Leaderboard

The turn only condition seems like the wheel bearings. The pulsing is a pretty standard symptom of warped rotors. To check the wheel bearings jack up the front to get the tires off the ground, place it on stands and alternate pulling/pushing on the 12 and 6 o'clock positions of the tires. If you feel any play or clunking its likely a wheel bearing If the rotors still have enough material to be turned that can be the cheapest option to cure pulses but I believe (not entirely sure) the pads need to be replaced at the same time becuase they will have worn to fit the irregular rotors

Well, it's one of those dense composite plastics. The only reason it was of concern is because in my older ARB, the plastic cradle has a crack on it and appeared to interfere lightly with a spider gear. The crack doesn't compromise anything, as it's not in a critical location, but it's just one of those things that shouldn't occur (may have been from a prior disassembly by a previous owner?). The TJM engages the locking gear in the same manner as the old ARBs, but the TJM cradle is comprised entirely of steel parts. The new style omits the cradle all together, as all the moving parts have moved to the opposite side of the locker; it's a major improvement over the older style, in my opinion. New bearings are required and are not included with the ARB. The TJM also requires new bearings, but they are included. OEM bearings will not fit either locker. In the ARB Application Guide, lockers RD134, RD135, and RD136 (all H233B lockers, 31 or 33 spline) have a design note indicating the requirement and bearing part numbers: Timken 32010X and ARB 160116 (I think the ARB part is the Timken...yet 2x the cost). That bearing is also apparently used on ARB lockers for some Toyotas. Also, it appears that the Nachi E32010J bearings that came with my TJM have the same specs as the Timken: 50mm ID x 80mm OD x 20mm width (20mm cone width x 15.5mm cup width). The Timken's appear to be the cheapest and most-available option of the three.

Loaded the bikes and some people up and went for a ride yesterday, the weather was amazing. After riding on the AC springs in the rear for a few weeks I love how they ride. They are definitely very stiff but I enjoy it, especially when loaded up the springs sat level, and that was with the bike rack, 4 bikes, and 4 people in the truck. Really enjoying the better handling as well!

Moving on from the Locker. We got our package from TownDawg right on time and tore into the new set of arms Packaging came all the way from up north and got here in good shape. None of the parts were loose or protruding from the box and brackets holding the arms in place were a solid Idea. Taking a closer look, the paint looked clean and nothing was scratched through the shipping process. The welds done on these arm amazing, definitely well built and worth it. They’re also thicker than the oem bars including the panhard bar. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

For the ar32 ARB lights, I have an ARB Sahara bumper with pre placed mounting points for the lights. I began pulling the wiring from the cabin back into the engine bay and from the underside of the bumper, lacked picture of this but it’s pretty simple and self explanatory. I’ll try to mock up some drawings Incase anyone’s curious on doing their own lights. Anyways once all the wiring was pulled and the lights were taken off all i did was repeat the process by mounting the lights, wiring and running the loom along the brake line and into the cabin. From the inside of the cabin we ran a power wire back up into the engine bay again and tucked the wire by the battery to save any future installing for a light bar. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Now came time to center the unit and adjust accordingly for backspacing. Hawaiirish knows more on this than me but I recall the range for backspacing was between .12-.16. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Next step was drilling the air fill hole into the body of the housing. Once the hole was drilled and threaded we placed in the arb unit Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

We put all the pieces back in place and torqued the bolts using a floor press as a mount. I cant seem to find pictures of the bearings we installed. Those were installed however using some lube and a floorpress. We had to purchase Timken bearings however and arb also by chance explains that in their manual. ****Part number**** Timken Bearing #32010X As far as the install, we began by throwing the car up on jack stands and removed the diff from the housing, @hawaiirish made a custom bracket that aligned with the housing holes and aided in keeping the diff in place from rocking left or right during the install. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Its finally here! Sorry for the wait but here we go. Christmas Weekend we did a four day run from Friday-Sunday (Monday to wheel) and covered an RD135 ARB locker, AR32 ARB Intensity Spot lights, adjusted a radio fitment for a double Din media display, light bar pre-wiring, and custom fabricated Static Poly Trailing arms and panhard bar done by [user/]TowndawgR50[user] Beginning with the locker, I intended to purchase a TJM Airlocker during Black Friday. They were priced around 770 and I've read nothing but amazing reviews on them. Literally not a single forum review I read had anything negative to say about the TJM brand locker. I was set on what I wanted and placed my order on JustDifferentials.com only to get a message a few days later that they did not have that locker in-stock or in the country and gave me a blackfriday offer for a fullpriced ARB locker (so not really a deal then). I ended up getting them to match 4wheelparts.com and I ended up with a -ARBRD135 Nissan H233B 33 Spl Air Locker $846.45 /shipped picked up again blackfriday weekend, most sites were surprisingly sold out and had to take orders for shipments to come from the factory. fortunately mine was in warehouse and got delivered in about 4-5 days I heard some concerns on the first gen ARB lockers which made me consider the tjm, however, looking at the second gen locker it seems as if they created a redesign that tackled any of the faulty issues they had in the past. starting with the packaging Now for the actual inner assembly of the locker...

Just want to tag@ferrariowner123 as he and I are going to do this on my truck this spring. Thanks for the info!

I also used a few different sizes of wire brushes, wheels etc to knock off any surface rust along with some rustoleum self etching primer before the undercoating process. You really don't have to use the self etching primer I did just for piece of mind. Mr Cox 96R50-97JR50

Rustoleum Mr Cox 96R50-97JR50

Nice work guys!

That may very well be the case. It could also make your front end look over cluttered and overdone. Either way, I like the your rig! Seems to be only a few well built white pathy’s running around

Interesting that they used plastic in the first place when they know so many of their customers rely on their products in extremely remote and dangerous areas. Good that it's been addressed in newer versions! What do you mean by them not including the required bearings? Did they include wrong ones or not include them at all? Was this a packaging mistake or something that they corrected, or did you have to source parts yourself?

I was pleased with quality of the ARB unit and accessories. I'll always have my concerns about the ARB actuation method, but I do still regard it as reliable. The new units are very stout, and similar in quality internally to the TJM. I chuckled at the cable ties, too, but then again, it's a useful accessory that no one provides (it would be better if they included the required bearings, though). My initial concerns when we were talking about TJM vs ARB was whether ARB was still using a plastic internal cradle from their previous design, which was used to push the locking gear over the side gear. No plastic on the newer design. Once he's got more details, I'll share some of my pros/cons/notes about it and the install. I may even do a separate review/install thread to mirror the TJM review I've got out there.

Christchurch New Zealand (although I can be found between Queenstown, Dunedin & Chch usually). If you're ever over here be prepared to see a LOT of R50s - because they're basically all diesels and as such are practically unkillable. The TD/QD series engines are some of the most reliable ever made IMO. Known for doing half a million+ kms on basic maintenance alone. The rest of the R50 usually falls to bits before the engine haha. I've even seen numerous late-model R50s with blown ZD30s that have been QD32 swapped. Fuse box cover Fuse box insides HID relay box cover HID relay And a shot of the factory twin-battery HID-equipped QD32ETI engine bay... It's very busy and actually quite cramped to work on. Changing the HID bulb - nightmarish.

Some shots from a November trip to Anza-Borrego and the Salton Sea. Great time, but pretty sure it accelerated my control arm bushing disintegration...