BikerJared Posted May 2, 2012 Share Posted May 2, 2012 My exhaust manifold is cracked and wont pass emmissions. I'm looking at headers to replace it. I can find Pacesetter headers in stock at Jegs and other places. I've got a Pacesetter header on my Sentra but it didn't fit right and was a pain to install. Does anybody have experience with these? Does Doug Thorley still make headers for this car and are they worth the extra $300? Other header recommendations? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted May 2, 2012 Share Posted May 2, 2012 Some people have had no problems with their pase setters for the W21 and others have had to rework and massage them. To me their biggest short coming is that they aren't coated, the paint burns off the first day and then the rust begins... Thorley does still make the headers but usually in batches or group buys. Call Steven at Rugged Rocks (look at the vendors section here), I'm pretty sure he'll know that latest status. Thorleys are more expensive, but not $300 more, I paid $409 to my door 2 years ago through Rocky Road Outfitters. I had to use Thorleys because the Pace Setters aren't CARB legal, but I would have chosen the Thorleys regardless. Oh, Mr510 in Warshington just started offering headers also with ball flanges and ceramic coating. I believe they are the most expensive of the 3 and I have not seen the product but he seems to do good work. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nefarious Posted May 2, 2012 Share Posted May 2, 2012 (edited) I got obx stainless headers for like 90 shipped on eBay. Been rocking em for 6 months and I love them. They don't come with a y pipe though, gotta make your own. they fit up just fine, no fitment issues Edited May 2, 2012 by Nefarious Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andreus009 Posted May 2, 2012 Share Posted May 2, 2012 I got the cermic coated headers from 4x4parts.com. The don't specifically say it on the website by they are by Pacesetter...or at least they were. So far they have held up pretty well and don't show any signs of rusting. Of course they are a good deal more $$ then the plain painted ones but as B says...the paint will flake and then you got rust. That was the positive side. Now the negative. I was one of those people that had a difficult time installing them. Biggest problem was fitting the cross-over pipe to the two headers. I had to use ratchet strap to pull the ends of the headers closer together to get the cross-over to go on and also ended up triming a bit off the end of the passenger side header. Maybe my order of assembly operations was off a bit. I tightened the headers to the block first and then tried to fit the cross-over pipe. Maybe if I had left some looseness at the head, fit the cross-over, and then final tightened it would have gone better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BikerJared Posted May 2, 2012 Author Share Posted May 2, 2012 Thanks for the tips. I checked out Rugged Rocks and gave them a call. I'm hoping to hear back soon. Their site says they are expecting a batch of DT Headers on the 4th, so I may have just lucked out. Is there anything weird about installing headers on these cars? My Sentra for example needed a modified EGR tube. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BikerJared Posted May 2, 2012 Author Share Posted May 2, 2012 I just spoke with Steve on the phone - my earlier post was pre-mature. Steve is trying to put together another batch for order right now. He's got a list with a few people on it, but would like to get 2-3 more if possible. If anybody else wants to buy headers, this would be a good time to do it. Plus it would help me get a set. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andreus009 Posted May 2, 2012 Share Posted May 2, 2012 Are you aware of the manifold bolt breakage issue? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BikerJared Posted May 2, 2012 Author Share Posted May 2, 2012 Yep. When I swapped out the starter day before yesterday, I was removing the heat sheild from the manifold and the stud closest to the firewall on the passenger side dropped right out. I've spent a few hours here since, reading about various gotchas (manual tranny apparently needs to be overfilled somehow for example). I'll need to get an extractor and replace as many studs as I can. I've read about some people using replacement studs from other cars because they're made from a different grade of steel. Is that worth the trouble or should I just get the stock studs? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andreus009 Posted May 2, 2012 Share Posted May 2, 2012 In kind replacements will probably crack/break like original. Get the upgraded studs or replace with a stronger bolt like others have done. I believe (don't quoute me) some have used the metric equivalent of grade 8 bolts instead of studs. I'm sure someone can chime in on what kind of bolt they used instead of the studs. Personally, I went with the studs but they are a bit pricey as I recall. While you are at it I suggest/recommend you replace all studs. Extracting studs can be a major PIA and you don't want to have to go in and do it again. 