ChemExposure
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Everything posted by ChemExposure
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How-To: R50 Rear Disc Brake Conversion
ChemExposure replied to hawairish's topic in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
Nevermind, a hammer, cold chisel and two steel bars work just as good as the proper tool for the job. -
How-To: R50 Rear Disc Brake Conversion
ChemExposure replied to hawairish's topic in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
Did you end up having to use the Nissan tool #J-45073? Aside from waiting for the rotors to come in the mail the rear axle nut is the only thing holding me back from getting this done. -
The guys at O'reillys may have given you a rear wheel seal. The ones for the front should have an extra lip on them to prevent it from going too far into the hub. The guys at Canadian tire pulled the same thing on me, I installed mine anyways and as I was pressing it in the metal retainer spring snapped like yours. I took the one off my old seal put it on and called it a day. https://www.autopartsway.ca/partdetails.cfm?w0133-1638754/ndk/nissan/2001/pathfinder/se/3.5l-v6/allb/driveline-and-axles/gaskets-and-sealing-systems/wheel-seal/pagenum1/tabs Those are the correct ones that match the OEM seals.
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I'm very fond of my Rancho Struts. They're very stiff but have enough give to them that you don't notice bumps or potholes. Like Mjotrainbrain said, KYB struts and shocks are good, everything else from them is junk. You might as well do ball joints and CV's while you're down there and if you get the chance jack it up to see if there's problems with other parts. I found out one of my ball joints was bad while I was replacing the strut so I ended up having to do the job twice. Wheel bearings and brakes are easy and worthwhile to do too.
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01 W/ LSD Whine at 160k? Normal or nah?
ChemExposure replied to PrecisionX's topic in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
If it happens at idle then it probably isn't the LSD. Take off your belts and check for bad bearings, my alternator bearing started to get really bad around 225K as well as the idler pulley bearings. Does it get better as it warms up? -
How-To: R50 Rear Disc Brake Conversion
ChemExposure replied to hawairish's topic in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
How much more do you figure you could safely tow with rear disc brakes and the WD21 master cylinder? I've heard from a couple people now that the 5000 pound tow capacity is mostly due to the braking efficiency. I've contacted someone with a 93; I'm hoping it's an SE. My drums need servicing anyways so I might as well make the jump now. I'll post back with how that goes. -
Adding an additional 12v Power Point
ChemExposure replied to Mrelcocko's topic in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
I've had my interior panels off for so long that I forgot I even had one of those! By the way man, this might hurt a little bit to hear but I'm almost sure you're holding the factory harness for the 12V connection in one of those pictures. I've found that Nissan luckily only had one wiring harness throughout their packages, at least it's the case on every Canadian Pathfinder I've seen. But hey, you've got some nice wiring for an auxilary tire carrier mounted backup light or a low powered amplifier now! -
Oh nice, well I'm definitely going to keep my eye out for one. It'd be perfect for a light dimming circuit for the bush bar.
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I'm getting one of them wifi/bluetooth OBDII scanners tomorrow so I'll report back on what that can read out. Mrelcocko, what's that switch that has the 1 2 3? Is it a light dimmer?
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Installing New Front Inner/Outer Bearings and Seals
ChemExposure replied to ryjaytay38's topic in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
It's pretty easy, a bearing greaser fitting for a grease gun helps out a lot. I did mine by hand and holy did it ever make it a pain in the ass. As for the tensioning ring, I did mine with a phillips screwdriver. You just tighten it until it makes contact with the bearing and pushes it in a bit to seat everything in place properly, back it off then tighten it again so it just barely makes contact with the bearing, enough for the ring to catch when it spins so it self tightens and then from there I just turned the hub around four or five times untit it felt right and there wasn't any play when moving the hub then I put the two screws back in and called er a day. There's a couple videos on youtube, just search up generic terms like pathfinder hub bearing or terrano bearing repack. You might actually be able to get away with regreasing your bearings, mine were in pretty good shape. I've driven for about a year now no issues with a repacking although I do plan on replacing the bearings soon anyways when I get locking hubs. You'll need snap ring pliers as well to even start the job. I guess you might not have this issue, but make sure you get front wheel seals and not the rear ones. While the rear ones do fit and as I've found out do work they're a pain in the ass to get in properly level, I had to use my press on the cocksuckers. The front seals have a small ridge that prevents them from being inserted too deeply which really makes things easy so if you go to Canadian tire and they give you a rear seal and call it a front... Just go back there and slap the guy, don't listen to him. If you were ever going to do your brakes now is a good time too. -
I might try this out on the trim around the windows and my roof rack mounts. I wonder if dust and pollen would stick to it though.
