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Oof. Yeah, that's deep! You're lucky if that module's the only thing that responded poorly. I have not heard of any other model using the ATX14A automatic transfer (which I assume is what you have, given it's got a control unit). I've seen two variants of that, one with just a heater knob on the dash for 2h/auto/4h/4l, and one with a knob or buttons for 2/auto/4 and a manual shifter for high/low. I imagine you'll need to match the donor to the control style that yours has to get the right module. The case numbers didn't get me anywhere, but might be something you can confirm against a possible replacement at the wrecking yard. Hopefully they're not coded in or something dumb like that.

It is possible to fit the D21 sealed-beam headlights. You will need the buckets, grille, and corner/parking lights, and you'll need to change the light plugs. (It's generally recommended to build a relay harness for these rigs anyway, both to preserve the switch and to make sure the lights are getting full power.) I'm not crazy about the look, but it does open up a lot of options for better lights. I've seen people swap LED pods in place of the factory fog lights. Could be done cleanly if you can find the right size of pod. I had Hella 500FFs on my front bumper for a while. They were great when they were aimed right, but they wouldn't stay aimed right. I've got a cheap lightbar now, which does not have that issue. It's not a 1:1 replacement for the Hellas (it's more of a flood light), but it's good for spotting deer off to the sides. I've got it wired so it only works with the high beams, so I don't have to deal with two separate switches when there's oncoming traffic. For the hood vents, sounds like you're talking about something like Raptor grille lights. I haven't seen it done, but I don't see why it wouldn't work. Might be tough to make it look intentional, though. There are holes all the way through the vents, but they're about the size of coin slots, and the hole in the hood behind them rests against the rubber strip that goes over the core support. I think my door seals let in more air than the hood vents do.

Hey guys, I'm putting a 2 inch lift on my ride. Any idea how big of tire can I run without rubbing?

Yeah, those "fake" vents are not fake. They are functional and I recommend leaving them be. As for lights I used a old brush guard to mount two driving lights and two fog lights from IPF. They were awesome!

Hello everyone, I've been a long time lurker but this is my first post. Let me give you a bit of background information to help with the topic I'm about to discuss. I've owned a 2000 R50 Series 2 VG33E Pathfinder for about 13 years. It's an amazing 4WD and my first car. I've spent a lot of time over the years upgrading it bit by bit. Living in Australia, there isn't much aftermarket support for the R50 Pathfinder, so getting parts has been difficult. Back in 2022, I was out camping with a few mates and made the stupid decision to cross a rather large section of water on the way to the campsite. Long story short, I misjudged how deep it was and what the bottom was like. I should have walked it, but I didn't, and my pride and joy got stuck and filled with water. By some miracle, my engine survived, but both diffs were filled with water, and my car put itself into limp mode. I ended up getting it to the blacktop and got the old girl towed home. It took me the better part of a month to clean the mud out of the inside. Fast forward to one month ago, I was planning another camping trip, but when I tried to test 4low, it wouldn't engage. I have Warn free-wheeling hubs, so I took it to an auto electrician, and they found that my transfer case module was full of mud and corrosion. It turns out the module was destroyed. I wanted to know if the transfer case module is the same for all years with the R50 Pathfinder that has the VG33E engine, or are they different? Can I use a module from a different model 4WD with the same engine? I have linked a few pictures of mine. https://photos.app.goo.gl/NZq9DocHzDwZQTQQ7 https://photos.app.goo.gl/vmQQLPsszmnPMaFp7 https://photos.app.goo.gl/3fXHs3jQkAFvvTWw9 https://photos.app.goo.gl/tqZ9BmJyY76kYPp96

Hello, I'm in need of some help I've got a 97 pathfinder that keeps failing emissions for NOx i was get a few evap codes replaced pretty much the whole system and now the only thing that pops up is lean to rich threshold monitor ID(MID)$06 Component ID-$03 Value-0 min-3 max-0 fail anyone have any thoughts on this

Heyo yall, my first post so I don't know how this will go. But does/has anyone messed around with more on the custom side of lighting attachments such as putting amber strips in the fake vents on the front of the hood or custom headlights? I'm still fairly new to the Pathfinder scene, coming from trucks but picked up mouse (my 94 Pathy) for $500 and wanna attempt a overland/pre-runner build and when it comes to lighting, aside from pods I'm not finding much out there. That is aside from lights for the D21, but I'm not sure how they fit with the WD21 body.

