GrimGreg

Why I get pissed when I'm on a trail ride and the guy behind me is too close. Or going up a climb and they start on up behind you when you are half way up. It's kind of a judgement call based on the situation. Any offroading rig-rig incidents can happen in so many ways, for so many reasons. Why didn't you move when he came sliding at you?

Those look to be similar in construction to the Manik ones, about the same price too.

Your trip home sounds like my 3hr trip home(normally 1.5hr) when I realized my fuel filter was clogged.

It's a fork, not a prybar. Stick it between the ball joint and the spindle and you won't bend anything.

BS! Pull the hub (manual or auto) and remove the snap ring. LEAVE THE REST OF THE HUB/ROTOR ALONE! Undo the Tie Rod Put a jack under the LCA and remove the upper BJ. FORK IS OK IF YOU ARE REPLACING IT! Let the jack down slowly till the shock bottoms out. Turn the spindle till you can pop the axel shaft out, takes a little wiggling and getting it in the sweet spot. Undo the lower BJ, again FORK OK if replacing. Then do it all in reverse. (Option; you can undo the tension on the T-bar adjusters rather than use a Jack on the LCA, what I actually did, but can be a pain without air tools.)

I was not aware of OEM ones. Look for Manik brand, probably your best bet.

I think the main issue with any 2wd tranny, even though it would mate up to the engine, is the tail housing. IIRC it's not as simple as removing it and bolting to the T-case, the 4x4 trannys have a case made to mate with the T-case. Another possible option, if they ever made a manual for them, would be out of a Mazda MVP. I know they were 4x4 and the automatics used the same tranny as we have, so if they had a manual it should be the same or similar to the ones on our trucks.

All the WD-21s are the same from the B pillar forward as far as the body goes minor changes through the years, but all interchangable. Suspention and frames are all the same, though the rear lower trailing arms were changed in design, but all the same size and fit. Steering components were also changed in 90 IIRC to a larger taper for the TREs and the later models have a different steering box/pitman also.

IIRC AC sells motor mounts for 4.3L GMs to be used on our trucks. You can buy aftermarket fuel injection computers that will work with most motors, the hard part is getting your stock guages to work, temp and tach specifically. I would agree on trying to find a 3.3L Nissan and just swaping the engine and computer, they will bolt up to your tranny and or t-case and stock motor mounts without modifications or adaptors. I wouldn't go with a super charged version though unless you want to buy only Premium gas.

Or the aluminum siding off your house. Hell, they were stealing the bronze manhole covers that had the huge Columbus seal on it and selling them for scrap here. They cracked down hard on salvage metals last year in Columbus.

Nah, just hold up your towel, they won't see you

My guess is a cordless "Port-a-band" type saw. They are quick and quiet.

There was a Pathy on Ebay not to long ago that had one of those on it. FYI, they're worthless, nothing more than a high speed fan. It doesn't compress the air in any way, nor force any extra in.

That is all dependant on the housing etc. for the 9", there are so many different 9" variations that a general better or worse doesn't apply.

For some tips, oven ideas, etc. look here: http://forum.eastwoodco.com/forumdisplay.php?f=9

Strength wise; H233b>D44

Basically. Think of it like this, you wouldn't take a cooking pan out to catch your motor oil, then clean it out to cook with again would you? Besides the fact the the powder off gasses while it bakes, think about the type of items you would powder coat and think if you would want them in your oven with your Thanksgiving Turkey.

Might get out the PB Blaster, crawl under the truck and spray the linkage and shifter pivots really well. Let that sit a while, soak it again then try to move the shifter. The pivot might just be froze from lack of use.

From Yotah8r on NOAS: So I guess your local Dealer parts counter needs to be a NISMO dealer also in order to order them.

I think any dealer can get the lower gears for the H233b also, but they are still about the same price as AC.

Shouldn't need new "hub caps", or drive flanges or whatever you mean there. But the seals are a good idea if you are pulling the inner bearing out to repack it since there is a very good chance of damaging the old one trying to remove it. FYI, if the rotor is anything like the ones on the WDs then it will require a little force to seperate it from the hub even after all the bolts are out. They like to kind of "rust weld" inplace. But since you are replacing the rotor, you can give it a good smack with a hammer to break it loose.

Cool , just wanted to stress that point for anyone thinking about getting into DIY powder coating. The first DIY kit I saw was in Hot Rod Magazine in the 80s and they said that the oven they used could never be used to cook in again. Glad to see a more mass market brand/distributor for it now.

X3,..especially when you are criticizing their quality.

Flipped Over Rebuilt Dodge