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R50 Tire Carrier Mod: Let's settle this!
ChemExposure replied to hawairish's topic in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
It seems to me the one major drawback of having a spare tire carrier is parallel parking, it would make more sense in a right side driving country to have it open to the left so you can access the trunk from the passenger/sidewalk side. So considering that you can put these on without any reinforcement, do you see any major issues aside from a lot of work flipping it backwards and mounting it so it opens to the left? Everything seems pretty straightforward, just basic cutting and welding. The smaller inserted curved tubes might be tricky but other then that am I missing something major that would make this impossible? I guess if someone ends up getting this pathfinder after me they'll sure as hell be confused as to why the carrier open light shows it opening to the right, but that's not my problem. I'm hoping to buy one tomorrow, if I end up flipping it around I'll start a thread for sure. -
Rocker Panel Replacement with Rectangular Tubing
ChemExposure replied to m_lars's topic in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
Have you got around to the passenger side yet? I'm hoping to do mine in September before another winter season. -
I just did it with a screwdriver and had no issues. You'd have to make up a tool to torque it properly anyways. There's a youtube video where a guy does it.
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Thanks, these are some pretty good tips. I found to keep mine from stalling when idling I just have to pump the brake pedal. It's a pain in the ass to keep doing it but it's been getting me through the past six months. I'm definitely looking to figure out what's causing that though, pumping the brakes at drive throughs, ATM windows and long lights gets real annoying after a while.
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NAPA Generic ATF 2001 Pathfinder
ChemExposure replied to ChemExposure's topic in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
Alright well I think I'll go with it. I've got a lengthy roadtrip followed by some big city driving and I'd really like to get my shifting issues solved. Is cleaning the solenoid screens a relatively easy task? My pathfinder has issues where it'll sometimes get stuck in between gears in neutral, specifically first to second gear. It seems to go away after the first 5 minutes of driving though so that's why I'm kinda thinking it could be dirty solenoids as well as likely old transmission fluid. I've got a gasket and filter set so I'm all good to drop the pan and replace that. I've also got a new fuel filter that I will be installing this week to eliminate that as the cause. It might also be worth mentioning that I'm getting the code for a faulty knock sensor, would that affect shifting at all? -
Hey, does anyone have any experience using the Napa generic branded Mercon 3/Dexron ATF in their Pathfinder? My local store has a 20L drum for 76 Canadian bucks. Seems to be quite in my price range and I'd have enough extra to use in my dad's truck as well as a pan drop on the Pathfinder. Thanks for any advice.
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Every once in a while I can feel mine dragging, I'm ordering a brake rebuild kit soon and will put it on whenever the snow clears. On my caliper there is a bolt with a rubber boot on it that should be able to be compressed but on mine it is seized. I'd check if yours is the same. here's a link to the kit I'm ordering: http://www.partsmonkey.com/carlson-quality-brake-parts-disc-brake-hardware-kit-13328q
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primechoice imports some pretty cheap chinese hubs. Some have alright reviews.
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Hmm, well if it's the ECM that's not going to be good. Did the company who rebuilt it say anything about what they did? I'm quite good at frankensteining electronics back to life so I wouldn't mind getting a broken ECM from pick n pull and taking that apart to see what went wrong. Maybe I could end up making a DIY ECM fixing tutorial while I'm at it, who knows. Oftentimes ECM's don't really just die on their own but rather a short occurs in something stupid like a sensor harness, so just replacing an ECM without knowing why it went bad isn't really something I want to do.
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I wasn't really planning on posting about my idling issue since my vehicle has the code for a faulty knock sensor and I've already ordered it and am going to replace it soon, but I figure it might be something else causing it as well. When it idles it doesn't necessarily stick to one specific RPM, and it seems to have huge drops from 500rpm down to 100rpm randomly, sometimes even shutting the engine off. It does seem sorta like the vehicle shudders when it's at lower RPMs, but when it shuts off it's just off. No shuddering or anything. The lights in the vehicle will dim but all of the lights will turn on after like in test mode when the vehicle starts up. One interesting thing that I've noticed just now which is kinda why I'm posting this, if I pump the brake pedal while it's in park, it idles perfectly at 800-900 RPM. No jumping or nothing, so that's kinda making me think it's something other than the knock sensor. I will be putting in a new fuel filter, but the one on there isn't too old so I doubt that'd be the cause. I'm going to be researching this for a while, but if you have anything you can tell me about the issue I'd greatly appreciate it.