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Commenting on DBC / TX14 '02 LEs: @02_Pathy: A year ago I was spotting for the PNW group at Tahuya. 02_Pathy was able to approach, climb, traverse & descend obstacles with minute precision - a VERY controlled drive. Myself: I've mostly used 4Lo just on rough Forest Roads this year, my last trip I was in 4Lo for long time intervals, however, I would note that I definitely have a linear throttle response.

Just to clarify something about the SFD talk...main takeaway is that the engine (among other things) is supported by a subframe on the truck. @TowndawgR50's recommendation earlier is to loosen the subframe so that it'll allow the transmission to tip down at the rear so you can get access to the upper bellhousing bolts with ratchet extensions and such. The process I've used is for installing SFDs is to replace the rear bolts of the subframe with longer bolts (such as the trailing arm bolts) so that the subframe slides down the bolts while staying aligned with the chassis. It adds a little effort to the process since other nuts and bolts get loosened, and needing to support the subframe a bit, but otherwise, without doing it, you'd have to put some flex on the motor mounts to access those upper bolts. That's not to say it can't be done without loosening the subframe.

Perhaps we can look at this if we get a group up to washington this spring. Especially comparing myself and @02_Pathy.

Day trip to the Cherohala Skyway today. Took a little detour through the Nantahala NF Sent from my SM-J327P using Tapatalk

Seems like the consensus, then, is that the DBW is too sensitive...though, that may be synonymous with "more responsive", and ultimately by-design? It could be just that my driving sucks, though I'm definitely not a run-and-gun wheeler. Being that I wheel with a lot of D40/N40 guys, I would have expected similar behavior from their trucks, but I've not observed that. They have a considerably better crawl ratio (33.9:1 for a 5/AT, vs. 26.1:1 in mine), and I wonder if that makes that much of a difference.

Just let me know when. If I'm available, I'm in! Here in GA too. Sent from my SM-J327P using Tapatalk

Good to see you got it! Again I'd be interested to see what's gone wrong in the old one, if you decide to tear into it.

You could've just swapped the axle shafts over and transferred any brake parts. The shaft bearings are contained in a bearing cup that removes with the axle shaft. Unless you wanted the diff and LSD, too...even then, once the axle shafts were pulled, the diff could be swapped. Anyway, glad it's resolved for you.

Went got a little dirty today! Sent from my SM-J327P using Tapatalk