dududuckling
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Posts posted by dududuckling
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Got the word back from Nissan, its definitely coming from the transmission.
They want ~CA$3400.00 for a brand new transmission (Parts = $2400.00 + Labor = $1000.00 approximately). Is it making sense at all? Do you think its possible to get them open up the transmission and replace the specific parts only?
Can you please share your thoughts on this, please? Thanks in advanced...
Andrew
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It was about 164,000 km as well, when I did a clutch bearing with Nissan. I intend to all the fluids at the end of the wheeling season...
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When was the last tranny fluid and clutch fluid change ? Not saying that's the cause, just useful info to have as we narrow it down.
@160,000 km... I should get it changed soon. But I did change something back in April, brought it to the shop and the guy filled 75w90 synthetic... i think its just for differential. How often should this fluid be changed? Can it be the problem as well?
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Hey all,
I'm driving a 2000 Nissan Pathfinder with a standard transmission. For the past one year, I find it tight to engage the first and reverse gears. You can shift into those gears, but you have to add a little more force on the stick and depress the clutch to its fullest extent. Over the past two months or so, sometime (and its just once in a while) I shift to the first gear, the stick will vibrate, produce a loud grinding noise, and jerk back into neutral.
Last night, when I was driving around city at approximately 60 km/h, there's a noise that only appears when the gas pedal is depressed with the gear engaged. So, for instance, if I go on gear 1 or 2 or 3 and I hit the gas pedal, the noise will appear. When the car is moving on a downhill and with the gear shifted to neutral, engaging the gas pedal and revving the engine will not produce the noise. When the car is stationary and with the gear shifted to neutral, engaging the gas pedal and revving the engine will also not produce the noise. The noise is kinda soft and barely noticable. I have to turn off the a/c (because my a/c compressor also makes similar noise) in order to hear that noise.
With the assumption that it would be a transmission-related problem, this morning I brought it to the local garage that specialized in transmission. The guy told me that my initial problem (its hard to engage the gears, etc) might be due to my clutch plate/ pressure plate, etc running low. I replaced the clutch disc/ cover and release bearing at 164,000 km (I had noise when I shift into gears and release the clutch, but it was fixed). I drive a lot on stop-and-go traffic. Do you think its time to get a new clutch again?
As for the noise, he wasn't sure where its coming from... he said its certainly not from the transmission because its neither grinding nor bearing noise. And based on his experience, he never heard of it before. He said its probably coming from the engine, etc. I'm bringing it to Nissan for diagnostic tomorrow. Does anyone have a clue to my problem? I know Nissan will say something tomorrow. But I'd like to hear your opinions... I wanna know the severity of the problem I'm having on the pathy.
Thanks for the help in advanced,
Andrew
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For those who would like to read more, I think he might be referring to this article:
http://www.motortrend.com/features/archive...nder/index.html
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My springs really dont sag at all, I just thought it might give me a little extra room with the strut spacer. I dont do a ton of off-roading so im going to go with BF Goodrich all-terrain ta's. Ive run these tires before and you can beat them in the snow and ice, I live in Buffalo, Ny so we get a good amount of snow.
I heard only good stuff about the BFG/AT.
One more thing... If I'm not mistaken, a strut spacer might give you a little more room, but will not change the tire to strut clearance as you mount the spacer on top of the strut. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong.
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Thanks for all the help I think Im gonna get the strut spacer and just go with the 255/70/16, I dont wanna push it. The 245/75/16 are cheaper and there a little taller thats why i was debating so much.
In my opinion, you don't need strut spacer to clear 255/70/16, unless your spring is sagging by a lot. My pathy has 217,000 km with stock spring, and even though people think I have a lowered pathfinder, I can still clear 255/70/16 BFG/MT KM2 just fine. But again, your truck might be a little different than mine and I'm pretty sure that strut spacer will become useful to level your rig once you lift it up. Are you getting the one from NX industry? Also, what kind of tire do you intend to run?
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i thought all these questions were answered in your first thread?
