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@R50JR sent me an ebay link the other week for a Patrol switch panel and convinced me that it'd fit. I did some additional comparisons and agreed that it would. I had some concerns about how well the trim colors would match (there was a "K" gray, "W" light gray, and "G" tan, as far as I could tell), since it was clear the trim color codes were not the same here (my all-black interior trim is "G") and all the photos I could find seemed too tough to tell the exact tone. After some deliberation, I ordered the last pair of "W" "K" panels the seller had. After waiting a few days, they arrived. Product looked great. The color was a slightly brownish-gray. (My Frontier has a "K" gray trim, and it's not even remotely close). In hindsight, the light gray "W" might have been good contrast. But overall, I dig it. Fitment is good. Material quality is really good. Getting the console down from the roof and detaching the wiring harnesses from the backside of the sunglasses tray was the toughest part. Things may get a little more complicated once wires are up there. The company that makes them is Kenay Kustoms out of AUS. Unfortunately, they do not ship direct to the US, but I plan to reach out to them to confirm fitment based on the pics below. They also made color-matching blanks, except they were out of stock of them. The black ones were reasonably priced, ordered through the same ebay seller (dukes_4x4_and_camping) that sold the panels. Anyway, some pics below. Not sure what all I'll put in them yet, but it'll be way more useful than the worthless the sunglasses holder that doesn't fit any sunglasses I've ever owned. It does block the climate and compass readouts a little, but a slight head dip resolves that easily. It's not something I stare at regularly anyway. From this perspective, the color match is perfect: And it's too bad there aren't any cool Nissan switches to put here, but they would fit reasonably well:

I'm sure there are a few threads on this already, but I'll include some work I did to lay out the space for anyone trying to overland in a WD21 4 Door. I was just trying to figure out a comfortable place for my fiancee and I to sleep. Even summer nights in the mountains are too cold for the Mrs. and she cried during two camping trips in 2020 from not being able to sleep for two nights straight lol. Anyway, onto the photos. The limiting factor for rear space is where the rear seat bottoms tumble to. But not if you remove them, as mentioned in many a thread here. Just 4 12mm bolts per seat, easily done by hand. Unbolt the seat bottom itself so the hinge can nearly store flat under the folded seatback. As a bonus, you can use the seat bottom more easily as a filler without potentially hurting your carpet or bending the bracket. Just flip it 180 degrees and the notch for the wheel well fits around the center console instead! This gives you extra room without completely losing the front seats. One seat tumbled one seat removed. about 20" of space if you slam the front seats all the way forward and tilt them. This gives you 79" (6'7") of space from the closed hatch lid to the rear seat. But then there's a drop off between the seat back and seat cushion and the cushion itself has some mobility. If you just push the front seats back enough you can sort of "jam" the rear seat into this position so it doesn't move, and you have a clean transition from one space to another. it ramps down 5" and you lose 3", but still have 6'4" of space in the rear end to end. I'm planning to have a custom foam piece cut, or just filling it with blankets. For now, I just found a cheap foam topper on Marketplace and threw it back there for reference in this 17" setup. As noted elsewhere, if you remove the rear seat cushion completely, push the front seats all the way up, remove the headrests, and fold it flat - there's 9 feet of mostly flat surface. 9 full feet, no kidding! Insane. Here's the setup with a full sized foam pad. Depending on how you park, if you're able to get away with the parking brake being down, it would be easy to make a platform that extends all the way to the steering wheel. I would suggest elevating the platform somehow otherwise you're going to ruin the front seat bolstering over time, if I had to guess. Anyway, hope this helps someone some day. Here are all my measurements as I was considering having custom foam pieces cut to fit the rear perfectly instead of making an elevated platform with wood, which I am going back and forth on. I can take more on request as I'll be messing around all week with this before reinstalling the rear seats for every day use again.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/182445594617 I’d highly recommend color coding if you have the patience. In the long run it will make rewiring & diagnosis easier. SUPER happy with this item from BP Automotive btw, superb quality. That said, it’s bulky for sure. Not a problem at the A-Pillar for trucks without air bags but probably an issue with them. It’s just going to be ALOT of wires. While less robust, that’s part of the reason I’m going with one of these below on the Pathy. @02_Pathy put his in front of the shifter & it’s perfect. 8 Gang & the lights are down out of your peripheral vision where they won’t bother you at night. Plus, much easier to wire. Though admittedly not as robust as the system I put in the 4Runner. Photos courtesy of @‘02_Pathy Auxbeam 8 Gang Switch Panel Automatic Dimmable LED Touch Control Panel Box Electronic Relay System Car Touch Switch Box Universal for Truck ATV UTV Boat Marine SUV Caravan https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07KZLB74K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_F5H8DPTXKEBYW0XQJS9Q?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

