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The Terrano is just what they called the Pathfinder in some other markets. I may have one off my parts car. I'll dig around later and see if it's got a part number on it.

I'll leave this visible for, just a little while...

# 6 Good Bye! REAL NPORA Members, if I missed something in the above post, please let me know ASAP!

Excellent! (The FSM says to "replace the entire distributor assembly with camshaft position sensor if faulty", so you're on the right track!) Good luck, and keep us posted!

My husband reminded me that the guy left the old distributor in the truck when we bought it, so I took it apart to find the sensor and it was there, under the plate below the rotor. I've ordered a new distributor so I don't risk damaged any parts to replace the sensor. I'm downloading the FSM now to have it handy as well.

Now, don't "quote" me on this, but I thought the crank angle/position sensor didn't appear on the Pathfinder until the VG33 engine ('96 and later) as part of OBD-II emissions? Have you downloaded the FSM? The Haynes is good for better explanations of things once you know the problem, but the FSM is more detailed at helping track down the problem first.

I finished the tailgate switch- it was not effectively shorting when the door was open due to corrosion and bad contact. I cleaned it up real good, and bent the contact down a little until I got a good, consistent short, but still got an open when depressed. The mechanism itself seemed to be fine, and I could see it open the contact gap when pushed in, giving an open. It just wasn't getting a good short when in the released position. While I had it unplugged, I went ahead and tested the cargo lamp by jumpering the connector. Even with that, the only way I could get the cargo light to come on was by turning it to the "ON" position. I thought maybe it was the cargo lamp switch itself, but when i checked at the connector, I had 12v across Red/Grn and black, but 0v across red/grn and red/wht. So something else is off there.

According to the FSM (EF & EC), if the crank angle sensor is bad, the engine will still start and run in fail-safe mode. It will also trip the 'Check Engine' light (if you have one). I would try pulling codes from the ECU but honestly if the car requires a jump to start, you aren't getting charged by the alt. And if it's acting like the battery is dead... you have an electrical issue...

After finally getting the Haynes manual yesterday, I think what the guy I was talking to was referring to on this vehicle is the crank angle sensor. What I can find on parts websites, it looks like a disc with a box on one side. One or more of the fuel injectors being bad is another fear I have that may be the issue.

Hello @TowndawgR50 @hawairish Greetings from Canada. I am looking to get a 4" kit for my 1999 nissan pathfinder. Please reply with availability. Thanks

Hello @TowndawgR50 @hawairish Greetings from Canada. I am looking to get a 4" kit for my 1999 nissan pathfinder. Please reply with availability. Thanks

I at least got the rear hatch switch working consistently now, so that's ready whenever I can get the rear wiper amplifier replaced. I started to do the rear tailgate switch as well, but i only got halfway through before it got dark. It seems a little more complicated, as it really won't come out from the outside the way the rear hatch switch does (the bolts will, but the latch assembly won't). And it seems in order to access it, you've got to remove the actuator panel as well in order to have any maneuvering room. It's only another 5 screws and another link or 2, so no biggie. I'll try to finish it tomorrow. I could definitely see some corrosion around the leads, but without being able to take it out yet, it was hard for me to see how the switch actually worked.

The part # on my unit says 28510-42G00, which looks like it's been superseded by B8510-42G85. However, I'm not showing that as available either. Anyone know a good source for really old Pathfinders? Just from Googling, it looks like this was also used on some later Terrano models as well, but I really don't even recall that model.

Hi again, thanks a lot for the info. I had some time today to take a further look. WRT to the cargo light, yes, there is a 3-position switch. My light stays off when in the middle position, but it turns on when I move it to the ON position. Off position also seems to work. I looked at the voltages coming in from the plug, and I believe the far left (Red/Grn) on the plug is +12V, while the middle pin is ground, and the far right pin (looking into the connector) is coming from the latch switch (red/white). When the switch is closed (rear door open), the red/white should be shorted to ground and allows the light to come on, if the switch at the lamp is in the right position. I guess my switch is stuck in the open position as I read +12v even with the rear door open , but I haven't had a chance to look at that yet. I did pull the rear wiper amplifier, and I tested it according to the diagram on EL-72. I'm pretty sure I connected everything properly, but I was reading a negative ~3 volts between pins 2 and 7 (with 7 being the ground). If I did everything correctly, then I guess my amp is bad? Now the question, where to find one?

