Jump to content

R50JR’s build thread


R50JR
 Share

Recommended Posts

You've never had a problem with KYB until now... lol.

 

They're struts are fantastic but if I were you I would return those mounts and buy a genuine part before you put those on, or you are going to have problems.

I promise you that you'll be glad you did in the future when you don't have to pull apart your strut assembly again to replace them.

 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I did a little work on the suspension today. Swapped out the rear shocks as those were easiest. I will get to the struts hopefully by the end of the week.

New and old

63ab87a6dd6ac48568ae13846a8b371a.jpg

 

Still the original shocks for both rear!

03fa09a12b3504c97cd54efef2846b72.jpg

 

I noticed the rear driver side sags a bit more than the passenger on level ground.

 

Driver rear

14294cc91d87c12bcfa876bfe8dfdd38.jpg

 

Passenger rear

810eedb66037444f81c54a7dc497ace5.jpg

 

Could it be time for new springs?

 

While i was working on the shocks the mailman came and left these. Shout out to Fleurys for fast shipping!

af2bddc00b1606278c04071c567c1495.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Edited by Astrorami
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Fleurys ships really fast, I was happy with that when I ordered mine. Those height measurements seem a little low, but I can't remember; it's been a long time since mine was stock. It may be worth doing them as long as it's all taken apart.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well I got the springs today. All 4 moog for about $93. For some weird reason working with springs always scares me so I’m probably going to procrastinate. 31250f0e6518d34338b7465274d96fc6.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The only time I mind working with springs is when they need to be compressed. Haven't had any close calls yet, and I don't intend to have any! I usually take my struts to a shop and have them switch coils around or whatever I need to have done. As far as the rear axle the springs don't usually need much if any compression so I'm comfortable doing that. Good luck on the install, stay safe and have fun!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It's not terribly hard or scary as long as you use quality tools, take your time, be smart and safe. Most auto parts stores now do free tool rental, so no real loss if you get into it and decide you're still uncomfortable with it, just a bit of time. If that's the case, yank the other strut assembly out, load em up and bring them and all your new parts to a shop. No harm done.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

When I swapped mine I was a little leary, but I got the rear done with no issue. I was also installing 2" lift springs so they were a little stiffer and slightly taller. I was unable to do the struts just because I couldn't get the springs compressed enough to fit on the struts, so I just have spacers on the front for now. Here in the next couple weeks ill just take my struts off and take them to a shop to put the new springs on. Mine has quite a drop in the front, but the new stiffer springs should fix it. Also, since the topics fresh, has anyone had any issues warn hubs?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just finished putting everything back together. I attempted to swap the rear coils and add 2” spacers and failed horribly. I couldn’t get the axle to drop low enough. I’ll try again tomorrow.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Did you have both the sway bar and panhard bar disconnected?

I did not. I was able to take the nut off the panhard at the axle but did not remove rod and I only removed the sway link on the side I was working on (pass side)

 

How does the panhard come off? Does it just slide off like the shock does from the bottom mount? Also I noticed I don’t have a hose coming off the top the pumpkin. Its more of a small relief vent. Is that common?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The panhard doesnt have to come off all the way, just disconnecting one end is fine. Having both sides of the sway bar disconnected does make a difference though. I had trouble getting enough droop on mine until the sway bar was fully disconnected.

 

The vent on the rear diff seems to vary by model year. Mine is an 03 and just had the little vent cap as well. I think the older ones have the hose style?

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Went to the JY today and grabbed a few goodies. Purely cosmetic items..

 

c1792cab562ead6691dc40fb5e5f2f66.jpg

 

I was planning on doing the rear springs today but I got a little lazy. Actually I am not very confident on doing the job. Is anyone here in socal or west phoenix willing to help me out? Burritos and beer on me!

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Went to the JY today and grabbed a few goodies. Purely cosmetic items..

 

c1792cab562ead6691dc40fb5e5f2f66.jpg

 

I was planning on doing the rear springs today but I got a little lazy. Actually I am not very confident on doing the job. Is anyone here in socal or west phoenix willing to help me out? Burritos and beer on me!

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

I'm in west Phx, swing on by! I'm just up the 303 a few miles.