There are slides on the drawers, just can’t see them! Ha, I was wondering who would notice first. They’re actually under mounted. After messing around with the standard set up I just couldn’t get them to roll smoothly because of all the geometry involved, so I basically took the slides and mounted them to base with thick beefy angle brackets and then put a 2x4 on the bottom of each of the drawers to screw the slides into so they still function identically to side mounted slides but the spacing between them is only 4 inches and they make a sandwich with the 2x4. I was initially concerned with the stability but so far so good. There is a tiny bit of flex clockwise/counter clockwise but as long as I don’t put all of the weight on one corner of the drawer (which would be dumb anyway), everything works great. And of course the added benefit of doing it this way is that I have a couple inches of room under each drawer to stash longer items like breaker bars, prybars, etc. I also went with 2’ long drawers instead of the full 30” so that I could still stash water, jack stand, recovery equipment, air compressor, and the spare CV behind the back seats. I need to hardwire and mount the compressor eventually but for now it’s sitting in the cargo area. I haven’t decided yet whether I want a small air tank to go along with it, in which case I would put it where the spare used to go, and then mount the compressor close by for simplicity’s sake. Anyway, I still need to either carpet or paint the the drawer boxes. So far I’ve only got the carpet on the front face and bottom of each drawer Here’s a quick pick of the mounting set up. I need to chop the slide bolts down a bit or get some shorter ones, I was playing around with fitment to see if the idea was feasible and I only had that length on hand so I just went with it and before I knew it the drawers were done lol

Yeah, we didn’t have much trouble running power for a dash cam & a microphone line for my new radio. Do the ‘03 & ‘04s have airbags in that A-Pillar? I’m jealous, the Pathy is not a great vehicle in which to have a collision. Side curtain airbags seem like a wise addition. I used to joke that in an accident, my wife’s Jetta would look like the first Mars rover landings.

As you've discovered, Hawairish is the Nissan diff guru. I don't have much to add here, except to say that I'd love to see a project thread on either of your 4x4 conversions!

Patrick, Thanks again for getting back to me. See my response in purple type...... Just to make sure we have the main goal in mind here, I've interpreted "bypass[ing] the electronic AWD feature" as meaning you're looking to bypass whatever software-driven traction system you've got (ABS, VDC, TCS, ABLS, etc.) on the truck with a mechanical LSD. If so, my quick response would be that if you can find a suitable LSD, bypassing any system wouldn't be necessary: the system would just be supplemental to the device's functions. That is, the system would only kick in after it determined that a LSD (if it existed) was allowing enough slip to satisfy detection logic via sensors. Otherwise, if you do mean to bypass AWD, you may need to expand on what function you're referring to. The All-Mode system on the truck already has the means to bypass the mode simply by turning the dial to 2WD, but that option seems out of context to the questions. I am converting the Pathfinder to all-electric drive….so no engine and no transmission. (I am using a dedicated direct-drive gear-reduction unit instead of a transmission for this project....see https://www.torquetrends.com/ev-torquebox.) I don’t expect the Nissan AWD system and the ABS traction-control system will work without data from that equipment. If it does, your remarks above make good sense. Will be interesting to find out. Either way, I'd just focus on the LSD part for now, if that's what you're really after. Yes, that is what I am interested in. I would like to have a stand-alone analog LSD ‘device’ available full-time for regular 2WD operation. Admittedly, I don't know much about R51, but I can infer enough just from FSM data (https://www.nicoclub.com/nissan-service-manuals) and part numbers. Follow along... The 2005 FSM indicates you've got an R200 rear final drive. A parts cross-reference indicates that the side gears in your differential (38423-0C000 -> 38423-0C00A) are also used in 2003-2008 350Z cars and 2005-2010 Frontiers, Xterras, and Pathfinders. That means the splining between those vehicles are the same. The differential carrier (38421-0C000) for those trucks were all the same, and since the Frontier and Xterra have C200 rear axles, and yours has an R200 rear, it means those differentials are the same. (R200/C200 compatibility was also true on pre-MY05 trucks/SUVs/cars, but MY05+ R200/C200 are different from pre-MY05 versions.) From prior research just the other week, I can also confirm that the C200 open carrier from a 2.5L D40 Frontier is the same as a 350Z, and they too shared the same side gear. All the above vehicles use the same carrier bearings. I presume more parts to be identical. The end result is that, in theory, all the differentials from 2003-2008 350Z and 2005-2010 Frontiers, Xterras, and Pathfinders with R200 rear diffs (G35, R51) or C200 rear diffs (D40, N40) are all interchangeable. Your analysis seems reasonable to me. I have recently graduated from thirty years of driving (and repairing) BMW 5 series vehicles of the 1982-1988 vintage. Not many drive train options there, though I converted several of them to manual transmission plus LSD rear ends. (I live in rural Canada – snow and ice constitute 90% of driving difficulties out here.) I even converted one to all-electric drive. But I have to admit I am alarmed at the seemingly arbitrary range of drive-train and differential components that Nissan has generated over a very few years. You, however, seem to have acquired a clear view of this confusion. If that's true, a Quaife QDF13L LSD for 2003-08 350Z/G35 with VLSD should work in the truck. This is just what I want to do. I’ve looked high and low for a Torsen-style LSD for my Pathfinder. I have the differential apart and ready to install the correct LSD components. Can you think of any further tests I could do to confirm the fitment before I buy the Quaife? Your patience and generosity with advise is greatly appreciated. Cheers, Gerry P.S. One further question…I am starting to think that the front differential on my truck uses the same carrier as the rear. If this is true would the Quaife work in the front application as well? P.S.S. I read the whole of your interaction with that troublesome fellow from the earlier conversation….. "The ‘Dunning–Kruger Effect’ is a cognitive bias in which unskilled people make poor decisions and reach erroneous conclusions, but their incompetence denies them the ability to recognize their mistakes. The unskilled therefore suffer from illusory superiority, rating their ability as above average, much higher than it actually is. Many competent individuals falsely assume that others have an equivalent understanding." Source: Why People Fail to Recognize Their Own Incompetence from Current Directions in Psychological Science.

