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Alright, so yeah, now this is coming back to me. That single taper H233B setup was actually identical to my 98 Frontier's H190 setup. Same bearing cage, bearing, shims, seal, etc. But, I guess I also thought there was a range of W/D21 drums that had the newer bearing cage like the R50, but seemingly that was limited to the wider axles (R50, D22, WD22). And yeah, that recessed axle nut in the bearing cage is absurd. I once bought a spanner that I thought would work, but wasn't even close. I've made a couple tools using my plasma table to do that work, but I sold one and Towndawg has the other for his disc brake swap. I made them to accept 1/2" ratchets/breakers in order to hit those torque specs, but in more recent efforts, have just resorted to hammer and punch. This was one of them. Wasn't a fan of the design, but worked: I liked this one better because it gave me some wings to smack with a hammer: When I first started getting into the axle shaft tear downs, I just went out and bought a floor press (was cheaper than outsourcing the work) and it's been a wonderful shop addition ever since (most recently used for a t-case upgrade). I just needed to make some tools to tear things down. This was one of my later setups using some scrap; just bolt onto the bearing cup and suspend in the floor press: Towndawg stepped it up and made one with a turn screw...no press required for disassembly. Looking at the FSM for my Frontier, though (and largely assuming that process hadn't changed for the single-taper design since '92), it shows use of a tool similar to Towndawg's for pulling the bearing w/o a press, but then shows just using a drift to reinstall the bearings (both outer and inner races). I've never done this job on my Frontier to confirm, and now that it has an H233B with discs under it, I won't have to. @gamellott Since the H190 bearing setup appears to be identical to your H233B setup (according to NissanPartsDeal.com, every part from the axle lock nut to the seal on a '92 is a VIN match to my '98), let me know if I can get you some pics from my H190 to confirm anything for you.

I've done it once, a long time ago on someone else's drum brake 95. It was a pain in the ass taking it all apart for a couple of seals. If you don't have a press do yourself a favor and take the assembly to a shop once you have it apart, get them to press it apart/back together after.

Though…shouldn’t they only then differ by the bearing and bearing cup, which would be shallower, but otherwise be the same process. Pretty sure the grease seal is the same for practically everything, down to the H190 (which I think uses the same single bearing…I’ll have to crossref that).

My bad, forgot the older drums used the single tapers and thrust blocks, unlike everything after (including Frontier and Xterra) using dual bearings.

The R50 drum/WD21 disk rears are built the same, but the drum WD21 rear is a different beast with a single row on either side and the axles butted up against a thrust block in the diff, with shims on either side to set the end-float. I did the rear bearings in mine recently (WD21, disk) and there isn't really an adjustment for them. Just a very high torque spec for the nut that holds it all together, which I'm not sure how you're supposed to get, given that you'd need the world's deepest socket or a really weird crow's foot to get a torque wrench on it. I just gave 'er wha by hand with the spline wrench I welded up to remove them. I've seen people use a hammer and punch instead, but I didn't want to risk damaging the stupid spline nuts. And, yeah, you'll need a press and some creativity in setting it up for the various operations you'll have to do to get everything separated. The service manual has a pretty good breakdown, though of course it assumes you have the super-special Kent-Moore kit for everything. Too bad it has to come apart for a seal, that's a lot of screwing around for one piece of rubber. But if there's oil coming past the outer seal, that suggests the inner has been whupped for a long time. If you're going to the effort of replacing the seal, I'd plan on doing both seals, the O ring, and the bearing as well. Mine weren't actually bad (much to my annoyance--I was hoping they were the source of an annoying noise) but they did show some discoloration on the rollers and races, and there wasn't a whole lot of grease in there anymore. Looked like the inner seals failed and diff oil washed the grease out. I also had to put a fair whack of stress on the old bearings to get the axle to budge. This didn't leave any obvious damage, but I was happy I had new bearings that hadn't been abused like that to put it back together with. (And then there was the race I dropped, where the plastic cage broke and the rollers scattered from hell to breakfast.) I shot some video of the job when I did mine, then never did anything with it. Let me know if you get stuck on something and I'll try and work out what I did there.