Hey fellow R50 owners. I don't know if this topic is still active or not but I have a little delema that I need help with. I have a, 2" spacer suspension lifted, 03 R50 SE with stock 16" 6 spoke wheels and stock axles. The front struts and rear shocks are original from when I picked up the vehicle. I just found out that both of my front inner cv boots are busted so now I plan on fixing the whole suspension and drivetrain to how it should be for a 4 wheeler. My plans are new extended travel cv axles for the front with manual locking hubs. OME or Rancho shocks and struts if I can still find them. Can I get some input on this and any help will be very appreciated. Thanks

I've been ignoring the same problem for years. Busted stud, same as yours (same one too, I think). It's dead common on these. The studs were too small or the wrong steel or something. The next version of the engine (the VG33) uses larger studs, not that this helps you any. My dad had the same problem on one probably twenty years ago, and had a shop cut an access hole in the inner fender to make it easier. I bought a 90* drill adapter to try and do mine without cutting sheet metal, got some 300ZX exhaust studs (IIRC they're supposed to be stronger?) and new manifold gaskets, and then never got around to it because it looked like a PITA and it wasn't obviously hurting anything. I don't think I've ever heard of one of these burning an exhaust valve. There's also a common exhaust leak at the Y-pipe, under the driver's floor. Tends to rot out the floor under the driver's right heel. That one will set your carpet on fire if it gets bad enough.

It sounds like strange electrical issues -> check all of your grounds. Given the age of the car, I would pull off all of the grounds and sand off the oxidation while checking that the ground is even still there. Do the same to the battery connecting terminals. You can find the locations in the FSM. Also check that the fusible link at the positive battery post is still intact (no signs of burning) and just generally look around for any frayed wires / short-to-ground situations.

I drove like this for some years (as well as the PO for some years) and never had an issue. I eventually got tired of the noise and had someone fix it out in the country (cheaper than the city and they're used to patching things back together). My guess as to what could possibly happen if it's not fixed is more studs could break, possibly fail an inspection (if you have them) and the O2 sensor readings not being 100% correct so the car does not run optimally. Also, depending on where the escaping heat is directed, could ignite the jute padding on the other side of the firewall but that probably would have already happened at this point.

Hello NPORA! I recently picked up a 1994 Pathfinder v6 with an awful exhaust leak at the manifold on the passenger side. I pulled off the heat shield to find the stud closest to the firewall missing. After trying to thread in a new bolt it is also obvious that the threads have been pulled out of the head too. Running the Pathfinder is quite loud, and I have confirmed from feeling around with the engine running that the leak is where this stud is missing. So onto my question: Is it ok to continue to drive like this? I understand it is not ideal, and the noise bothers me, but I just bought the Pathfinder and was hoping to be able to enjoy it a little. Also not really looking forward to retapping threads in a tight clearance area, as well as probably breaking more studs trying to remove the manifold. But will driving it end up burning an exhaust valve, or causing any other damage? The previous owner drove it around like this for many years it sounds like, and the truck doesn't have any running symptoms that would indicate a burnt valve at this point.

