Jmoor85 Posted October 26, 2015 Author Share Posted October 26, 2015 (edited) Yes sir. That's right. I don't mind weekend warrior projects but this is hopefully the last major job for a while. Knock on wood. Btw I'll pick up the stabilizer and oil today after work. Looks like I'll be off in a couple hrs. T Edited October 26, 2015 by Jmoor85 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jmoor85 Posted October 27, 2015 Author Share Posted October 27, 2015 Well. No one in town has gl-4 gear oil. I think I'll have drive to the next little town over. They have a machine shop and a little store with super high priced stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted October 27, 2015 Share Posted October 27, 2015 Consider on line options... It isn't too late to have it shipped to you; the last thing that goes back on is the shifter, so it shouldn't hold you back... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jmoor85 Posted October 27, 2015 Author Share Posted October 27, 2015 Yeah. I'm looking at ordering it online. Probably today. If it is not one thing keeping me from getting this clutch done it's another. We adopted a boxer from a very poor living condition. He is a rescue and while only have him for a couple days now he has made me practice my patients. He has been caged his whole like(3years), doesn't have a name, never been on a walk of felt grass and have never run. He has gone days without eating so he is very food motivated. Yesterday on my lunch break I come home to this. Here he is the day we got him. Much happier boy. Compared to Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jmoor85 Posted October 27, 2015 Author Share Posted October 27, 2015 I was up until late last night cleaning carpets instead of working on pathfinder. Life calls. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01Pathmaker Posted October 28, 2015 Share Posted October 28, 2015 Kudos on the rescue! Keep a cool head and it'll pay off. Had a very rough first few months with my dog, also a rescue, but after time and love she became the best dog I've ever had, she's 14 now (was about 1.5yrs when we got her) still perfect. Enjoy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jmoor85 Posted October 28, 2015 Author Share Posted October 28, 2015 He will be a good dog. His heart is there. Our other boxer already likes him. She lost her buddy in February. His name was Ceasar and he was a huge 92lb English bulldog we had for 8 years. Best dog I have ever had. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jmoor85 Posted October 28, 2015 Author Share Posted October 28, 2015 So do you guys suggest putting a small tacky layer of RTV down behind gasket of RMS housing and also on the housing itself? What about for the oil pan seal? I have the regular black RTV gasket maker and the high heat stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted October 28, 2015 Share Posted October 28, 2015 (edited) So do you guys suggest putting a small tacky layer of RTV down behind gasket of RMS housing and also on the housing itself? What about for the oil pan seal? I have the regular black RTV gasket maker and the high heat stuff. For an area that you don't want to revisit for 100K miles I would go with Toyota FIPG, order online or Permatex Ultra Copper, buy local (both are High quality RTV choices) I know I said this, but make sure its clean and oil free when you apply it. This includes fingerprint oils. both sides of the gasket and on the housing face and on the bolt threads. Edited October 28, 2015 by MY1PATH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted October 28, 2015 Share Posted October 28, 2015 There is supposed to be a gasket that comes with the RMS, for the housing. At least mine did. I just used some of that spray adhesive to hold it in place and it's been fine. Although I was stupid and didn't replace the oil pan one the first time around. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jmoor85 Posted October 28, 2015 Author Share Posted October 28, 2015 I ordered the gear oil from Napa online. So I figured I'd call them and see if they have the permatex ultra copper in store. They said they do. So now my next question. I have the paper fel-pro gasket. Is there an even better one than that? The oil pan seal seams to be the same as the one I took out so it should be fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jmoor85 Posted October 28, 2015 Author Share Posted October 28, 2015 There is supposed to be a gasket that comes with the RMS, for the housing. At least mine did. I just used some of that spray adhesive to hold it in place and it's been fine. Although I was stupid and didn't replace the oil pan one the first time around. Hey if I can learn from someone else' mistake then I will. Lmao. I really do not want to be doing this job again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted October 28, 2015 Share Posted October 28, 2015 You are asking all the right questions... I was up until late last night cleaning carpets instead of working on pathfinder. Life calls. Ouch, that was a mess! Someone needs a little behavior modification... Sounds like you know dogs, so patience and good luck. Good job taking him in, I hate people who mistreat others (animals included) So do you guys suggest putting a small tacky layer of RTV down behind gasket of RMS housing and also on the housing itself? What about for the oil pan seal?I have the regular black RTV gasket maker and the high heat stuff. OK, what you really want here is the most oil resistant, with some heat resistance as well. IIRC, the black is the most oil resistant, but read the application chart on the back, it will tell you. The Ultra Copper is for high heat; I used it on my headers/Y pipe with great success, but it might not be the best for the RMS. Do go with Permatex brand though, I've used their products for decades and have never been let down as long as I used it properly... