ChemExposure

Oh really, well that's interesting to hear that it goes all the way back to the WD21. The first time I did it I don't recall moving the vehicle, but the second time I figured I'd roll it a bit in hopes of reducing the risk of damaging components.

So has anyone tried to turn their steering wheel with the key out in neutral and found that when they went to put the key in that it just wouldn't fit? I've had this happen to me twice now and it's a real pain in the ass to deal with. I've had to roll my pathfinder backwards down a snowy hill just to try to straighten my steering wheel out enough to get the key back in. I can understand why it's there if it's a lockout feature, but I wonder if it's actually supposed to be happening the way it does to mine. Has anyone here ever experienced the same thing?

For lack of a better response, I'll post what I've read. Apparently some 15" wheels have issues where the brake caliper will rub against the inside of the wheel. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/20797-if-you-are-thinking-about-15-inch-wheels-read-this/ Give that thread a read and decide for yourself, I'd just make sure to test fit the 15" wheels really well and get in there with an inspection mirror or go under the truck and look.

Mine's done something similar to this for as long as I can remember. I figured it might be the bearings so I repacked them and it seemed to help a bit. I'm thinking at least in my case that it's just a whole bunch of failing parts compounding together to cause the wobble. Subframe rust can cause it as well, but mine doesn't seem to have any.

The question is pretty well in the title. I've got a new Bosch fuel filter so I'm figuring I might as well clean my system before putting it in. Ultimately, I'll probably end up buying whatever goes on sale but if you've specifically had good experiences with a particular one, let me know.

Mine does this, not every time but it's only when I suddenly come to a stop. Do you notice your clock dimming before it happens?

Macrow, I'd check out your clutch plates. I don't really have much experience on the topic, but from what I've heard doing an ATF flush can cause any loose clutch plate material that's suspended around the plates to flush out with the fluid resulting in poor shifting performance after. That's my main concern about doing flushes. At the same time though, it could entirely be due to the Synthetic fluid. Just as an FYI I think this thread may be targeted specifically towards R50 Pathfinders. I'm glad I saw this thread as I'm going to be doing a fuel and filter change soon. I have no idea if it is necessary but considering the 30 bucks I paid for the Filter, seal and pan gasket, I don't mind it. My 2001 Pathfinder SE is having the issue where it has troubles shifiting from 1st to 2nd and seems to hover around in neutral for a while before switching gears. Giving it more gas seems to help, especially on startup. I'm sure my neighbors hate me cause I drive down our street at a good 30+km/h or my Pathfinder just doesn't want to shift, it definitely is more prone to happening in the first five minutes of driving but it has happened on a highway turnoff once. ...Wasn't fun at all. Has switching to synthetic solved this problem for anyone here? I'm hoping it's the fluid otherwise I'm thinking it's the solenoids that need fixing.

Well, that would explain the poor response from them when I e-mailed. They couldn't even be bothered to send me a picture of the kit and just told me to look them up on the forums instead. It was from that point that I decided I'd figure out how to make the SFD on my own. Oh well.

I'm glad you figured it out. This leaves me with a question though, what preventative maintenance can we do to stop this from happening to our Pathfinders?

I've just put in the order for 4 boots. Hopefully it'll ship out tomorrow morning. Thanks for the advice, I'll probably post pictures in my build thread whenever I get around to that. We've just got a whole load of snow again so it's looking like I'll be waiting until late February to start any work.

I'll piggyback on this thread and say Autopartsway absolutely blew my mind with how fast their shipping was. I used the free economy shipping provided on orders over $100, it must've came in less than 4 days from when I put the order in. They have the best prices I've seen in Canada as well. Some of their prices on sale were cheaper in Canadian dollars than what you'd pay in American off rockauto.com, and considering the Canadian dollar's 76 cents to the American dollar that really says something.

