Leaderboard

Thank you for your patience everyone! We're excited to make a few important announcements... First, our company name: Pines to Spines Off Road. Affectionately "PSO" in our regular discussions, the name refers to the regions we call home and the challenges in between that inspire us to design and build our rigs to tackle all terrains. Our primary goal is to provide a comprehensive line of products that focuses on design, function, and quality. Since our product line will come from two locations depending on our fabrication processes, we also couldn't proceed without proper facility names: the "Tiger Mountain Test Lab" in WA, and the "Spines Fab Lab" in AZ. By both combining and splitting the production, we're able to make solid use of our respective areas of expertise and assets. Second, our SFD components. Let's step backwards for a moment, though: we know there are "kits" (pieces?) out there. Everything we've seen is based on antiquated prints that have been floating around the internet for years, with very basic designs, zero improvement, limited tooling access, and little assurance that the alignment issues are addressed. The design got folks down the road, but many have experienced problems with fabrication quality or alignment issues. The original kits were also intended for a specific outcome (either 4" to 6" of lift), and potentially required removal of prior upgrades; even that company got out of the game for some reason. Fast-forward to now, and we're addressing all those points. Our SFD solution is modular and bolt-on, backed by CAD and CNC equipment to produce consistent and efficient results. Our SFD "kit" is actually multiple kits, including a non-SFD lift option! We'll be offering 1.75", 3", and 4" strut spacers, all of which feature camber adjustment, and pairing those with 3" and 4" SFD kits. This allows us to cater to practically any desired setup! The 1.75" base spacer can be used without a subframe drop, or combined with OME or AC springs and 3" SFD to produce something more moderate. The base spacer is also the heart of our 3" and 4" strut spacers, so upgrading later is easy. None of the spacers require strut disassembly, and because they are two-piece spacers, installation is as simple as attaching one part to the strut, the other part to the chassis, and then bringing the two together. All materials meet or exceed OE specs with grade 10.9 metric hardware, 1/4" plate for the strut components and subframe risers with 3/16" plate for the motor mounts. Shown above are the unfinished prototype 3" and 4" motor mount spacers, the 4" strut spacer demonstrating full camber offset, and the upper mounting plate for use as a 1.75" spacers. These are fresh from the plasma table and press break processes this past weekend with a quick mock-up to validate core assembly so they have not been welded yet. We are still prototyping, using our personal rigs and a 3rd vehicle--an 03 Pathfinder LE (a.k.a., The Gambler) that @ferrariowner123 graciously sent our way! This rig will be fitted with all of our gear and serve as demo vehicle and eventually participate in the Washington State Gambler 500! Soon after, we'll be working with several local NPORA members (our "Piners & Spiners" Team) to personally install the first batch, among other things we've already been field testing. We are very grateful to these folks for the support and a chance to provide real-world feedback to further improve our products. We have also been eagerly developing other products we hope to offer in the near future: · static and adjustable rear control arms and panhard bars · polyurethane motor mounts · swing-gate installation kits · roof-rail mounting system for roof baskets, lighting, storage, etc. We are excited for the coming months as things roll out and our products get put to the test. Going forward we ask that all posts to this thread stay on topic with questions and comments pertaining only to our offered products and services. Stay tuned for up to date progress and product release dates!

Thanks! Stories wise...well, nothing's caught fire and all fingers are still attached, so that's a good start. The fun part is probably when we're tossing ideas around then trying to "construct" an idea on the fly with any crap we happen to have laying around us. But honestly, we've been back-and-forth on numerous ideas, seemingly CADing them up for weeks, and maybe months for the strut spacers. Nothing was really tangible until just the other day. The motor mount spacers were the first thing to get cut, and it was probably more of an experiment for the bend process. They turned out well, needing only a minor tweak or two. The ones shown in the picture are our 2nd attempt, and that's looking like a winner for the final design. The strut spacers...man, we've iterated on so many ideas. They've already seen a slight redesign since our announcement today. All the strut spacer parts in that pic (not shown was another bent piece for the 3" spacer) are actually the very first prototypes for each part, and they turned out great for a first pass! The assembly process that day led to other simple improvements, mainly for manufacturing and installation. Beyond tweaks here and there, it's awesome see things come out as expected.