Just to make sure we have the main goal in mind here, I've interpreted "bypass[ing] the electronic AWD feature" as meaning you're looking to bypass whatever software-driven traction system you've got (ABS, VDC, TCS, ABLS, etc.) on the truck with a mechanical LSD. If so, my quick response would be that if you can find a suitable LSD, bypassing any system wouldn't be necessary: the system would just be supplemental to the device's functions. That is, the system would only kick in after it determined that a LSD (if it existed) was allowing enough slip to satisfy detection logic via sensors. Otherwise, if you do mean to bypass AWD, you may need to expand on what function you're referring to. The All-Mode system on the truck already has the means to bypass the mode simply by turning the dial to 2WD, but that option seems out of context to the questions. Either way, I'd just focus on the LSD part for now, if that's what you're really after. Admittedly, I don't know much about R51, but I can infer enough just from FSM data (https://www.nicoclub.com/nissan-service-manuals) and part numbers. Follow along... The 2005 FSM indicates you've got an R200 rear final drive. A parts cross-reference indicates that the side gears in your differential (38423-0C000 -> 38423-0C00A) are also used in 2003-2008 350Z cars and 2005-2010 Frontiers, Xterras, and Pathfinders. That means the splining between those vehicles are the same. The differential carrier (38421-0C000) for those trucks were all the same, and since the Frontier and Xterra have C200 rear axles, and yours has an R200 rear, it means those differentials are the same. (R200/C200 compatibility was also true on pre-MY05 trucks/SUVs/cars, but MY05+ R200/C200 are different from pre-MY05 versions.) From prior research just the other week, I can also confirm that the C200 open carrier from a 2.5L D40 Frontier is the same as a 350Z, and they too shared the same side gear. All the above vehicles use the same carrier bearings. I presume more parts to be identical. The end result is that, in theory, all the differentials from 2003-2008 350Z and 2005-2010 Frontiers, Xterras, and Pathfinders with R200 rear diffs (G35, R51) or C200 rear diffs (D40, N40) are all interchangeable. If that's true, a Quaife QDF13L LSD for 2003-08 350Z/G35 with VLSD should work in the truck. My full technical assessment is available here: https://www.clubfrontier.org/threads/rear-axel-swap.368234/post-3903321, but the abstract that's relevant here is: If you decide to read into that post further, please enjoy my bashing of some idiot. There's also some technical "talk" about what Nissan calls a system versus what said-idiot calls a device, just to clear up the differences in traction systems and devices.

Blokka for the R50 rear differential! 33 spline. Ordered Feb 8th arrived March 2nd. $290.88 delivered. Installation date is still to be determined.. Stay tuned.