txpath4x4 Posted December 20, 2015 Share Posted December 20, 2015 hey guys, changed injectors and FPR. plugs, cap, rotor. checked for vac leaks with starting fluid. when you give it full throttle it runs great, but at idle it barely wants to run.what am i missing? is it possible that the new FPR is bad? also i found a bad wire on the common for my injectors 2,4,6. repaired that.please any help before i get the can of gasoline and a lighter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted December 20, 2015 Share Posted December 20, 2015 MAF sensor wires. Wiggle them at the connector.Very common. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5523Pathfinder Posted December 20, 2015 Share Posted December 20, 2015 Or the MAF itself. You may want to try and clean it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nefarious Posted December 20, 2015 Share Posted December 20, 2015 (edited) Check all the wiring connectors for loose pins. Check all grounds. Make sure your battery connections aren't corroded. You may want to clean the maf sensor element (use only maf sensor cleaner and do not never touch the maf element with anything, just spray quickly and repeatedly until it is all clean, other chemicals like brake clean can damage it) Always good to have a vacuum gauge and fuel pressure gauge with some brass fittings and a tee. Assure vacuum is strong (around 20-24 inches of mercury at idle) and fuel pressure is in spec (38 psi at idle and 45 psi at 3500 rpm). You can check impedance of the injectors to rule out weak injectors at the front injector harness connection where it joins the main harness on the front of the passenger (right side) side valve cover. Also of course before all of this run the ecu for codes in the diagnostic mode and test your o2 sensor function in the o2 diagnostic section. Report back, good luck Edited December 20, 2015 by Nefarious Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
txpath4x4 Posted December 20, 2015 Author Share Posted December 20, 2015 Thanks guys I'll report when I find it. I have a fuel gauge and vacuum gauge in my shop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RF600 Posted December 22, 2015 Share Posted December 22, 2015 Check the idle air control valve 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
txpath4x4 Posted January 5, 2016 Author Share Posted January 5, 2016 Hey guys, have been working non stop, now I am on nights. Gonna try and look at it one morning when I get off work Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
txpath4x4 Posted January 5, 2016 Author Share Posted January 5, 2016 Also, I know it seems like a weird request but could somebody send me a picture of their distributor cap so I can see where their number one spark plug wire is positioned? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RF600 Posted January 6, 2016 Share Posted January 6, 2016 If I remember correctly, number one is about the 10 o'clock position. That is when you are facing the distributor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
txpath4x4 Posted January 6, 2016 Author Share Posted January 6, 2016 And the firing order is counterclockwise and is 1,2,3,4,5,6... Correct? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cuong Nguyen Posted January 6, 2016 Share Posted January 6, 2016 Yep Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpecialWarr Posted January 8, 2016 Share Posted January 8, 2016 (edited) This is what it should look like from the front of the truck: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CswWM8F85nM And I just realized that this post does not address the question.... but it does show the position of the rotor! Sorry about that! Edited January 8, 2016 by SpecialWarr Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
txpath4x4 Posted January 8, 2016 Author Share Posted January 8, 2016 Hey the position of the rotor works for me. Thanks guys Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
txpath4x4 Posted January 11, 2016 Author Share Posted January 11, 2016 I fixed it. Hallelujah!!! So the official report is: after replacing all the fuel injectors and the fuel pressure regulator, it started running rough, after doing several diagnostics I found the common wire between the three inside injectors was open. The connection point with the factory crimp was bad. I replaced that but still had a miss or two. found a bad PCV hose on my bypass, fixed that still had number five cylinder miss no matter what I did it did not go away. Before grabbing the can of gasoline and the book of matches, for one last time I wiggled the injector. when the injector it's self rotated, the miss went completely away. Official diagnosis misaligned injection port in the fuel rail? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cuong Nguyen Posted January 11, 2016 Share Posted January 11, 2016 Could be bad contacts on plug/injector or a bad injector. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpecialWarr Posted January 18, 2016 Share Posted January 18, 2016 I'm with Cuong Nguyen on that one.... and in case you were wondering: an engine harness for $250 CAD is a great deal of peace of mind / dollar. But you need a warm weekend to get it done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverton Posted January 18, 2016 Share Posted January 18, 2016 Just my two cents... From the sounds of it, if you had spent a dollar or three more on a distributor cap, it would have been imprinted with the cylinder numbers. All mine have anyway! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
txpath4x4 Posted January 26, 2016 Author Share Posted January 26, 2016 It had the numbers on there, but I wanted to make sure I put it on the correct way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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