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How many miles do your current struts have on them? The reason it's generally advised to change them at the same time is because, in order to install a coil lift, you have to totally disassemble the strut. While you're doing that much work, you may as well put new on generally. KYB struts with OEM Nissan bearings are a very popular and good option as far as that. Rear shocks only take 2 fasteners to change, so it's up to you when to change them, however longer rear shocks will allow you to take advantage of the additional suspension flex lift coils will make possible. In addition, using a nice shock like Bilstein will improve ride greatly. As far as spacer vs coil, it depends on your intended use of the vehicle, budget, and what you want as far as ride quality. There's a lot more to consider than it seems at the surface. For spacers they will all function the same, so I always recommend Steve's product (sfcreation.com) as he's a long-time member here on the forum and I personally enjoyed his products on my rig. For coils there's two primary options: Old Man Emu or AC. OME (Not to be confused with OEM!) is produced by ARB in Australia and give phenomenal rode quality on and off road, however at less of a lift; right around 1.5". AC will generally ride harsher and may cause your front struts to "top-out" potentially causing them to wear prematurely. However, they provide a true 2" of lift and can take heavier loads better. They're great for a rig laden down with skidplates, rock sliders, and bumpers, or just anybody who doesn't mind a little harder ride who also wants a good amount of lift. My personal recommendation based upon my own experience is a 1" spacer lift paired with OME springs, however this is making out what the R50 platform can take at 2.5" of lift and can make alignment a bit of a PITA. Here's a breakdown of some things to consider: Spacers: Good: -cheap -simple -you can add/remove to level out your ride, especially as you change out springs -maintais factory ride quality Bad: -changes the location of the range of motion of the CV's, which means that at full droop they could bind (I can explain this more if you're confused, I may even do a write up on it with diagrams since it tends to confuse newbies!) -maintain factory ride quality Springs: Good: -stiffer ride/better load carrying capacity -keeps CV's in stock range of motion (again, I can explain of you'd like) so no binding issues Bad: -in some (definitely not all, don't let it scare you!) cases may damage struts -stiffer ride -more expensive Hopefully that's helpful for you. I think it's fairly comprehensive, but it's late and I just got done with 4 days of working on my 4Runner, so I'm tired haha.

So I've ordered a locker from TRE4x4.com, it took about a week and a half to get to me in NZ. The ordering is through their region rep, the service is great, but unless you know of someone else who has bought one then it could be a little nerving doing the paypal transaction The details Front Locker, part TR 202, I also got their compressor as well as I wasn't sure how the locker gets the right amount of air. The locker comes with a fee stickers and a manual for the locker and compressor wiring as well. I'm waiting for the weekend for a mate to help me install (has a TRE locker in his Suzuki himself). Photos are a bit of a mission on here, but will try post some up.

Found a 2004 LE with the Qx4 interior! I think the platinum came with it. AWD knob, and more importantly the vastly more attractive QX4 gauge cluster and center stack..... P0507? Idle air control leak? https://www.ksl.com/auto/listing/4951822?ad_cid=1 tempted to go offer the guy $3k....

My Pathfinder has 130,xxx miles and it still has the OEM struts. Just recently replaced the lower ball joints about 2,000 miles ago. I’m not going to be getting the lift for awhile but I want an outline for everything. I think the information that you gave me was amazing. I think I’m going to just go with some cool springs all the day ya around with some OME shocks in the read, and some new struts in the front. With all the camber alignment bolts and small things, etc. Thanks for all the information guys!

Thank y’all very much! I have an update. So I didn’t have the plug seated all the way on the sensor. I reached up there and plugged it in but no dice. The issue persists, this time without the P0335 code. I got a better idea about what’s going on and got a new code also, P0300. It’s misfiring for a 20 second period then it clears up to be completely normal for 20 seconds and so on, back and forth. It’s not drivable like this because the power loss during the bad 20 seconds is fairly severe. I am wondering if I crossed up those vacuum lines and little solenoid that go to the fuel pressure regulator and when the solenoid opens or whatever it cuts fuel and drastically reduces it? You help is VERY appreciated. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Great write up. I might just add that over the last year it has been discovered that Land Rover D90 front springs work well in the rear of the R50 & are very reasonably priced. You’ll want to find that thread (search LR Springs). The one thing I’m not sure of though is if anyone has only achieved 2-2.5” of lift. Micah used the ones we thought would do that but reported getting more like 3.5-4” of lift in the rear.

No they aren't necessary. But this is an easy time to replace them if they are more than maybe 6 years old. I bought KYB branded struts which is the OEM manufacturer. They are just a bit cheaper. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

She lives!!!! I had to shim the starter out some more... it was constantly spinning the starter and grinding a spot on it... it was very hot. I’ve also got coolant leaking from somewhere on the driver side. I can’t find it at the moment.. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The service manual says that's a theft warning horn. I assume that means it's what makes noise when the car alarm goes off. The WD21 alarms had plastic sirens in a similar position but on the driver's side. Hopefully the flexplate didn't move enough to cause problems apart from being too close to the starter. At least you found the problem before you tried to start it!

Sorry for the slow update, locker was installed as saod above, took about an hour with a rattle gun. Just had one issue with the locker not having a thread inside the centre for the axle shaft to tighten to. A threaded spider gear is on its way and should solve the issue. Jenny from TRE has fantastic customer service, very responsive and makes little glitches or trouble shooting stress free.

D_Bomb17 Thanks for link to cardiagn ! Took a few minutes but found my exact model. Just have to download each section at a Time but FREE and adjustable. Thanks again, Big help https://cardiagn.com/1995-nissan-truck-pathfinder-d21-wd21-series-service-manual-pdf/

I have a bone stock 95 wd21 with a turbo running on 12 lbs of boost. With proper fueling and ignition control you can get quite a bit out of these reliably. Pistons are the first thing to go but the rest of the long block can handle north of 500. I don't. Have any Dyno numbers but I'm guessing mine is in the 225-250 hp range and it makes these things a blast to drive. Sent from my Tank Xtreme Pro using Tapatalk

Do you have the BOSE stereo? If not, these adapters work: http://www.crutchfield.com/p_120727400/Metra-72-7400-Speaker-Wiring-Harness.html I'm not sure if the BOSE system uses the same factory speaker connectors as the non-BOSE system.