okay sounds good. Ill do some research. currently working out a fuel issue as well. My fuel gauge reads empty only when its cold outside but when its warm in the air it works fine. tryna unfskcerate it. also my pathfinder spins the front driveshaft, but my cv's dont spin. is that still a issue with my hubs you think?

once the truck warms up, i have 1st and 2nd gear...i went to the junk yard and saw that the xterras all had tcm's, under the dash, near the brake pedal...i also had to switch out the original stock shifter, since the cable, was too short...i used once from an xterra...but i didn't reconnect, all of those wires either...so maybe that has something to do with this issue, of it going into limp mode...On another note, it runs GREAT!!! until it warms up...Shifts really smooth

Pretty much just R&R. The Allen bolts may fight you, mine were stuck pretty good. The service manual wants you to select new snap rings of the correct thickness to set the end-float on the CV axles (and the tension on the seals at the back of the hub), but I don't think anyone actually does that. Hawairish started a thread comparing different brands of hubs. Even the cheap-looking ones he looked at seemed pretty decent inside. The OE manual hubs are supposed to be the strongest, but good luck finding a set of those. Warns are popular. I'm running Mile Markers on mine, and apart from the chrome plating being crap, they've been great. I also posted a video in that thread (second page) from when I replaced mine, showing what's involved.

Ditto on that. "Easy button" is disconnect the fuel supply hose from the rail and place the end in a fuel container, pull the fuel pump relay, and run 12V straight to terminal 5 to let the fuel pump do the work for you. Be sure to go back with a new fuel filter, too.

thanks for the quick reply, thats what I was lead too from what research ive done. Is it just a remove and replace or is there more that goes into it? im looking to buy manual hubs but im not trying to spend very much. all im finding i some cheap ebay junk and super expensive oreilly junk

I'd siphon out the gas and replace it along with a bottle of fuel injector cleaner before doing anything else. Gas goes bad. Anything older than 6 months should be tossed; otherwise you can experience some of the issues you are seeing. Even if it's not the issue I wouldn't start trying to diagnose problems while running on old gas.

Excellent info as always, slart, thank you!

Looks like I was wrong about the knock sensor, and Peejay is correct--code 34 is for electrical faults only. The computer does not throw a code for actual knocking. The electrical checks for the knock sensor are pretty simple. Might as well chase those down while you're after the other three. I suspect you'll find a common fault behind all four--maybe a shared ground that's come loose/corroded, maybe harness damage. Come to think of it, the knock sensor grounds to 35M. The MAF grounds to 35M. The transistor for the coil grounds to 34M, which is right next to 35M. If those are loose/corroded/chewed, that could be three of your four codes right there. The harness diagram in the '90 manual is just this side of useless (they tried to show three different engine options in one diagram). The knock sensor diagnostics in the '95 manual show 34 and 35M near the coil, but I don't see any grounds in that neighborhood on my '93. I think 34 and 35M might be the two at the front of the upper intake, on either side of the Allen bolt, near the coolant temp sensors. Loosen, clean as needed, retighten, clear codes, see if that gets you anywhere. The injectors are grounded through the computer, so they shouldn't have anything to do with those two ground points. The same mouse might've chewed on that harness too, I guess. Or maybe the previous owner parked it because an injector was dead. Looks like your understanding of it was bang on! But here's the long version. The knock sensor is piezoelectric, similar to a guitar pickup or a microphone. It allows the computer to "listen" to the engine. If the computer "hears" pinging/knocking, it retards the ignition timing to prevent engine damage. It does not set a code when it does this. I don't know how long it waits to reset the timing back to normal afterwards. EF&EC-72 ('90 manual) says that code 34 is set when the knock sensor circuit is open or shorted. The diagnostic procedures for code 34 ('90 and '95) and P0325 ('97) are just electrical checks on the sensor and its wiring. Looks like the computer also pulls timing when that code is set. I guess it's playing it safe while it can't tell if the engine is pinging or not. The '90, '95, '97, and '03 manuals all make clear that the knock sensor is not used in normal operation. It's just there to save the engine when something else goes wrong. Sorta like a smoke detector.

