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Neutral White BA9S Map Light: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01DNMX832?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title Red BA9S Map Light: https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/bayonet-bulbs/ba9s-led-boat-and-rv-light-bulb-5-smd-led-tower-ba9s-retrofit-96-lumens/2543/4725/#/attributes/13 Warm White 31mm Dome Light: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B075MC9QTZ?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title 74 Wedge Style Dash Light: https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/instrument-cluster-gauge/74-led-bulb-3-smd-led-miniature-wedge-retrofit-car/228/1068/#/attributes/10820 Here are some more pics: Domes from 10 yards Maps from 10 yards Domes (they are quite bright.. any brighter and it would be too much) The domes light up the front a lot Red Map (what it looks like to me without adjusted eyes) Neutral White Map (adjusted color to what I actually see) Dash Lights (I had to put this pic thru Lightroom to get the color adjusted to look like what I actually see) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Initiated Spotter training for my 7yo

I snagged to fender liners and a splash guard at the JY. MY OE splash guard disappeared sometime and I was excited to get another. If it was 1/4 steel it would be perfect, but it’s better than being naked. My fender liners were ripped out in a violent blowout. Nice to have all this back. It should help keep the engine bay clean. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I finally had some time to spend installing my lightbar today. It’s not wired up but it is mounted. Wondering around the hardware store today I came across some hinges for a door in the house and thought I might could re-purposed that. Using a saw Zaw I cut off the loops ground off the rough edges and painted it. I think it looks pretty good. Hey trip to Ace Hardware and I was able to spend a few bucks and find some nuts and bolts that worked and here we are. Now I just need to learn to solder so I can wire up the harness. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My Thursday Night!

Take a look here: Rumble and Shake in 4WD? https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?share_fid=45554&share_tid=43858&url=http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?/topic/43858-Rumble-and-Shake-in-4WD%3F&share_type=t Just in case you want to give it a good read, I was having the same issue as you for a long time, and that’s my thread on it. It was a very large discussion, so reading through all of it might take some time, but I ended up posting my results and fix, analysis, and all that in the final post. I even used a go-pro under the chassis to find the problem myself, and unfortunately, the result only lead me astray. Like I said, read through it, we really touched on every possible option for what would cause the issue. There’s 132 replies worth of information and troubleshooting, so get a list ready! Good luck!

OK, this Trick/workaround worked on my daughters 98 pathfinder! I connected a Jump starter battery pack to her battery terminals, No Key In The Ignition. I found a fuse that was HOT Fuse 25, (Labeled ELEC B) in the fuse box that is located under the drivers side dash). I pulled fuse 25, the left terminal as you are looking up at it, is the hot side. I pulled fuse 8, (labeled METER) it is in the center row of the fuse box, second one down. The right side terminal of fuse 8 is the load side which feeds the instrument cluster. I used a jumper wire with alligator clips on each end. On each end I clipped on a paper clip. I stuck the paper clip of one end of the jumper into the left(hot) side of fuse 25 and the other end into the right (load) side of fuse 8. SUCCESS. All of the idiot lights lit up and the Odometer lit up showing the mileage! You do not have to connect a jumper starter to the battery terminals. You can take the same jump start pack, or a cordless drill battery, then get a second alligator clip jumper wire and connect the negative side of the battery to a decent grounding point. I used the door hinge bolt. Use the alligator clip jumper set up mentioned above to connect the positive side of the power source to the right side of fuse 8 . It works, I used a Dewalt 14 vdc drill battery as well for this trick. I wasn't brave enough to try an 18-20v cordless tool battery on her pathfinder. Maybe I will try a junkyard find in the future. I think onespiritbrain will find out wires #12 and #2 from the instrument wiring connector will power up the cluster as well if it is removed from the vehicle. Remember, pins #12 (hot) and #2 (ground) are located where the white 16 pin connector plugs into the back of the instrument cluster. If you cut the cluster wiring harness off a few inches when you remove the cluster from a junkyard find, it will make it even easier to connect your power source. Just strip those two wires back a little and connect your power source. A 9 volt battery powered up the idiot light's, but NOT the odometer. That would have been nice if it worked. The heart of this instrument cluster is called the "Unified Meter Control Unit". This is what we are powering up. It essentially is the brains of the instrument cluster. The mileage is stored in the instrument cluster, NOT the ECU. Hope this helps somebody. It took you longer to read this write up than it will take you to perform this trick/workaround. UPDATE: 18-20 VDC portable tool batteries work as well. I used a Milwaukee M18 battery today on an 04 Xterra and it worked fine. Someone took all of the fuses out of the Xterra along with the steering wheel and ignition switch. I just grounded the negative side of the battery to some metal, and touched both sides of every fuse socket with the positive side of the battery's jumper until the idiot lights/odometer lit up.