2 out of 3 went fairly easy for me. The 3rd..well lets just say part of it is still in there and I had to tap what I could for a smaller stud. Key trick with the extractors is to be sure to get them on center (easier said then done). Also, before you even start soak thinks with penetrating oil. I know there is pinned write up on the subject of replacing these studs. I followed it and came out OK. The problems stud was just bad luck and bad access. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andreus009 Posted May 2, 2012 Share Posted May 2, 2012 Oh yeah...on the over filling of the tranny be aware of the gear oil you use. That is another gotcha. Alot of the newer oils have additives that eat the brass synchros. The safe bet I hear is RedLine. RoyalPurple is safe too but $$$. I think this link covers the gear oil in the tranny subject pretty well http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=31943&hl=%2Bgear+%2Boil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted May 2, 2012 Share Posted May 2, 2012 Yep. When I swapped out the starter day before yesterday, I was removing the heat sheild from the manifold and the stud closest to the firewall on the passenger side dropped right out. I've spent a few hours here since, reading about various gotchas (manual tranny apparently needs to be overfilled somehow for example). I'll need to get an extractor and replace as many studs as I can. I've read about some people using replacement studs from other cars because they're made from a different grade of steel. Is that worth the trouble or should I just get the stock studs? Good Man! There aren't too many known failure points and I'd argue that all have been discussed here so looking around is well worth the effort. Here is a basic issue list that may or may not apply to you. Auto tranny cooler, manual tranny fill level, manual tranny GL-4 only, frame rust, body rust, exhaust burn under drivers foot, tension rod bushing, center link and idler arm being front end weak points, fuel rail hoses leaking, liter tap, not changing the timing belt and WTF is up with the oil filter location? You shouldn't even be able to get the 'stock' studs any more, they were inadequate. The replacement should be the 300zx turbo studs (same dimensions, different grade) and if you do buy them, call Alkorahil (aka Rob Lacy). On line dealership parts at almost local auto parts store prices and he knows exactly what you need (he's on his second or third wd21). WWW.FACTORYNISSANPARTS.COM phone 1-866-742-0297 I believe (don't quoute me) some have used the metric equivalent of grade 8 bolts instead of studs. I'm sure someone can chime in on what kind of bolt they used instead of the studs. Personally, I went with the studs but they are a bit pricey as I recall. While you are at it I suggest/recommend you replace all studs. Extracting studs can be a major PIA and you don't want to have to go in and do it again. 2 out of 3 went fairly easy for me. The 3rd..well lets just say part of it is still in there and I had to tap what I could for a smaller stud. Key trick with the extractors is to be sure to get them on center (easier said then done). Also, before you even start soak thinks with penetrating oil. I know there is pinned write up on the subject of replacing these studs. I followed it and came out OK. The problems stud was just bad luck and bad access. Exactly right and it was I, among others. M8x1.28x30mm hex head bolts. No issues yet but I haven't put a lot of miles on it recently. Yes, one stud/warsher/nut was aprox $5 so $30 a side. Some think it's worth the dime for piece of mind, I think it is a ridiculous price for simple fasteners and I happened to have a box of them... As long as you don't have much rust or none are broken sub-surface in the head, you won't have much problem removing them with the right tool (I used two old nuts counter torqued) and if you do one, do all, especially if you are installing headers. Headers won't put more strain on them, but if you go that far, go all the way! B 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The_Magicians_Eye Posted May 3, 2012 Share Posted May 3, 2012 This is what I recommend based on my experience with this problem. Buy the headers take your truck to a good shop NOT one of those brand named exhaust shops. Have them install them and fix the studs. Buy the upgraded studs or replace them with the highest grade bolt you can get. If you start the stud repair process on your own the shops are going to bop you over the head when you finally throw in the towel. There simpley wasn't enough room for my tools to get the broken studs out. Two shops flat out didn't want to touch it and I ended out having to tow my truck to 3 different shops before I finally found someone that would fix it. If one shop does the complete install and repair it's going to cost you but in my opinion it's worth it. No issues for you other than paying them. They'll make sure your headers connect with you existing exhaust properly too. The flange on my Pacesetter headers that connects to the stock exhaust didn't match up quite right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamesRich Posted May 3, 2012 Share Posted May 3, 2012 Just make sure who ever you get to do it has a good reputation. I've been trying to install a set of Experimental Engineering headers and keep running into problems. These are some awesome