-size-vs-lift-kit-used-vs-custom-or-oe-wheels/page-7?do=findComment&comment=659663 -
305/70/16 Nitto Mud Grappler
16x8, 6x5.5", 3.75" BS Pro Comp Wheels
2" A/C Lift
Strut-to-tire clearance is about 1/4". I only test fit, didn't actually end up getting the whole set. No rub at full lock.
35x10.5/16 Interco Super Swamper SSR
16x8, 6x5.5", 3.75" BS Pro Comp Wheels
2" A/C + 4" SFD
Strut-to-tire clearance is also about 1/4". No rubs at full lock coz I've trimmed the flares previously.
Note: The common size for 35s is 315/75/16 or 35x12.5/16. To run this, you gotta have 6" lift and 3.25" BS. I couldn't find any manufacturer that makes 16x8, 6x5.5", 3.25" BS. The only way to achieve this is to use spacers on top of stock OEM/aftermarket wheels. You can get 3" or 2.75" BS wheels, and fit these 35s, but your tires gonna stick way out past the fenders.
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This is for a 2000 Nissan Pathfinder SE. I hope someone else might find it useful.
255/75/16 BFG KM2
16x7, 6x5.5", OEM Wheels
Stock
265/70/16 Michelin XIce-2
16x7, 6x5.5", OEM Wheels
2" A/C Lift
285/75/16 Goodyear Wrangler MTR
16x8, 6x5.5", 3.75" BS Pro Comp Wheels
2" A/C Lift
Trim front fenders and flares, you won't see it from the outside; then take off rear fender flares
Rusty..
in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
Posted
All that rust gives some character to the pathy (think icon derelict without the fake rust paint job) and it creates clearance for when you want to fit 35s