It looks like fuse #8 powers the instrument cluster, which Nissan call's the "Unified Control Meter", as per the FSM electrical drawing I found online. (page EL62) It look's like there is a White 16 pin connector on the back of the cluster. It indicates Pin #12 is the power input and pin #2 is the ground. I may jumper power to fuse #8 tonight on my daughter's pathfinder to see if it energizes the odometer. If it works I'll try a 9v battery to see if that works even.

I was able to find the fuse and replace it. Problem solved. Now I think I want to share away from all these eBay LED I purchased. I’m nervous. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Maybe this will help someone else. I did not find it until I had already gone through all my fuses. Oh well it’s fixed. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I had a brush guard on a suburban and it failed on a low speed impact. I have a full bumper and bull bar/stinger on my pathy.

I'd be inclined to try the figure 8s in reverse at low speed, but I'd be concerned about damaging something elsewhere in the system by beating on it too far beyond that. If the backwards routine doesn't do it, it may be time to just drop the case and pull it apart. That said, having looked through the section in the manual that covers that box, I can understand not wanting anything to do with opening it up. TF-145 of the '03 R50 FSM has a procedure for looking into "tight corner braking symptom," which I'm guessing is just a really stupid way of saying "torque bind" or "stuck in 4x." Looks like the procedure boils down to checking for power from pin 34 in the connector to ground. If it's there, check the clutch pressure switch circuit; if it's not, tear the thing down and check the control valve assembly, 4WD solenoid valve, 2-4WD shift solenoid valve, clutch piston, and clutch assembly. If you jack up one of the front wheels with the engine off, can you turn that wheel without moving the truck? If not, the problem's probably in the clutch or maybe the piston. Looks like wet clutches on motorbikes tend to lock up from sitting, but that's because they sit with the clutch fully engaged; if I'm understanding this thing right, the clutch should be disengaged with the truck shut off, so that doesn't make a whole lot of sense. If turning the truck off releases the clutch, I'd suspect a hydraulic fault (solenoid stuck open). The lack of codes suggests it's probably not wiring, except that the last step in the troubleshooting is to check the connector for loose or damaged pins, so maybe have a look at that as well before tearing the whole case apart. Good luck! If you haven't yet, you can get the US manuals here. I'm not sure how much will hold true for your Aussie model, though.

Here it is. And here’s a cool feature $100 bucks at Wally World. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Last think was that I was able to snag an OE transmission cooler from a QX4. I even got all the lines and brackets. It was originally used in line with the radiator, but I’m going to bypass the radiator altogether I think. I also have a trans cooler from a 90s Ford Explorer. If it fits the brackets I may use it with these OE brackets and hardlines. We will see. That’s a project for another day. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I also had a bad headlight fixture. As you can see below it looks like water got inside and rusted the bottom or something. Made it not only look bad but very dim. So off to the JY I went and was lucky enough to find one that looked better. And installed it today. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nothing very dramatic, but a little. In installed some roof rack bars from a 2001 QX4 and a whole bunch of rail nuts so I can always have tie down points. Until I get a basket this should help. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Try this one https://www.walmart.com/ip/Lifetime-55-Quart-High-Performance-Cooler-Grey-90820/850043843 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nope these came from overseas. Got them from a guy in Canada. There the real deal. I've got a pic somewhere of my old headlights illuminated. If you look closely you can see XENON printed on the glass. Mr Cox 96R50-97JR50

JDM. Also on my truck (which is entirely JDM with a diesel ?)

Hi, I have been doing some maintenance and repairs the last couple of months to the pathy (260.000 km): - Changed front struts, replacing the 10 yrs old rancho 5000 with the standard kyb's. - Changed rear struts with Bilstein 33185569 to replace 7 yrs old procomp's. - Rear door and window (tailgate) lift supports replaced with monroe 901683 and stabillus SG371001 - Replaced front driver window motor with ACDELCO 11M235. - Replaced reverse switch with nissan one (32005-21U1B)... now I have a backup lights!. While I was doing that I replaced the manual transmission bushing. - Changed front original stabilizer links (Sankei 555 brand). - Repleced broken antenna mast with nissan one (28215-9B000) - Replaced tailgate Nissan emblem (90891-5W500)..vandalized some time ago. - Front brake pads replaced with Akebono ASP691. Previous set of Akebono's lasted 75.000 km (!). - Rear brake shoes replaced & drum resurfaced ( at least 110.000Km without service)