 

Disconnecting the upper panhard mount is easier than the bottom, btw. Also, trick is to support the chassis as high as you can safely go...I used to get by with just my jackstands, but with the amount of lift now, it's gotta be jackstands plus some base. It's gonna be interesting when I swap in LR springs and redo the trailing arms...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

I haven’t posted anything in a bit so if anyone is interested.. it’s been just over a week I made my way over to AZ to register my pathfinder. While I was there I stopped by hawairish’s house for help with the spring and lift install. All I can say is hawairish is a real cool guy. He’s extremely helpful and up for anything related to pathfinders. I am glad he offered to give me a hand because I certainly would not have been able to do this on my own. Thanks, man!

 

Here’s how it sat before the lift.

ef52f1db34610f106e5cf4eda2b631b3.jpg

 

This is after.

2c58532d7c0717195da001943767dccc.jpg

 

During the week I headed over to the JY and pulled the front lift motor for the driver seat. Mine came with a bent screw so I would not turn.

ebc6c344077f8e4a9b3110072038e97e.jpg

400a336adf23d6a05c5b0e58ef41a935.jpg

74dd1dbab3e6dbe62fc457e94ff54ab8.jpg

 

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 7
Link to comment
Share on other sites

What lift did you go with? It looks good!

Moog springs all around with fleurys spacers (2"). I am currently on ebay shopping for AT tires to add an additional small amount of lift.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Although they aren't technically AT, I would strongly recommend Duratracs. They're best tire in existence if you ask me.

 

The ride height of that second pic (with the 2" spacers) is how it should have come from the factory. Silly Nissan leaving no wheel gap! :nono:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've recently found my new source for tires, www.tirebuyer.com great prices, on many great tires, ships to a local installer for free, guaranteed installer pricing and great reviews. Looking great, btw

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the recommendations guys, I am buying them from discount direct as they have the $100 off $400 on ebay right now.

I have two questions, yes or no for LT tires? 245/70-17 or 255/70-17?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Lt (light truck) usually has a little stiffer sidewalls and higher load rating then comparable P (passenger) tires.

 

P tires might give a slightly better ride.

 

It is really up to you and how you use it. I put P tires on my truck because I don't haul heavy weight and I was more concerned with road noise. If going in the woods I would get LT because of the extra puncture resistance with the tougher sidewalls. That's what I did with the pathy.

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

I decided and got a set falken wildpeak a/t3w size P245/70-17 XL from DTD. I didn't want the Load E as they are nearly 50 lb per tire and they also were $130 more for the set and I can't justify spending that when I know I'll never get full used out of them. I am hoping the XL rating helps with the thickness of the carcass and is more resistant than a standard load tire, not to mention the tire is fairly robust as is. I am hoping to have them mounted by the end of the week when they arrive and will post pics. My next mod will be DIY skid plates.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have the falken wildpeak m/t and really like them. They have held up well to sharp scree rock and driving over downed trees.

Edited by Citron
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Its been a couple of weeks since I updated this... it has been a bit of a headache just to get tires! Here’s what happened: I ordered them from DTD on a Monday and they were all supposed to arrive by Friday of the same week but 2/4 tires were held up at a ups facility in LA while the other 2 were supposedly delivered. I guess they were delivered, but the ups driver thought it was okay to leave them at my garage door that borders a public alleyway. I got an email for the delivery about 20 minutes later and I ran to the garage and....they were gone. So after numerous phone calls to ups and discount tire direct I finally had 2 replacement tires coming my way. The other tires that were held up I physically received the following day, so no issues with those. I got the replacements late last week and had them all mounted. They look much better than the destination le2 tires the car came with. One thing that doesn’t seem right to me is the front driver wheel has about seventeen 1/4oz weights. It seems a bit excessive. Doe anyone have input on this?

96c047d2dbb637266544ae355041ca62.jpg

27c3094ec65f38ce9233ce8ed786a025.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Edited by Astrorami
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Either a bent rim or bad tire. Sometimes tires aren't manufactured perfectly and they will have more rubber in certain areas. Combine that with a defect in the rim and this is what happens. A good tire shop won't put that much on. Sometimes if you dismount the tire and try it at 180 and 90 degrees one of those will take less weight. If that doesn't work, then try it on a different rim and if still no go, then you have a defective tire. Warranty should cover it, they usually have a spec for how out of balance the tire can be and be considered good. The tire shop should have never let it leave like that without getting your approval.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Tire should be turned until the yellow dot is at the valve stem or in your case tams unit. its the low side on the tire the valve will compensate for a little of the weight removal. 17oz I would have 180'd the tire or sent it back, I used to work for americas/discount tire for 14 years. I got a little knowledge on the rubber side haha.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...