Lol.. I thought so too. I think you should be good up to 31" - someone can correct me if I'm wrong.
Or can you go to a tire shop and test fit a tire? That might give you peace of mind knowing that what you buy will work for sure.
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With the 255/70/16 where is the closest possible place it can rub? And how much room do you have at full turn? Is it on the mud flap? Because thats an easy solution take the mud flats off the front
I don't know the answer to those questions, but I shall check it out when I have the time.
I've never paid much attention to the rubbing issue since it never rubs at all. 255/70/16 is pretty much ~30" tire, maybe 0.5" different than the stock.
If I were to guess, I'd think the front mud guard in the inner wheel well is the one that you should be concerned of. I broke one recently while reversing at full lock. Prior to this, the screws holding it were loose and I was on the highway for six hours going at 120 km/h, which further loosened the mud guard. When I reversed at full lock, it broke the bottom edge of the mud guard. But if your pathy is nothing like mine, I don't think you should be worried about rubbing at all.
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255/70/R16
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Have a set of 255/70/16 Scorpion ATRs on the stock 2000 SE wheels. Only rubs in full lock in reverse. The ATRs are basically a less aggressive AT tire. Great tire - just more road oriented.
Plan to go to a more aggressive 245/75/16 to get a little more clearance without the need to trim. From what I have read, they are the tallest tire that will fit the stock 16" wheels with no rub (may still rub in reverse at full lock).
dududuckling - can you post some pics of those km2s mounted? Got to be a great tire.
Does full lock in reverse mean turning one side completely, and then try reversing? If that's the case, I've not noticed any rubbing at all while reversing in the carpark. Maybe I should listen harder...
In my opinion, the BFG/MT/KM2 tires are great on the rock, but aren't that great in the mud. My friend with a MT Baja Claw was doing much better and seemed to get more traction in the mud than the KM2.
These are the pictures:
Rear 3/4 shot:
An old picture of the Front 3/4:
I hope that helps.
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Isnt that the same size as stock? Anybody with the 255/70/16? I wanna make sure Im not gonna have to be cutting fender walls to stock rubbing
I've got the BFG/MT/KM2 255/70/16 mounted on a OEM Nissan wheel.
I have a stock (no lift), 2000 pathy that comes with fender flares as well - no rubbing at all.
In my opinion, the stock R50 comes with 255/65/16 tires and 255/70/16 is only ~1cm taller. I'm still using my 255/65/16 tires as spare. If that's what you want, I THINK you should be alright.
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Well the fact that the website is in New Zealand, Using their currency (we assume), And then you do the conversion, it comes to $1382. Attention to detail, my friend...
Jose
OHhh.... you were right.
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http://www.cockramnissan.co.nz/shoppingCar....htm#headlights
About US$1,300/pair. See bottom of page.
If this sounds outrageous, consider that replacement QX4 HIDs run $800-$900 each new.
Oh my God... you found it!!! Just wondering... I think it says: R50 L/H Headlamp for $800 and R50 R/H Headlamp for $1250... So total would be in the region of $2000 plus shipping. But I'm not gonna get it anyway... its too ridiculously expensive.
I think the blacked out headlights look great on my 01...However their light dispersion is horrible as stated before. Thank god the fogs put out a lot of light. I wish I could get the HID's, but they are too damn expensive!
And GPG: I am pretty sure the QX4 comes with a hatch glass opening mechanism, so who knows how much of the hardware is already installed in the Pathfinder for the switch...
Nice pathy, Laxman... Its lifted, isn't it? Yeah... I got the same headlight housing as urs... I think the reflector is made out of aluminium foil. Installed a HID conversion to it and I think my halogen fog lights still disperse much better.
Prior to this, I didn't know that R50 in Japan was so advanced. I mean... the ones in Japan had adjustable HID beam with projector housing whereas what we've got in the States only comes with halogen beam. But I still like my pathy nonetheless... never failed me to this day.
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Thanks for your help, Tekaz.
