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Rear Hatch Support... problem =)


statikuz
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Alrighty, so I was replacing the weak rear hatch support on my Pathy today, and the passenger side one went on and together without a hitch. However, on the driver side, I was unbolting the spherical head bolts, the bottom one came out fine, leaving the nut that's welded on the other side, but when I took out the top one, the nut that SHOULD be welded securely on the other side, fell off and went clinking down inside my tailgate.

 

So what do I do now? If you go out and check out yours, you'll see what I'm talking about, its the upper one that goes into the frame around the rear glass. I heard it fall all the way down inside, so I might be able to get it out by taking off the big trim piece, but that doesn't really help me, since I can't get it back on the other side of the metal.

 

Any ideas?

 

And yeah, I already thought of just forgetting the nut and welding the spherical bolt into the hole itself. Too bad I don't have a welder. Looking for some easier solutions. =D Thanks!

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Yeah, that's what I'm thinkin', but all the good that does me is really to get the old nut out... where I would need to hold it would be all the way up inside the skinny part of the gate that goes around the glass y'kno. Beats me how they even got them in there in the first place... any other ideas? Anyone think JB weld around the outside of the new bolt would hold it enough in place? I'm not thinkin' so but I don't JB weld too much stuff... :D

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Don't use JB turd on anything... That crap is worthless... Use duct tape before that stuff... But really,,,

I'd say find a nut that fits it and then get your power drill and drill that hole out big enough so the nut will go thru tightly... Then run down to your local muffler shop and get one of those guys to tack weld that nut on in the inside like it goes... Bring a 6'er of beer for the lucky guy you get to do the work... Don't worry about getting that nut that fell back. I'd say just run down to the hardware store and find a new one. It shouldn't take the guy welding more that 3-5 tacks to completely seal it... If you want to make it real easy on the welder guy I'd say buy an extra long bolt, like 3-6 inches that fits the nut you buy. That will give the welder a good "handle" so he can weld it up with one hand and hold the nut in place with the other. Key here is to make his job easy as prossible so the guy will actually do it... Hit it with a wire brush and paint it when it's done so you don't get a rust problem...

 

 

Second idea,,,

 

Get a really strong magnet and use it to grab that nut from the inside. Now work it all the way back up to that hole and it should already be flat side toward the hole so then all you have to do is be very patient and keep working at it till you get it treaded back on, but then you'd probably need some kinda back-up on the nut on the nut or it'll never get tight.

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I would say JB weld, But get the Better JB weld. (they have a High Temp/Strength Formula). Ive JB welded Manifolds, Oil Pans, Bolts ETC> it DOES WORK EXECELLENT AND DOES LIVE UP TO THE WEIGHT RATINGS IF YOU MIX IT CORRECTLY!!!!! But Clean the area of Paint First. Its a 5 minute fix and Once it dries, Its not going anywhere. Ive used it Before for hatch Shocks on a ford Escort, NO problem whatsoever, and its now 5 Years later...

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Yeah, I might try the magnet thing; cuz I have one of those telescoping pen jobs that ought to hold it in place, but Trailchaser's right, it won't get tight enough, it'll just loosen up over time and I'll end up with the same problem again. =D I might try the JB weld and see if it holds it... after all, I can always try something else...

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... it won't get tight enough, it'll just loosen up over time and I'll end up with the same problem again.

you need to replace the nut with either an external lockwasher nut or a serrated flange nut (I'd go with the first)

 

nut page (examples)

 

Get it started and pull on the bolt to hold the nut against the body as you turn it. The lock washer will hold it in place and you will be able to tighten it sufficiently. Definately get the old one out of the body though... that rattle would drive you batty over time.

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Another option could be to use a "rivnut". We use them in our sheetmetal fabrication division at work. They work on the same principle as a pop rivet except the internal pin is actually a metal thread. You would only need to drill clearance hole for rivnut body in "old hole" position, insert and engage with rivnut gun!Sounds easy but would certainly help if you knew someone in sheetmetal trade!

At least you wouldn't be stuffing around with magnets etc

Good Luck

Buzz :beer:

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