Jump to content


Photo

SAS with hpd44


  • Please log in to reply
6 replies to this topic

#1 OFFLINE   Citron

Citron

    NPORA Old-Timer

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 428 posts
  • Local time: 08:18 PM
  • Location:Grays Harbor, Washington [WA]
  • Country:
  • Model:SE
  • Year:1992

Posted 30 March 2017 - 12:33 PM

Okay, after posting on here a while back about doing a lift and steering upgrade, I decided to go the SAS route. Since I wanted to do a SAS eventually anyway, it didn't make sense to spend the money on lifting the ifs.

I picked up a high pinion Dana 44 housing, kind of an impulse buy. I am leaning towards a SUA setup for simplicity sake, but keep going back to 3 link and coils. How hard is it to get the links setup? I have downloaded a link calculator but it wants info that I have no way of getting, like weight per corner. I don't have a way to measure that. Enough people have done this that I was hoping to find solid measurements, like run top link from point x to point y, but can't find anything with details.

I see the advantages to both suspension setups, but would want to make all four corners the same. So the extra cost of going link up front would be offset by the added cost of doing leafs in the back, if I chose leaf setup. Sorry if this is rambling, I am sick and having a hard time focusing my thoughts.

I guess my question is a 3 link setup that complicated to get right? All work will need to be done in my driveway, as I only have a one car garage that is stuffed with tools and materials.

#2 OFFLINE   Cuong Nguyen

Cuong Nguyen

    Mr. RTI

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,220 posts
  • Local time: 11:18 PM
  • Location:Houston, TX
  • Model:XE
  • Year:1993

Posted 30 March 2017 - 08:50 PM

Just be aware you are going to be nickled and dimed to death doing a budget SAS build. Cost effective way is to know how to weld and make sure you have everything ready to go in one shot.

It would be a waste of a high pinion to go spring under.

Leaf springs are always the cheapest route of course and quickest to do. I know of a guy who can set you up quick and fast if you want to go spring over front and rear.

One day I'll go coils but until then my fine with what I have as I don't wheel much anymore.

#3 OFFLINE   Citron

Citron

    NPORA Old-Timer

  • Topic Starter
  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 428 posts
  • Local time: 08:18 PM
  • Location:Grays Harbor, Washington [WA]
  • Country:
  • Model:SE
  • Year:1992

Posted 30 March 2017 - 09:20 PM

Thanks for the reply. It seems like most everybody that runs leafs is happy with them, but they all plan on going coils eventually. Maybe I will go coils to begin with, in the long run it would be cheaper then going leafs, then coils.

Am I over thinking the coil links? Is it easier to set up then I am making it out to be?

#4 OFFLINE   KovemaN

KovemaN

    NPORA Old-Timer

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 839 posts
  • Local time: 09:18 PM
  • Location:Phoenix - AZ
  • Model:SE
  • Year:1995

Posted 31 March 2017 - 08:27 AM

I know you've already asked over at N4W, but I think looking up some RuggedRocks/TheKing (Kenny)  builds would be beneficial.  He never goes the cheap way, but I know he's 3-linked his fair share of Nissans using the HP Ford axles.  You've already got the best JY axle available so you might as well build it right.  As for the rear, It seems like a step back to switch to leaf sprung.  Ryan Gee (GrandpaX) has done a low/no budget rear long travel setup.  It was mostly just a matter of extending the rear upper arms.  I'd search all of this out for you, but no time.



#5 OFFLINE   Citron

Citron

    NPORA Old-Timer

  • Topic Starter
  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 428 posts
  • Local time: 08:18 PM
  • Location:Grays Harbor, Washington [WA]
  • Country:
  • Model:SE
  • Year:1992

Posted 31 March 2017 - 09:54 AM

I will look into this. Never thought to look at rugged rocks for build info. Thanks!

#6 OFFLINE   hawairish

hawairish

    NPORA Old-Timer

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,542 posts
  • Local time: 09:18 PM
  • Location:Surprise, AZ
  • Country:
  • Model:SE
  • Year:2004

Posted 03 April 2017 - 11:10 AM

I can't really contribute anything here, except maybe for this...

 

info that I have no way of getting, like weight per corner. I don't have a way to measure that.

 

I had to do a physics lab for this back in college.  You can approximate weight without scales like so:

https://www.explorat...ks/tired-weight



#7 OFFLINE   ABCAB

ABCAB

    NPORA Regular

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 60 posts
  • Local time: 06:18 AM
  • Location:South Africa
  • Country:
  • Model:I Wish I had a Pathy!
  • Year:1997

Posted 03 April 2017 - 11:53 AM

When I did my D21 SAS, I pulled in at a scrap metal merchant and asked him to weigh the front and rear independently. Came to 1200kg up front and 900kg on the rear. You should be half that on each wheel.

Had leaf packs built to carry appropriate weight on the front end with the one tonner leaf pack as a base to work from. They added one military wrap blade to the pack.

I could possibly have gone a bit heavier as the pack carries the weight with an exactly straight blade.

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk




0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users

Welcome to NPORA Forums

 

Please REGISTER to gain full access to the forum.

 

Make sure you read the Forum Guidelines and don't forget to post a new intro in the New People Start Here! section, to say hi too everyone.

 

-NPORA