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Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/21/2018 in Posts

  1. It was the oxygen sensors!!!! Runs like a top! It’s like a dark cloud has cleared from above me. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    2 points
  2. Nothing. Spacers thicker than about 1" which are placed between the body and the top of the strut allow the suspension to travel beyond the max operating angle of the CV and causes them to break. It seems some brands of CV axles are less tolerant of high angles than others. If you want a lift greater than 1" and want reliability, replace the coil springs. I have wheeled my '97 for almost 20 years with a 2" coil spring lift and I have NEVER broken a CV joint.
    1 point
  3. Apologies for digging up such an old post, here are some pictures of the original kit I built in 2005 and the two prototypes that were sent to Colorado. The pictures should give someone an idea of how the parts are made for duplication. As was said before, the hardest part is the strut spacers which require precise angles to achieve original geometry. Drop lift pics from 2005. I do not recommend the steering spacer block! http://overlandtrucks.com/system-f/drop lift/ Here are pics of the two prototype lift kits I made and sent to Colorado (in 2009). http://overlandtrucks.com/system-f/lift_kit/ This one has a good picture of the Honda steer u-joint that should be used:
    1 point
  4. Hell, just get a sawzall and cut the whole roof off while you're at it!
    1 point
  5. It's an interesting idea but installing one is going to be your biggest challenge. Sealing will be difficult but possible since you would need a two-part refrigerator door seal (to keep the water out) that goes all the way around the window. The problem with that is how you attach the vinyl seal to the canvas/ nylon since glue and epoxy won't work (heat seal maybe).... that should get you a water proof seal. I think I would recommend a transparent glass portion instead of translucent vinyl but then you would have added weight, fragility and storage issues. Interesting idea though!!
    1 point
  6. You'd have no visibility out the back when it's on, water getting in whether it's on or not, and also wind noise. What were you hoping for? For what it's worth, you can drive with the rear window open. I drove halfway across a mountain pass like that once (not sure if I forgot to close it or it didn't latch or what). Finally I realized that the increased wind noise and the unusually bright image in the rearview mirror might be connected!
    1 point
  7. First of all welcome, sounds like you have a lot of questions! I'd advise you to just expect some feedback on the engine/tranny removal question here, and go ahead and start a new thread with the rest, where you can post updates and further questions pertaining to your Pathy, since this one is dedicated to system_f's rig!
    1 point
  8. My Pathfinder has 130,xxx miles and it still has the OEM struts. Just recently replaced the lower ball joints about 2,000 miles ago. I’m not going to be getting the lift for awhile but I want an outline for everything. I think the information that you gave me was amazing. I think I’m going to just go with some cool springs all the day ya around with some OME shocks in the read, and some new struts in the front. With all the camber alignment bolts and small things, etc. Thanks for all the information guys!
    1 point
  9. I think I found the binding in my front end, and it's not the centerlink. I removed the centerlink to check if it was bent or something, turned the steering, and found that it still bound up like crazy towards the middle even with nothing attached to it. Then I remembered that I read a Beer Garage writeup on adjusting that box and had a go at it at the same time as I put the centerlink in. I didn't adjust it very far, and if felt alright when I tested it then, but apparently the box didn't appreciate it. Backing it off to where it started doesn't help, and even backing it way off only slightly lessens the binding, which is not a good sign. After looking at the exploded diagrams in the manual, I'm not sure that adjuster even had anything to do with steering slop in the first place. So, yeah, apparently I'm a dumbass and I roached my steering box. Anyone recommend one reman over another?
    1 point
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