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To follow through... I put John Deere HyGard (standard, not Low-Vis) in my 2000 Toyota Echo this week and have done a little driving around town so far. Initial impressions: it shifts really nice, the stick moves more freely in neutral, it *seems like the car accelerates a little more "freely." It's been quite warm this week but we're getting another cold snap so I'll get a chance to see how it feels on an actual cold morning. The oil I drained out of the transmission looked decent, it wasn't utterly filthy or runny or milky. I have no idea what fluid it was or when it was last changed to be honest. It was obviously much thicker than the HyGard but I didn't know if it was spec fluid or regular 90 weight or what. It was also low, drained out 56ozs and poured in 72ozs before it dribbled out the hole. I've owned this little car for about 5 years and put over 40K miles on it so I'm pretty familiar with how it feels while driving in various conditions It's all seat-of-the-pants at this point but I'll say I'm pleased with how it feels. My son is gonna try it his Pathfinder and I'll report back again. His is grindy going into 2nd when it's cold so that'll be a good test.

You could also try Amayama. They seem to have some things that you can't get anywhere else... some...

@ryan6351I did replace both rear disks when I did this years ago. The one rotor was excessively ground asymmetrically on one side. It NEEDED to be replaced. I got the slotted/drilled rotors and I really don't think it was worth the money, but they look cool when the wheel is off!! When you pull the rear rotors, you can inspect the parking brakes to see if there is any leakage from the rear axle seal.... That's a whole different rabbit hole!! The fronts, in order to get the rotors off and replace them, there is really no way around pulling the bearings and hub. It's not a difficult job. There are specs and torques in the procedure that I have never really done and I've never had a problem with them as a result of my negligence to the procedure. Hope this helps!! Good Luck!!!!

Do you mean the one the window rides in like a track or the "scraper" at the bottom of the window frame that always rusts on these? You should be able to find some on eBay but look under hard body or d21 as they are more common still. For the front doors at least.

That makes sense. It’s weird, but makes sense. I will try and stick that in my head for future reference. Thanks.

There is power to 87a, but it works opposite to 87. If there's power to the coil, 30 and 87 connect. If there's no power to the coil, 30 and 87a connect. This is wasted in most circuits (which is why many relays only have four pins), but it can be useful in some applications. If you had halos or markers or something that you wanted on only when the headlights weren't, you'd wire those to 87a.

The hardest part if you were to go with a component set is fitting the tweeter in the factory spot. However since the front is already component, the wiring is already there. The cross over is already labeled. Input from the amp, woofer, and tweeter. As far as wiring goes, it's as simple as removing the factory stuff and installing the aftermarket in its place. Better around quality is always achieved with components.