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Sweet. Always nerve wracking firing that up after doing this job lol.

SUCCESS! https://imgur.com/a/qWyHVX8

Very much so… but feels great to finally get it done. Thanks again for you guys’ help!

My head gaskets were cracked along the inner bead and leaking in from the water jacket. I had one REALLY clean piston. The rest looked normal. When I peeled the gasket off, I discovered that the only cylinders that didn't have cracks in the gasket was 3 & 4, just leaking really bad on 1.

This is your Rear Windshield Wiper Motor, you will need to remove your rear wiper arm and then there will be a plastic nut that you will need to remove from around the wiper motor shaft which will then allow you to remove it from your R50 hatch. Chris.

Items in the works: I've got a handful of things still to do short term but the list is finally getting shorter. Firstly the important items learned from the recent Moab trip would be that I need axle limiting straps and a taller spring would be ideal. I want to eliminate the HDPE spacers I've used for years and get an all-spring setup. I may also move the spring perches forward and fabricate new lower shock mounts that will provide more clearance. Still have some research to do on that front. While I was coming through Oregon I took advantage of a sale+no tax+IST coupon to walk out the door with a 12K winch for $260 bucks. Just need to swap over my old 9.5K Smittybilt synthetic rope and figure out where to remote mount the solenoid. The front suspension really isn't terrible, especially given my KYB's are approaching 10 years of age, but my roots in high speed off-road really have me wanting to build a better front end. Long term I have plans to make a LT front setup that should fit the bill very nicely but it'll be a ways off. For now there are a set of motorsport coilover struts that should work with the Nissan suspension components after a few changes. I think the weakest link of the whole front setup is the lower control arm mounts and overall method of stamped sheet metal manufacturing. A set of chromoly tube arms with through-bolt mounts and the motorsport coilover struts would be pretty slick and get me closer to the machine I want. I'm sure there are a few bits I've missed but this should be mostly up to date now. A few pics from the recent Moab trip with @hawairish

I have OME med. duty springs in rear. This was over 400 fence boards and other supplies. Squatted the trailer tires, but not the truck. They have been great for towing Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Last items finally came in! Took a little longer than I wanted but the savings was worth it. Now I just have to find the time to install everything .

Bigger meats which I already have from my older 720 4x4...and a lift thanks to Fleurys. Just got here today. Tempted to install tonight as i just got home from work but I might make myself wait until the weekend. We'll see how that goes

I still haven't dived into this yet and have been driving it with the noise. I did just take the time to read through the strut/spring removal/installation instructions in the repair manual and noticed that there is a notch in the upper spring seat that the manual says to make sure it faces outwards (towards the sides of the vehicle). Well I took a look at mine and they are both facing exactly the opposite, towards the engine compartment. Pretty sure this is my problem, just hope it hasn't damaged anything yet. Hoping that I will be able to leave the struts on the vehicle, jack it up, remove the wheels, use a spring compressor and then just turn the mounts to the correct orientation. Hope this can help others when replacing struts and springs.

Here's a tip for anyone trying to remove the OEM bushings from trailing arms: Use an air chisel to knock out the collar. Faster than trying to hacksaw or sawzall through it, and cheaper than having a shop press it out.