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Yeah, I think that's the same knob that's on the US trucks with the all-mode. Anyone here with the all-mode box want to check the numbers on your module? Long shot that the US-spec computer would be the same.

I have considered converting my vehicle to a manual transfer, but the amount of work involved is overwhelming. Unfortunately, I am not skilled enough to do it myself and there are no shops near me that would take on the task. I am hoping to find the right transfer case module, but it seems like a long shot. It might be best to cut my losses and replace my vehicle, even though I really don't want to. It's starting to look like one of those 'if all the stars align' situations

yeah this is the 4WD Knob that's currently on my R50 sorry for the quality picture I grabbed this off google https://photos.app.goo.gl/R3LXPNDLNDSL6i4G8

You are very welcome. Chris.

I have no idea what fits what, but I did a little more poking around. I found a whole lot of modules that start with 33084, for a bunch of different vehicles and transmissions, but none with your full PN. Looks like 33084 says what it's for, and the rest of the part number says what it fits. I couldn't find any transfer modules listed for an '00 R50, or any year R50 that I searched, which is weird. But yeah, given how many flavors there are of this thing, I'm guessing the numbers do need to match up. IMO you've got two options at this point, and both involve scouring wrecking yards. Option one, find the same-ish year R50, same engine, same transmission, same transfer case, and hope it's got the same module in it. Option two, find an R50 with the TX10A manual transfer, and grab that, the shift linkage, the center console, probably the trans tunnel plate too if they're built that way, and convert yours to a transfer case that doesn't need no stinkin' computer. I don't know for sure that having that module gone wouldn't take something else out, but if it drives around as-is, and everything else seems to work, then hopefully it won't mind. I am still assuming I know what transfer case you've got. Does the knob have an "auto" position? I haven't heard of any other transfers being used on these, but Nissan does seem to enjoy changing weird things for no apparent reason.

He answered it all, thank you.

Oddly with duck duck go browser the search bar never came up, works fine with chrome. But thank you for the response, it was what I wanted.

Yeah I'm really surprised I didn't kill the engine, I heard the VG33E is pretty reliable I didn't really believe it until that day

Do you happen to know if the transfer case control module for the R50 Pathfinder is the same for all Pathfinders that are equipped with the VG33E engine? I have come across many transfer case control modules online, but the first five numbers on the part number are the same, while the last five numbers are different on most of them. They do mention that these modules are for 2005 models and up, so I am assuming they are meant for the VQ35DE engine and might not be compatible with mine.

Okay so I'm just starting to get into it and before I go breaking any of the cat mounting studs I wanted to ask you. If you break one of the studs, you can't use the two nut method to extract them, so how did you extract the broken stud? Also, are you saying you extracted and replaced all of the studs, even if they didn't break? I was just planning to replace only the bolts and nuts if none of the studs break. Got the driver side resonator off, here’s what the outlet side of the Bank 2 cat looks like: I think that is slag meaning melted sections of honeycomb. No telling what the inlet looks like.

Hey there TexasJim, this topic has been covered quite a bit in the past, the search feature on this site is very helpful as well. Now with that said here is a link to a thread that will give you some insight on the subject. Chris.

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Oof. Yeah, that's deep! You're lucky if that module's the only thing that responded poorly. I have not heard of any other model using the ATX14A automatic transfer (which I assume is what you have, given it's got a control unit). I've seen two variants of that, one with just a heater knob on the dash for 2h/auto/4h/4l, and one with a knob or buttons for 2/auto/4 and a manual shifter for high/low. I imagine you'll need to match the donor to the control style that yours has to get the right module. The case numbers didn't get me anywhere, but might be something you can confirm against a possible replacement at the wrecking yard. Hopefully they're not coded in or something dumb like that.

It is possible to fit the D21 sealed-beam headlights. You will need the buckets, grille, and corner/parking lights, and you'll need to change the light plugs. (It's generally recommended to build a relay harness for these rigs anyway, both to preserve the switch and to make sure the lights are getting full power.) I'm not crazy about the look, but it does open up a lot of options for better lights. I've seen people swap LED pods in place of the factory fog lights. Could be done cleanly if you can find the right size of pod. I had Hella 500FFs on my front bumper for a while. They were great when they were aimed right, but they wouldn't stay aimed right. I've got a cheap lightbar now, which does not have that issue. It's not a 1:1 replacement for the Hellas (it's more of a flood light), but it's good for spotting deer off to the sides. I've got it wired so it only works with the high beams, so I don't have to deal with two separate switches when there's oncoming traffic. For the hood vents, sounds like you're talking about something like Raptor grille lights. I haven't seen it done, but I don't see why it wouldn't work. Might be tough to make it look intentional, though. There are holes all the way through the vents, but they're about the size of coin slots, and the hole in the hood behind them rests against the rubber strip that goes over the core support. I think my door seals let in more air than the hood vents do.