Well to be fair I haven’t actually inspected the sensor I need to do that tomorrow. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah it looks fine. Its very new, I got it last fall. Just wondering if it got fouled up because of the stupid intake modifications the previous owner did. Part I’m confused about is why it gave out so much faster than the previous sensor that lasted 7-8k vs 1k miles. The thing that is the same is the overall time it was in use for (~6/7 months) but I feel like the actual driving hours is what matters. Something else I found, is that the car does have a rev limiter/limp mode for when the MAF is disconnected. Maxes out at like 2.5k rpms. And i could literally see carbon blowing out of the exhaust coating the asphalt beneath it, from what I’m guessing is the fuel running so rich it doesn’t burn all the way. I was reading up and the ECM will revert to running rich to protect the engine when the MAF is disconnected. I wish my parts would get here sooner so I can try to fix it!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah, that sounds like the MAF rather than the connector. Does the MAF look okay? Any fouling on the elements? I don't know what would've killed it (or dirtied it) that fast, though I remember seeing a picture where someone got a fly stuck in one (don't think it was an R50) due to an air filter box not sealing properly. Hopefully the new one holds up better.

Here’s an update. I ordered the connector and MAF so they should be getting here soon. However I just went to check on the car and here’s what I found. I took out the connector, wiggled around the wires blew into it like a Nintendo cartridge, tapped on it (everything but actually clean it) plugged it back in and fired up the the rig. It turns on but runs like crap: sputtering, smelling strong unburned fuel, making like a womp-womp-womp-womp-womp noise, then after like 30 seconds the noise stops it revs up a little bit and dies. So I unplugged the MAF turned it on and it sounded decent like how it usually does. When I reved it it backfired a little bit but I’m pretty sure that is just because it wasn’t warm yet. Then I plugged the MAF back in and it immediately died… So yeah, going to try to first replace the connector but I think the MAF has to get done too. I wiggled it around a ton while it was plugged in and it didn’t change even a little bit. Thanks again for the advice. I recorded videos too, if anyone is curious about the noise of the engine, hit me up. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sounds like you got lucky, I tried getting a replacement from eBay a few times in the past and no dice. I even got a known working one from @Dbot and it too did not jive with my R50. That's why I mentioned matching up the Part numbers on the back-side of the fob, but strangely that's what I did the first few time I got one. I eventually found two fobs that worked with my R50 from the junkyard, I then took that part number and ordered two of them from Amazon for $11.25 although on Amazon it said that it did not fit my R50 even though the part numbers were the same, however they did indeed work with my R50 lol! Chris.

I wish the service manual gave part numbers! Or at least a spotting guide for when they list different models of the same part with different torque specs. I had a look at the hatch glass latch from my partsfinder ('95, same as my '93, hopefully the same as what you're working with). The bad news is that the switch is built into the plate under the latch, and the plate appears to come with the latch assembly (either 90330-41G00 or 90330-41G01 for an '87)... or would, if they weren't discontinued. The good news is that it's a very simple switch. Unless the contact fell off the plunger, or the plastic broke, I imagine it's just got some corrosion where the contact hits the body of the switch. Should be easy to inspect and clean once it's off. (After looking at it again, I would leave the adjustment bolts alone, and pull the latch and plate as a unit. Four bolts, one plug, and of course the linkage.) Clean up the contact points and the slots they go into with a small file, steel wool, a strip of sandpaper, a fiberglass pencil, something along those lines. That should bring it around. I would also check that the linkage from the latch isn't pressing on the plunger when the latch is closed, though I'd be surprised if that had somehow gone wrong. The cargo light switch is built into the main hatch latch. Again, it's not replaceable on its own, though it looks like that assembly is still available (in three different variations, for some reason). If you look into the latch from the outside, where the striker goes, you'll see a big rubber chunk in there on one side. The striker is supposed to push that chunk inwards when the hatch closes, which opens the switch contacts. But it's a stupid design, and the rubber wears, and eventually it doesn't open the contacts like it's supposed to, and the cargo light starts flashing when you go over bumps. I imagine the previous owner got tired of the light show and unplugged the bastard. You may be able to clear this up by adjusting the striker. Mine has tape wrapped around the striker, which also works. Again, I am assuming that your '87 is built the same as the four-doors I'm used to. Your cargo light has a three-position switch on it, right? Looks like the instructions for testing the amp didn't translate well. I think they meant that grounding pin 6 (with the rest wired as shown) should make the lamp come on.