shasdakota Posted July 29, 2011 Share Posted July 29, 2011 hi guys, i'm hoping someone can help me with this. remember i have a Terrano, not a Pathy, so things may be different here, but i dont think so. I read the directions in my manual on the brake bleeding process, and i know what i'm doing here, my question is about the sequence. it says to start with the valves on the master cylinder, and if i dont have any valves on my master cylinder, to start at the valves on my load sensing valve. So I went to look at my master cylinder, and i'm not sure if i have valves on it or not. i dont have any valves on it that resemble the valves found at each wheel (with the plastic cap on them), but i do have 3 metal tubes running to my master cylinder with a nut on them. Are these the bleeder valves on my master cylinder? and if so, how am i supposed to attach a bleeder hose to them? I went to go look for my load sensing valve, but i dont appear to have one. my manual says it should be found on my right frame infront of the fuel tank. i looked everywhere and i dont see anything that resembles it. So, does anyone know what i'm talking about? Sorry i dont have a pic right now. If no one knows i can get a pic up. Are the bleeder valves on the master cylinder supposed to resemble the bleeder valves found at each wheel, with the rubber caps? or do they look different? If anyone can comment whether or not their '91 Terrano/Pathy has a load sensing valve or not i'd appreciate that also. Thanks, Josh Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted July 29, 2011 Share Posted July 29, 2011 (edited) I have a 91 pathfinder. I'm pretty sure my MC has no bleeder screws, which means to bleed it, you've got to take the lines off and make a mess... I have never bled mine. I do not have a load sensing valve. Rather than just looking around randomly for one though, I would try to follow the hydraulic lines. If you go from the MC to the brakes and there is no load sensing valve in the line, then you don't have one I have rear disc. Edited July 29, 2011 by sewebster Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nunya Posted July 29, 2011 Share Posted July 29, 2011 As stated, it would be a good idea to just follow he hydraulic brake lines to see if you have a LSV. If not just go about your proper non-LSV bleed sequence(remember to double check your orders if using a LHD Pathfinder manual for a RHD Terrano, stuff may be reversed since they are backwards from each other with some of the placements) The metal tubes with nuts on them are the brake lines, a bleed screw would look just as one on a caliper or wheel cylinder would (not necessarily having he plastic/rubber cap though as alot of mechanics are too lazy to take 2 seconds to pop it back on) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverton Posted July 30, 2011 Share Posted July 30, 2011 (edited) The three lines running off your master cylinder go to the front passenger, front driver, and a T on the rear differential. I'm going to bet you do NOT have a load sensing valve. IF you have ABS, the module will be on the frame, right around the B pillar. On the LHD pathy's it's on the passenger side. I would bleed it this way: Driver Rear -> Passenger Rear -> Driver Front -> Passenger Front - > ABS Module (if so equipped.) Edited July 30, 2011 by silverton 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted July 30, 2011 Share Posted July 30, 2011 Um, sry to step on you there but traditionally (once the MC is bled) you start with the farthest item and work closer this allows the line with the most contaminants (because its longest) to be purged so there are less residual contaminants to spread to other lines. Left rear is the farthest because the rear T is on the right side of center. Left rear> Right rear> LSV (If you have it)>ABS (if you have it) Passenger front (longer cause lines come from the driver side)> driver front I think When it says bleed the MC valves it assumes starting with a dry MC and you would have hoses from the 3 outlets going back into the reservoir while you pump it. LSV's were typically found on the Pickup D21 chassis and not the Wagon WD21 chassis. it uses lever attached to the axle with a spring to proportion the rear brakes based on how low the vechicle sits (weight or load does this) I would just follow the traditional order listed above and not worry about the MC. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nunya Posted July 30, 2011 Share Posted July 30, 2011 Traditional is the general rule of thumb but our FSMs actually DO state LSV first (when applicable) the LR-RR-LF-RF. Trust me it's fresh in my head from attempting to explain it to someone (even posting a pic I personally took out of my FSM of the directions and on my own checked a bleed sequence book printed by Wagner AND checked Mitchel OnDemand). On a RHD truck though it may be reversed to RR-LR-RF-LF due to the master cyl. being on the opposite side of te firewall. Do I know why it's backwards from normal order? Nope, all I can do is repeat what has been written as correct. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shasdakota Posted July 30, 2011 Author Share Posted July 30, 2011 (edited) hey guys, thanks for all the help trying to get this sorted out! yes, i've followed the brake lines back from the MC, they dont go to a LSV... I dont think i have one... and as i understand the sequence for me will be RL-RR-FL-FR... My Hayne's manual doesnt say anything about bleeding the ABS module. all it says is that if i have ABS, disconnect the negative cable from the battery before beginning. i'm not even sure if i have ABS. how do i check? EDIT- about checking for ABS, the only thing i can think of is whether or not my tires skid when i slam on the brakes. but is there any other more concrete way of checking? nunya- there's nothing that resembles valves on my MC (with or without the rubber cap), just the metal brake lines with nuts. So, just to be clear, the consensus is, if i dont have a LSV, start at the rear right wheel and work forward, forget about the MC? I'm using this: http://store.motiveproducts.com/bleeders-c15.aspx it allows you to bleed your brakes without a helper. you fill it up with new brake fluid, connect it to your MC resovoir, and pressurize it to 15psi. then you go to the first valve you want to bleed, connect your bleeder hose routed to a catch container, and crack the valve open. when you see clean fluid start to come out, close the valve. all i have to do is make sure the "power bleeder" stays full of fluid, and at the correct pressure. I havent tried using it yet, this will be my first time. and I havent ever bled the brakes on a Pathy/Terrano, hence the questions about the sequence. this product should make this job real easy! cant wait to try it out. just want to make sure i know where all my bleeder valves are first... Thanks again for all the help! Edited July 30, 2011 by shasdakota Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverton Posted July 30, 2011 Share Posted July 30, 2011 The three lines running off your master cylinder go to the front passenger, front driver, and a T on the rear differential. I'm going to bet you do NOT have a load sensing valve. IF you have ABS, the module will be on the frame, right around the B pillar. On the LHD pathy's it's on the passenger side. I would bleed it this way: Driver Rear -> Passenger Rear -> Driver Front -> Passenger Front - > ABS Module (if so equipped.) Quoting my own post as it seems you may have missed it. And yes, disconnecting the neg terminal will work for bleeding the ABS Module, but you could also just unplug it, there is an electrical connector on the module. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shasdakota Posted July 30, 2011 Author Share Posted July 30, 2011 silverton- yes, i did miss the part about checking for the ABS module near the B pillar. thanks, will check... unless i get anymore concrete tips on the brake bleeding sequence, looks like i will go at it tomorrow starting with the bleeder valves at each wheel, and forget about the MC.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverton Posted July 30, 2011 Share Posted July 30, 2011 There are no bleeder valves on the Master Cylinder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shasdakota Posted July 31, 2011 Author Share Posted July 31, 2011 silverton- thats how it seems... strange how the manual directs you there... the last time i helped my buddy bleed the brakes on his car, i was the helper, and i wasnt paying attention real well, but i'm pretty sure he just started at the wheels.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nunya Posted July 31, 2011 Share Posted July 31, 2011 Like every other option a wd21 has, there's no rhythm or rhyme to them so there is a possibility some DID have bleeders in the master cylinders so the manual has to cover all basis. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dowser Posted August 1, 2011 Share Posted August 1, 2011 My guess to why its written in reverse order is because the vehicle is an import and made originally with the RHD for the Japan market. So if that were the case, LR Would be the Farthest from the Master Cylinder. Perhaps some things got lost in translation for North American Manuals with LHD vehicles..... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted August 1, 2011 Share Posted August 1, 2011 Probably doesn't even matter all that much... just get all the air out! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shasdakota Posted August 1, 2011 Author Share Posted August 1, 2011 (edited) thanks for all the help guys! did my brakes yesterday. everything went fine and my brakes feel great! my opower bleeder worked great. highly recomended to anyone who has to work alone, or just prefers working alone. it makes the possibilty of air being sucked in almost impossible, unless you run out of fluid in the power bleeder. my brake fluid wasnt that dirty looking, it was dark yellow, like veg oil, but now it's clear! i've had the vehicle for about 2 years and i this is the first time i've done it, and there's no records of it in my maintenance records from the previous owners, it may have never been done. the bleeder valve's were very stuck. i had to use a piece of pipe as a breaker bar to open the valves. Dowser- The only manual i have specifically for my Terrano is just for the TD27T engine, its more of a engine service manual than a Terrano service manual. It doesnt cover anything that doesnt have to do with the engine. Its all i can find for my truck, and i've done a lot of research. so i'm using a Haynes Pathfinder manual for the rest of my truck. I thought i was supposed to work from the the brake bleeder valve furthest from my MC and work my way forward. my MC is on the right hand side of my engine bay, so i went LR-RR-LF-RF. if anyone knows where/how to get a Terrano manual, please let me know. Sort of off topic, but i dont want to make another dedicated topic for this subject. does anyone know which hose going from my thermostat through my firewall to my heater is the input/output hose? it's not covered in my TD27T manual, and its different from the Pathfinder. This is where i'm still at a loss for information because i dont have an actual Terrano manual. So far as i can tell it doesnt exist, but i dont know how that could be. i've contacted retailers in NZ/AUS that sell the TD27T manuals, and they've never heard of a Terrano manual either. if nobody knows, then i guess i will have drain off some coolant from my rad, disconnect both hoses from my firewall, put them in a bucket, turn my truck on, and see which one spits out coolant. but if somebody actually knows which is which, it would make my job a lot easier. here's some pics of my thermostat-heater hoses: Here you can see both hose's exiting from my firewall, going to my thermostat: The top hose goes here, it is the hose on the right hand side of the picture (left hand side of engine bay). And this is where the bottom hose leads, it is the hose on the left hand side of the picture (right hand side of engine bay). All the help is always appreciated! Edited August 1, 2011 by shasdakota Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted August 1, 2011 Share Posted August 1, 2011 My guess to why its written in reverse order is because the vehicle is an import and made originally with the RHD for the Japan market. So if that were the case, LR Would be the Farthest from the Master Cylinder. Perhaps some things got lost in translation for North American Manuals with LHD vehicles..... I was wondering about that from another thread. It just doesn't make sense that this ONE vehicle has a different bleeding order than normal. I've bleed my brakes the normal way and there wasn't an issue, but I wasn't aware that Nissan changed it up in the FSM. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
long Posted August 2, 2011 Share Posted August 2, 2011 When i did up the brakeing system on my TD2.7T i started at the wheel the fertherest away from the brake master cyl and worked my way forward and to date i have had no problems with it at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shasdakota Posted August 2, 2011 Author Share Posted August 2, 2011 (edited) hey guys, does anyone want to snap a pic of their ABS module? I'm still not sure if i have ABS or not. i just dis-connected my negative battery terminals when i did my brakes. I looked for my ABS module near the B pillar on the frame, and i followed my brake lines looking for them to lead into anything, and i dont think they do, but i'd like to be sure, as having ABS or not changes the way i should be using my brakes. and i'm not exactly sure what my ABS module would look like. Those of you with ABS, do you have a ABS warning light on your dash? cause i dont. thanks guys. long- thats just what i did.... I just re-checked my Hayne's Pathfinder manual, and it seems there is a mis-print in the manuals for LHD Pathy's. I wasnt sure why some guys posted the order the way they thought the brakes should be bled and put RF before LF. if your supposed to go from bleeder valves located from furthest to closest to MC, on a RHD vehicle it would be: LR-RR-LF-RF, just as Long and i did. on a LHD vehicle it would be: RR-LR-RF-LF. So those of you with regular LHD Pathy's, you may not want to follow the sequence found in your manual. they say to go RR-LR-LF-RF. i think you LHD owners need to switch RF before LF. Edited August 2, 2011 by shasdakota Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted August 2, 2011 Share Posted August 2, 2011 It would be rear only abs, so it probably wouldn't change the way you drive too much. Another way of checking is that if you have ABS, there will be an electrical connection to a speed sensor right where the driveshaft connects to the rear diff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shasdakota Posted August 3, 2011 Author Share Posted August 3, 2011 ok, great sewebster, i'll see if i can find it. its good to know it doesnt change the way i use my brakes having rear ABS only. i didnt know that. i'd still love to see a pic if anyone's got one... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted August 3, 2011 Share Posted August 3, 2011 ok, great sewebster, i'll see if i can find it. its good to know it doesnt change the way i use my brakes having rear ABS only. i didnt know that. i'd still love to see a pic if anyone's got one... I'm not exactly trying to give driving advice, I'm just saying that since you don't have front ABS, and front is where most of the braking is going on, you still need to be careful not to lock your front brakes and therefore don't necessarily just jam the brakes on full bore and hold. You do want to not be confused by abs pulsing or whatever. But probably it's hard to lock up the front brakes in the first place, which is presumably why there is no front ABS. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverton Posted August 4, 2011 Share Posted August 4, 2011 the only reason some of our trucks have rear abs, is because in the event of a panic stop, 80-95% of the momentous weight gets put on the front wheels. Leaves nearly no weight on the rear, AND if the rears lock up, it will most likely put you in to a spin. I will note, I have locked my front wheels with nearly new BFG M/T KM2's... brakes on a pathy are more than adequate. In the event of a brake lock up, relieve brake pressure and regain traction, you'll slow down quicker if the tires are not skidding across the pavement/gravel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shasdakota Posted August 4, 2011 Author Share Posted August 4, 2011 right. i thought if i dont have ABS, then i dont want to hold constant pressure on the brakes if i'm braking hard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverton Posted August 4, 2011 Share Posted August 4, 2011 You can hold constant pressure without ABS... just as soon as you hear a tire lock up, let off just a tad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain_Crazy Posted March 3, 2014 Share Posted March 3, 2014 I heard abs needs to bleed by a shop ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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