The fuel gauge was simply the sending unit. It is available from Nissan. It is pricey though I pulled the entire unit out of the gas tank of a junk yard 94 pathfinder... $20 I just have to make time to change it out - but I have to fix an ignition starting problem before tryign to fix anything else I have to be abe to turn the key every time and it start - like when it was brand new .. its a relay wiring problem - its not the starter relay - i i think it has to do with the 3 relays on top - in the fuse box - the far right relay - my mechanic friend - says probably best to just reroute through the alarm / ignition to starter and put in better relays and maybe even put in a Start Button but you have to work with the alarm system this ignition starting problem is a know problem -- numerous years ago - it happened 3-4 times a year - now its daily - sometimes I have to Push Start it and thats not easy by yourself so i cant even go to grocery store - not knowing if its going to start when to go to leave the parking lot.. i havent pulled out all my hair -- this is a great 4x4 with ABS thats has saved me numerous times .. 5 speed - runs strong and even stronger with the way I built the new engine

Negative - I have not been able to fix the odometer not turning problem - although the Digital trip odometer has worked sometimes again .. it also has stopped turning I am thinking the problem is at the Rearend -- ABS 47900-92G20 - Abs wheel speed sensor (rear) My ABS light is now on and my ABS is not working the part is very pricey - I think 300$ - not sure if Nissan can even get it anymore this is a serious problem - I have no idea how many miles i am driving - risk of running out gas - plus i still have the ignition problem and my gas gauge isnt working I just built a New Engine last year and I cant drive this anywhere because - no gas gauge / no odometer turning I can drive it to work and back - like 6 times then fill up - but I cant do road trips to go camping or to the beach - no mileage reading .. but i have an ignition problem - so thats #1 problem to fix right now this all sucks ..

I've never found a service manual for the Terrano. But one of the guys (pretty sure it was Ekim Naelcm) on the FB page made an R50 auto trans work in his Terrano, and IIRC all it took was swapping over the bellhousing and having a torque converter made, which means it's (at least a variant of) the same RE4R01A that's in the North America-spec gas-engine trucks. The '95 US manual specs 8.5 liters (9 US quarts) for the 4WD, 7.9 (8-3/8) for the 2WD. It calls for "Genuine Nissan ATF" or Dexron II. The R50 (which has an upgraded variant of the same slushbox) service manuals spec Nissan Matic D, so I assume that's what "Genuine Nissan ATF" means. I used bottom-shelf generic dex-merc in mine and it didn't seem to mind. I flushed mine by putting the cooler lines in a bucket, running the engine until it stopped pumping brown fluid into the bucket, adding fresh fluid through the dipstick tube, and repeating that process until the fluid coming out was recognizable as the fluid I was putting in. Dropping the pan looked like a PITA, and I'd been told that the filter is more of a screen than a filter anyway, so I didn't bother with it. I have since seen a picture of a trans filter full of what looked like clutch material--not sure what else was wrong with that transmission, or how common that is. Might be worth checking the filter (and wiping the sludge out of the pan) for peace of mind if nothing else. Be careful filling the transmission. The level changes a lot as it warms up, and you're supposed to check with it warm. I thought I had it close, warmed it up, and had to drain about a quart to get it back down to the mark.

Sounds like the hubs weren't locked. The stock hubs on these are supposed to lock automatically, but they're not known for their reliability. Manual hubs are a huge upgrade and an easy mod.

The fuel gauge was simply the sending unit. It is available from Nissan. It is pricey though

Well, got the passenger's side valve cover installed, thanks for all you all's help! Ran out of time, so I'll hafta test it tomorrow, if all is well, I'll move on to the driver's side. Special thanks to slart, whom I "questioned", about the grommets expanding to fill the cup washers. How did you all know that they do expand, and I didn't? Well, admittedly, the first time I replaced the gaskets, I did not replace the grommets--I didn't even know they were a replaceable thing! Live and learn! (Oh, I recommend giving the good folks at belmetric a holler for your fastener needs, their customer service was top notch in helping me find the hardware I wanted!)

Slart, would you mind demystifying the knock sensor operation? It was my understanding that when the sensor senses knock (for whatever "normal" reasons), the sensor sends a signal to the ECU to retard the timing to eliminate the knock. Does this scenario always produce a code/check engine light, letting the driver know that "uh-oh, something is causing knock, better check it out"? Or is the system "supposed" to only trigger a code/light if there is an issue with the knock sensor/circuit? Thanks!

(Since the fuel gauge came up as part of this thread...) For those of us experiencing problems with the fuel gauge (not reading, reading intermittently), do you all recommend to start troubleshooting with the sending unit or the instrument cluster/gauge itself?

Chances are the transmission will be the same. The filter could be different. Chances are the fluid is Matic D. That is still available from Nissan. Personally I would just do the basic drain and fill.

Hey Guys, Looking to do an automatic transmission service on my 93 Terrano with the diesel TD27t. Most of the guides I am seeing are for the gas variants, is the transmission the same between the gas and diesel models? is there a filter as well to replace? and how much fluid should I purchase? Thanks!