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jmoor85 Posted October 29, 2015 Author Share Posted October 29, 2015 Damn. Wish I read this sooner. I installed using the ultra copper. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted October 29, 2015 Share Posted October 29, 2015 Damn. Wish I read this sooner. I installed using the ultra copper. You'll be alright, Mr 510 used to build L motors with Ultra Copper. (510 engines and how he got his name) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted October 29, 2015 Share Posted October 29, 2015 Probably not an issue so don't worry about it. Just pointing out that there isn't a 1 type fits all, hence why multiple types are made. Ultra Copper is better for exhaust, Ultra Black is better for oil, Blue is better for coolant type applications IIRC, etc. It comes down to application; beware of catchalls... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jmoor85 Posted October 29, 2015 Author Share Posted October 29, 2015 Well I totally F'd up. After installing the RMS I figured I'd tend to the driver side exhaust leak while the seal dried. In taking the manifold off I had two broken studs. Already rusty on the break. So like the passenger side they were old. Both studs are broken underneath the surface and are domed. I went in through the inner fender and tapped a mark on the stud to drill out the center. Unfortunately the drill bit walked on me and I didn't catch it soon enough. It went at a more straight angle than the angle of the stud. I was able to get a 1/16 bit in there to try and straighten out the hole. In doing this the broken stud did turn (right). So I know the stud can be backed out IF I can get something in there to bite on it. I'll try and take a pic for you. But I need ideas. I was thinking of getting some amazing glue to glue a small bolt in there or something. I couldn't sleep last night. I tried a small EZ Out but it wants to grab onto the side of the bolt hole. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted October 29, 2015 Share Posted October 29, 2015 Superglueing a small bolt to it might work since it doesn't seem to be seized, and would be easy to remove/clean up if it didn't work. I know some people have tack welded a bolt much like you describe also. Perhaps try a left handed drill bit as well to see if it will walk it out; I've made my own spade drills and used this trick in machine shops often. Just be patient though... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jmoor85 Posted October 29, 2015 Author Share Posted October 29, 2015 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jmoor85 Posted October 29, 2015 Author Share Posted October 29, 2015 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted October 29, 2015 Share Posted October 29, 2015 Can you get a small pick or screw driver in there and see if you can tap the broken stud counterclockwise? B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jmoor85 Posted October 29, 2015 Author Share Posted October 29, 2015 The only pick I have broke. I tried tapping around it with a small chisel. Tried a flat head. Smallest EZ Outs I have. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harbinger Posted October 30, 2015 Share Posted October 30, 2015 The pan has to come off to get sealed. The book may referee removing the RMS housing to remove the RMS SEAL... THIS IS WRONG, removing and re-installing the housing almost always leads to a future pan leak. Leave the housing in place and use a seal puller. I did not learn this one from personal experience but rather from a friend who has built hundreds of Nissan engines. I took his advice rather than learning the hard way because oil pans are PITA on a 4x4... Man, where was this tidbit last year, around this time? I pulled the housing to replace my RMS during my transmission swap. I've had an oil leak ever since. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jmoor85 Posted October 30, 2015 Author Share Posted October 30, 2015 Got that dang broken stud out. Found a squared extractor. I drilled the hole a little deeper and tapped that square extractor in there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jmoor85 Posted October 30, 2015 Author Share Posted October 30, 2015 Man, where was this tidbit last year, around this time? I pulled the housing to replace my RMS during my transmission swap. I've had an oil leak ever since. Well I as an oil leak there already at the oil pan so I didn't have much choice. But hopefully someone who just needs a RMS replacement will be helped by this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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