looking headers by the way! Thick flanges, beautiful welds, should last the life of the truck. My main problem is time, but the biggest problem I hit so far is that some ass clown previously changed one of the studs on my truck. He drilled it out of place so the header flange wouldn’t fit. Then when I backed the stud out I realized he drilled into the water jacket and coolant started leaking out! So basically the head is screwed! It looked like he put JB weld to keep it from leaking so I will try that with a plug and not run a bolt in that spot. James Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andreus009 Posted May 3, 2012 Share Posted May 3, 2012 As long as you don't have much rust or none are broken sub-surface in the head, you won't have much problem removing them with the right tool (I used two old nuts counter torqued) and if you do one, do all, especially if you are installing headers. Headers won't put more strain on them, but if you go that far, go all the way! B Guess I was the unlucky one. All 3 of mine were at the surface or sub surface. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andreus009 Posted May 3, 2012 Share Posted May 3, 2012 Good Man! There aren't too many known failure points and I'd argue that all have been discussed here so looking around is well worth the effort. Here is a basic issue list that may or may not apply to you. Auto tranny cooler, manual tranny fill level, manual tranny GL-4 only, frame rust, body rust, exhaust burn under drivers foot, tension rod bushing, center link and idler arm being front end weak points, fuel rail hoses leaking, liter tap, not changing the timing belt and WTF is up with the oil filter location? B BTW, good call on outlining some of the common issues to check into on these rigs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted May 3, 2012 Share Posted May 3, 2012 Thanks! You started it, so I figured I'd post the usual suspects. I'm pretty sure there is a thread on this in the new members section... Exactly right and it was I, among others. M8x1.25x30mm hex head bolts, grade 10.9 (SAE grade 8 equiv). No issues yet but I haven't put a lot of miles on it recently. Yes, one factory 300zx stud/warsher/nut was aprox $5 so $30 a side. Some think it's worth the dime for piece of mind, I think it is a ridiculous price for simple fasteners and I happened to have a box of the bolts that I used... B I had to clean that up a bit, it barely made sense when I re-read it. Sorry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BikerJared Posted May 5, 2012 Author Share Posted May 5, 2012 Thanks for the excellent information. This will hopefully save me a lot of trouble in the future. I sold an RX8 to get this truck and have a deal with my wife to take my usual car payment and basically build it out. As I get into more engine work, I'll likely be depending on this forum more. I've found some good info and some people that have done almost exactly what I want to do. I'm pretty stoked about it and will keep everyone posted as this progresses. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alkorahil Posted May 7, 2012 Share Posted May 7, 2012 As far as Genuine Nissan Parts go, the old/original part number for the studs automatically supercedes to the new part number no matter what dealer you go to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteeevO Posted June 29, 2012 Share Posted June 29, 2012 Hey guys, Here's the latest on getting DT headers. http://ruggedrocksoffroad.com/blog/2012/06/28/nissan-pathfinder-hardbody-headers-by-doug-thorley/ In short they haven't been made sine 2006 and have had a price increase. check out the blog for full details. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BikerJared Posted July 8, 2012 Author Share Posted July 8, 2012 Just saw this... thought I was subscribed to my own thread, but wasn't... I'm still game. What do I need to do to make an order? Just buy them on the site? Also, I'm assuming these bolt up to the stock exhaust... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteeevO Posted October 1, 2012 Share Posted October 1, 2012 Sorry for the super late replay. These are due in, in about 3 weeks. Feel free to order them online or give me a call. 909-547-4651 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted October 2, 2012 Share Posted October 2, 2012 My exhaust manifold is cracked and wont pass emmissions. I'm looking at headers to replace it. I can find Pacesetter headers in stock at Jegs and other places. I've got a Pacesetter header on my Sentra but it didn't fit right and was a pain to install. Does anybody have experience with these? Does Doug Thorley still make headers for this car and are they worth the extra $300? Other header recommendations? They are worth every penny if you want to run smog legal headers. The ones about to come in look like they are all ceramic coated too. The only issue I ran into with them is that they do not include a clamp in their kit for the cross over pipe slip joint. You can either weld them there or use a 2 inch lap joint band clamp with some sealant. The other thing is you will have to build your own 2.5" exhaust system to run these short tubes properly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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