I lifted my rig in stages- - 2" spacers up front, new KYB struts on stock springs, Warn manual hubs, rear OME MD springs with HPDE spacers, Airlift spring helpers and Bilstein monotube shocks - 4" lift via SFD with a full front end suspension rebuild, front OME HD springs and a missing link -6" lift with new polyurethane bushings on all components front and rear, adjustable upper and lower control arms and LR rear springs paired with bilstein 5160 rear shocks At each point, based on having drove it from the stock condition to its current 6" setup, the ride quality has consistently improved with my current setup driving better than it ever has. Not at all rough and bouncy nor sloppy on the road. The truck flexes well off road with fully intact extended sway bar links front and rear, helping it handle high speed turns on and off-road without any lean or instability. Its luxurious and very comfortable yet purpose built to handle some very demanding driving. Love it. The only issue I've encountered was at the first stage with a 2" spacer lift on stock springs- I was breaking CV's when I had full extension of the front suspension under load. The CV showed no sign of binding when up in the air on jack stands but with the load of the driveline in 4 Low in an off-road scenario the axles would detonate in that same full droop position. I was using, and still am, the brand new lifetime warranty imported CV axles from O'Reilly's. Without that warranty I would have been on the hook for 3 extra CV's. 2 lost from off road over-extension and 1 to a tear in the boot.

I know I can’t wait to get this stuff on my rig. Great looking products guys! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My link is from the guy selling them on here. I'm sure I could jack my truck up with it. It is a fairly thick gauge box steel member. Maybe using the squashed sheet metal pole for a missing link would be a little safer, but I wouldn't count my life on it if it really concerns you. All in all, R50 Pathfinders had pretty poor frontal collision crash ratings anyway. They crumpled at the door pillar and the front passenger compartment partially collapsed while transmitting significant loads to the occupants. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

I don't think there is any way to be convinced that would happen without an engineering review if it concerns you. Just looking at it, by the time the engine block contacted the link hard enough to shear it I think the block would be greatly intruding into the footwell and firewall. Basically the engine depends on the strength of the firewall and floor panel to push it down and underneath. Now you've got a bar with connectors much stronger than sheet metal pinning it back up, and I think it will wedge between the two right into the passenger compartment. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

If you put manual hubs on, the wear to the CV shafts is limited to off roading only. It may devalue the truck, but it's 15 years old, how much is it really worth anyway? In my experience it does wear parts out quicker, but only marginally, and if you buy oem or good quality parts it isn't an issue. So no 20 dollar autozone ball joints or whatever lol. I've never broken a CV ever. I've had a defective one break but that's it. Don't get super throttle happy on climbs and you won't have any problems with them.

Those camber adjustable strut spacers look amazing! Truly a work of art, and mind=blown!

Damn these parts all look so sweet!! I live right up the street from hawaiirish so I’m looking forward to some of this stuff coming out so i can buy some for my rig. Maybe hang out at his shop and shoot the sh*t about all of it! Lol

Bumper brackets Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

It's almost certainly because in a front end collision the engine is designed to drop down and slide under the vehicle instead of being pushed into the cabin. A missing link prevents that from happening. Having said that I went ahead and installed one because in many other accidents it would probably help or have no impact. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

That's incredible! Great job taking the basic SFD to the next level, that's something that's needed to happen for a long time, glad you guys were the ones to do it. Any fun stories about stumbling points in R&D?

Yes, our base plate is the foundation for all of our modular components and it provides 1.75" of lift. It can be used by itself or in conjunction with 3" or 4" strut risers and the appropriate subframe blocks

and If I understood correctly....you’re saying you’re making a lift option that wouldn’t necessarily involve doing s subframe drop?? I’m definitely interested in this option as I have a 2wd Q with lsd that I do a little light wheeling in with my boys to go camping and fishing. Don’t necessarily need the whole sfd but would love a lift for look and better approach angle

Well that’s terrifying. Glad I built a missing link when I did then... it may not be a perfect link, but a quarter-inch steel square tube is plenty robust. I’ve always wanted to find any more ways to reinforce the subframe after such a large drop, this might have motivated me to do so...

Thanks for the shout out! Unfortunately, bumpers from us won't become a reality as soon as we'd like (surely not within the timeframe you're looking), but they are on the long term road map. The Coastal bumper appears to be a great alternative, so we won't hold a grudge if you do go that direction, lol.

Yep, I trimmed the inside of the flair, the bottom of the plastic fender liner, and used an angle grinder to take off a couple inches of metal from the bottom front edge of the fender. If you’re just getting a little rub that you can live with, I agree it may not be worth worrying about. In my case, the combination of larger tires and high offset wheels meant there was no way in heck things would fit without cutting. It wasn’t just rubbing, it was full on binding up against the fender when turning.

Looks really good! I like the subtle approach. That area behind the wheel is where I had to do the most trimming when fitting 33’s. The pinchweld sits further back and really isn’t an issue. It’s the actual lower edge of the fender that sticks out. Pardon the crude drawing, but this pic gives an idea of what I had to remove from the lower fender. It’s barely even noticeable unless you’re sticking your head into the wheel well. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk