01silvapathy Posted December 10, 2010 Share Posted December 10, 2010 Okay so at the moment with my new lift in the rear my axle is pushed to the passenger side an inch or so....no biggie for driving on the street but it is an issue as soon as I go wheel and flex up the axle. My tire rubs on the shock at near full flex wearing off the paint as well as making a TERRIBLE NOISE! It pretty much stops the truck too. So my question is how much do I know to drop the panhard? I have a 4in sfd but the rear spacers were no where near 4in. So my real question is whats the angle of the panhard on a stock rig or how much do I know to drop it? Should I go with the height of the spacers or just go with 4in? Keep in mind I have the 2in lift coils ontop of the lift. Looking to do this tomorrow or saturday since its my last weekend here at school where I have the tools needed to do this. Thanks for the help guys! And here are some quick pics And I know that this could most likely be remedied with larger offset wheels since they are the stock bs...and im on 11.5 wide tires. But I dont have the money for them and ill just get it to where its as close to stock as possible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverton Posted December 10, 2010 Share Posted December 10, 2010 panhard rod should be parallel to the axle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pathfounder Posted December 10, 2010 Share Posted December 10, 2010 panhard rod should be parallel to the axle. Correct. When the panhard rod is parallel to the axle, it has the least horizontal displacement when the axle travels. Measure the difference in heights of each end of the rod. That difference is how much the rod needs to be dropped on the chassis end (or raised at the axle end). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muddfildvaynes Posted December 10, 2010 Share Posted December 10, 2010 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted December 10, 2010 Share Posted December 10, 2010 I need one of those so badly. Doesn't loot too hard to make. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muddfildvaynes Posted December 10, 2010 Share Posted December 10, 2010 It helps out ALOT.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverton Posted December 10, 2010 Share Posted December 10, 2010 When I lifted my wd21 I ran without one for a bit, didn't really notice anything, even wheeling at full flex. Then when I got it, at full flex my axle was located to the point that flexing both directions, wheels rubbed on the frame. Was weird. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01silvapathy Posted December 10, 2010 Author Share Posted December 10, 2010 Thanks for all the info guys, esp you Mudd! Going to be making one of these later tonight if not tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pathfounder Posted December 10, 2010 Share Posted December 10, 2010 The chassis mount point may need to be moved forward as well because of the lift moving the axle forward. The point is, the rod needs to be exactly parallel to the axle when looking from any point of view (top, rear, side). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01silvapathy Posted December 10, 2010 Author Share Posted December 10, 2010 Okay this seems easy enough to make. If im reading this correct than there are two sleeves that go in the top for support...I guess to keep it from pinching together once torqued. Thanks alot for the pics man, im a visual learner so its extremely helpful! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muddfildvaynes Posted December 10, 2010 Share Posted December 10, 2010 (edited) Okay this seems easy enough to make. If im reading this correct than there are two sleeves that go in the top for support...I guess to keep it from pinching together once torqued. Thanks alot for the pics man, im a visual learner so its extremely helpful! No prob, and it has metal sleeves that are welded in for the bolts to go through to keep it from pinching like you said; you will have to drill a hole for the second bolt but otherwise its not that hard to do. I used a jack and a hammer to get the panhard in the new holder. Edited December 10, 2010 by muddfildvaynes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted December 11, 2010 Share Posted December 11, 2010 Correct. When the panhard rod is parallel to the axle, it has the least horizontal displacement when the axle travels. Measure the difference in heights of each end of the rod. That difference is how much the rod needs to be dropped on the chassis end (or raised at the axle end). 3-7 degrees higer on the right side will cause a slight downforce on the axle whenever it tries to shift to the right (hard acceleration). But then again; one these are not muscle cars and two the r50 panhard is on the left side of the frame making it akward to locate the frame side panhard below the axle on a 4x4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nunya Posted December 11, 2010 Share Posted December 11, 2010 those specs wd21 compliant as well? Kinda wanna make one now if it's that simple... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted December 11, 2010 Share Posted December 11, 2010 no, they are not. wd21 HAS DIFFERANT bolt locations and is on the right side. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nunya Posted December 11, 2010 Share Posted December 11, 2010 i know the left/right difference, but the bolt difference was more what I meant... shoulda been pacific. Off to hunt for wd21 spec measurments then! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01silvapathy Posted December 11, 2010 Author Share Posted December 11, 2010 Its the same idea though. So just compensate for the amount of lift you have and then go from there in terms of bolt locations and such Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shift220 Posted December 11, 2010 Share Posted December 11, 2010 That was my drawing but it is slightly incorrect. The holes should be 9/16" on the left side (top and bottom) and the upper right one should be (1/2"). Not sure if it will work for the WD's. R50 Panhard Drop Bracket I can make this any drop height you would like and it also comes powder coated Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01silvapathy Posted December 12, 2010 Author Share Posted December 12, 2010 Thanks again for all the helps guys, I finally got it done tonight took us 6 hours to get a completed drop bracket cause we made two lol. We followed the plans from above and made it and realized it looks like crap when its on there, so we modified it to be alot easier to make and lower profile so it does not stick out as much. Here is a teaser pic, I will make a legit thread on it tomorrow but its 3 30 am here and im goin to bed! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Morningwould Posted December 12, 2010 Share Posted December 12, 2010 I found it easier to just make an adjustable bar. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pathfounder Posted December 12, 2010 Share Posted December 12, 2010 The adjustable bar still has the problem of causing the axle to move laterally during travel. I'm sure it works, but dropping the bar is the better solution if someone is running a very high lift (like the OP). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01silvapathy Posted December 13, 2010 Author Share Posted December 13, 2010 Even though that bar is longer which would help it with binding issues, it still does not bring the panhard back to the original location before the lift was done. Just went and tested it out, works great! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muddfildvaynes Posted December 13, 2010 Share Posted December 13, 2010 (edited) glad to hear it worked out Edited December 13, 2010 by muddfildvaynes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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