I was looking for the headlights simply to satisfy my curiosity. Not long ago, I installed the black Anzo headlights housing from ebay. I think this is the one mentioned by 01silvapathy. In my opinion, the reflector from the factory housing still works better at dispersing lights from halogen bulbs as compared to Anzo's ones.
Then I installed HID kit on the pathy. With the current housing, there's simply too much glare for oncoming drivers and I had to aim the beam slightly downward. Currently, people aren't flashing me anymore, except those who drive lowered civics/acura. They sit so low that my lights are aimed at them.
In the picture, it seems that JDM housing contains projector headlights. Seeing how halo projector headlights for civic only cost around US$300 + shipping, I thought these ones would cost around the same price. The HID serves its purpose really well in the dark, but it would be even better if coupled with projector headlights.
If the price ranges in the thousands, there's no way I'm gonna get them. Just be happy with what I have and I'd rather save all that money for a lift or other mods.
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Thanks, guys...
Terr, is there like an accessories shop in Aussie that sells the JDM headlights? If yes, can I get a website? I've been trying the search engine, but had no luck. If its JDM factory, I assume any local nissan dealer in Japan should have the parts, right? Just like how I search for pathy headlights and lotsa parts are available from local nissan shops. But I read no Japanese...
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I saw this headlight housing on someone's 2000 R50/Terrano on the website. I think it is a JDM accessories. I've been trying to look for it, but it was to no avail.
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images...20005_large.jpg
Does anyone know where to find that item? I believe it must be an aftermarket... but I might be wrong.
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I'll up my donation from 20 to 100 bucks... Just let me know how to donate. I hope by this time we are in the range of around 2500 bucks... then probably 300 bucks can be made through selling of shirts/calendar/stickers, etc...
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Thanks, Red and Beavis...
Yeah, I was reading the entire topic and I thought this is where I can donate tonight. But the polling idea is cool as it gives rough estimate how much people are willing to donate. With the deadline already set by the junkyard, I sincerely hope that we have enough time to raise the required amount and that Mr. Jim gets his truck back!!!
Andrew
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Jim,
I'm a newbie here and I don't know you at all. But this site, which you helped to build, has provided me with so much information and experience. Without it, my pathy would remain stock for the rest of her life and I'd never even step foot in the mud. I'll be willing to chip in for the donation (does anyone know how to donate? all I see is just the pole). I sincerely hope you'll be able to bring her back... its a seriously awesome WD21.
Andrew
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sorry for the topic hijack...
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if you want to keep the CV angles safe, don't get strut spacers. at full droop the control arm will be hyperextended in relation to factory spec. at that point you're approaching the workable limit of the CV angle, and you definitely don't want to be cranked on the steering wheel and heavy on the skinny pedal.
hey alex, did you install lift on the r50 or are you still running stock coils? and what tire size r u running? im just wondering coz ur r50 seems to be doing lotsa cool stuff too.
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All I know is they're the OME HD coils installed and they offer way more lift than .5" based on how it sits. In the front, I'd say it has settled between ~1.25-1.5"; the rear ~1.5"-1.75" (but I don't think the rear has necessarily 'settled' as there's hardly any weight there).
As far as I know, OME offers a range of coils in various sizes and types. 0.5" is the least, 1.75" is the most.
Check with Fueler, too. There are also a couple other members here who have them installed.
Okay... that sounds good to me. I guess when the springs are settled, the difference in the lift provided by AC and OME HD lift are probably negligible. Thanks man,
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OME HD 1.75" coils, KYB GR-2 struts w/ OEM hardware, Bilstein 5150s with no sway bar in the rear.
tekaz, i'm just wondering... does it really give you the 1.75"? I think OME website says the coil only provides .5" lift. and i figured that ud be the best person to ask since you have it installed on the pathy. thanks,
RE: Noise coming from the engine or transmission?
in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
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I asked if they can open up the transmission and replace the faulty parts, they said it will add up to longer labor hours and the overall cost is gonna be more expensive than to replace the transmission itself. I asked about a used transmission, Nissan said its bound to fail in the near future. I don't know how true this is... There are times when I wanna sell the pathy for a cheap Civic, lol...