Hey guys, I'm putting a 2 inch lift on my ride. Any idea how big of tire can I run without rubbing?

Yeah, those "fake" vents are not fake. They are functional and I recommend leaving them be. As for lights I used a old brush guard to mount two driving lights and two fog lights from IPF. They were awesome!

Hello everyone, I've been a long time lurker but this is my first post. Let me give you a bit of background information to help with the topic I'm about to discuss. I've owned a 2000 R50 Series 2 VG33E Pathfinder for about 13 years. It's an amazing 4WD and my first car. I've spent a lot of time over the years upgrading it bit by bit. Living in Australia, there isn't much aftermarket support for the R50 Pathfinder, so getting parts has been difficult. Back in 2022, I was out camping with a few mates and made the stupid decision to cross a rather large section of water on the way to the campsite. Long story short, I misjudged how deep it was and what the bottom was like. I should have walked it, but I didn't, and my pride and joy got stuck and filled with water. By some miracle, my engine survived, but both diffs were filled with water, and my car put itself into limp mode. I ended up getting it to the blacktop and got the old girl towed home. It took me the better part of a month to clean the mud out of the inside. Fast forward to one month ago, I was planning another camping trip, but when I tried to test 4low, it wouldn't engage. I have Warn free-wheeling hubs, so I took it to an auto electrician, and they found that my transfer case module was full of mud and corrosion. It turns out the module was destroyed. I wanted to know if the transfer case module is the same for all years with the R50 Pathfinder that has the VG33E engine, or are they different? Can I use a module from a different model 4WD with the same engine? I have linked a few pictures of mine. https://photos.app.goo.gl/NZq9DocHzDwZQTQQ7 https://photos.app.goo.gl/vmQQLPsszmnPMaFp7 https://photos.app.goo.gl/3fXHs3jQkAFvvTWw9 https://photos.app.goo.gl/tqZ9BmJyY76kYPp96

Hello, I'm in need of some help I've got a 97 pathfinder that keeps failing emissions for NOx i was get a few evap codes replaced pretty much the whole system and now the only thing that pops up is lean to rich threshold monitor ID(MID)$06 Component ID-$03 Value-0 min-3 max-0 fail anyone have any thoughts on this

Heyo yall, my first post so I don't know how this will go. But does/has anyone messed around with more on the custom side of lighting attachments such as putting amber strips in the fake vents on the front of the hood or custom headlights? I'm still fairly new to the Pathfinder scene, coming from trucks but picked up mouse (my 94 Pathy) for $500 and wanna attempt a overland/pre-runner build and when it comes to lighting, aside from pods I'm not finding much out there. That is aside from lights for the D21, but I'm not sure how they fit with the WD21 body.

okay sounds good. Ill do some research. currently working out a fuel issue as well. My fuel gauge reads empty only when its cold outside but when its warm in the air it works fine. tryna unfskcerate it. also my pathfinder spins the front driveshaft, but my cv's dont spin. is that still a issue with my hubs you think?

once the truck warms up, i have 1st and 2nd gear...i went to the junk yard and saw that the xterras all had tcm's, under the dash, near the brake pedal...i also had to switch out the original stock shifter, since the cable, was too short...i used once from an xterra...but i didn't reconnect, all of those wires either...so maybe that has something to do with this issue, of it going into limp mode...On another note, it runs GREAT!!! until it warms up...Shifts really smooth

Pretty much just R&R. The Allen bolts may fight you, mine were stuck pretty good. The service manual wants you to select new snap rings of the correct thickness to set the end-float on the CV axles (and the tension on the seals at the back of the hub), but I don't think anyone actually does that. Hawairish started a thread comparing different brands of hubs. Even the cheap-looking ones he looked at seemed pretty decent inside. The OE manual hubs are supposed to be the strongest, but good luck finding a set of those. Warns are popular. I'm running Mile Markers on mine, and apart from the chrome plating being crap, they've been great. I also posted a video in that thread (second page) from when I replaced mine, showing what's involved.

Ditto on that. "Easy button" is disconnect the fuel supply hose from the rail and place the end in a fuel container, pull the fuel pump relay, and run 12V straight to terminal 5 to let the fuel pump do the work for you. Be sure to go back with a new fuel filter, too.

thanks for the quick reply, thats what I was lead too from what research ive done. Is it just a remove and replace or is there more that goes into it? im looking to buy manual hubs but im not trying to spend very much. all im finding i some cheap ebay junk and super expensive oreilly junk