Unfortunately the cheapest CV Joint I've found in Canada discluding remanufactures is 100 for just the shaft, unless I'm just really bad at looking. I guess if I do the boot and the CV does end up being bad it's not a whole lot to replace the CV shaft. Okay, that's really reassuring to hear. I'm definitely not known for being sheepish with the grease, the red, blue and black marks on doorframes of my house are evidence of that. Is it regular to replace the axle shaft seals at the same time as the CV? For a comparison of life, one of my inner wheel seals was bad so it had to be replaced but the other is fine. The rubber seemed okay on both of them.

That's good to hear, I always hear of people breaking their CVs so it's got me a bit cautious, but I guess that's a result of extreme offroading. My front right is just at the point where I can see small cracks on the crease. No grease has come through so I'm probably safe for now, I just hope we don't get an extended winter this year. I'm probably going to get the boots. They're EMPI brand, has anyone had experiences with their products? It doesn't list country of origin so I'm kinda weary about them. This kit comes with grease as well, but I wonder if it's actually the best grease out there for CV joints. Is there something aftermarket that's a bit better or am I just being overcautious?

Are CV Boot kits worth it? My 2001 SE 3.5 Pathfinder has 220k on it, my CV boots look like they may be cracking around the edges so I'm debating on ordering a boot kit at the same time as my u-joints so I can get free shipping, it's only going to be 40 dollars Canadian so it's no issue to me otherwise I'd be wasting 15 bucks. I have no service history of my vehicle but if I remember correctly I could see the barcode tag on it so they can't be too old. How long have CV joints lasted in your Pathfinders discluding failure due to CV Boot tears or deterioration?

Not a chance it's worth that much. My 2001 SE 3.5 was 2500 with 220K. Definitely doesn't have OME shocks though. If the passenger door was hit I'd be cautious of the structural integrity of the subframe, I'm not entirely sure how strong these are but I'm sure a small bend in the frame and some rust could get pretty bad. Pathfinders in my area are usually between 3000 and 5000, and I'm only a four hour drive away from Vancouver. On a side note: I could've sworn seeing someone saying they have 15" rims that rubbed on the side of the brake caliper. Mine came with 16 stock. Who knows.

When you said you changed your exhast out because it was too loud, was it a bad sounding loud or you just don't like loud vehicles? My pathfinder could be a bit louder, but as it is it's very raspy past 3000RPM so I'm wondering if that sound just gets amplified. Great thread by the way, kinda inspires me to be more organized and maybe get a thread of my own up here.

Thanks! That's all I needed to know, I'm glad it's not a vehicle specific incompatibility, these bluetooth scanners are cool! Do your scanners shut off automatically with the vehicle?

So I've been wanting to get a bluetooth OBDII scanner ever since I heard of them, I found one made by Panlong that has quite a few decent reviews. https://www.amazon.com/Panlong-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Scanner-Android/dp/B00PJPHEBO I was getting ready to order it, but then I noticed it says it does not work on Nissan vehicles. Is there any reason why it would say it works on almost everything but Nissan? Do Nissan's have issues with OBDII Scanners in general? I'm looking into a couple other models but for the money this one seems to be the best.

Well damn, I just came here to ask what "additives" R50 owners have succesfully used. Definitely not going to use fuel injector cleaner now.

My first vehicle was a Black 4Door '91 WD21, I got it when I was 14 from my older brother who inherited it from my aunt. Unfortunately my older brother is a moron and didn't maintain anything on the vehicle, so when I finally was 16 and able to drive it was out of my ability to fix, well considering I was 16 and more into woodwork than automotive. Somewhere along the line my parents convinced me to sell "that old rustpile" so I eventually did. Now I have a 2001 Pathfinder SE3.5. It feels like I finally had the vehicle I should've had years ago. I only paid 2500 for it as well. ...But I am also poor.

Was it consistently running at 400-450 RPM, or was it jumping back and forth? Mine has a very similar problem, but the only code that runs says it's my knock sensor that needs replacing. At the same time my issue sounds exactly like yours, and I'm wondering if I should just replace the throttle position sensor when I order the knock sensor to save on shipping.

I've yet to order from them, but check out thewrenchmonkey.ca Tdotperformance.ca seems to be cheap as well. I've also found https://www.autopartsway.ca/ I found someone as well who's selling Rancho in Canada for not too bad of a price, but I'll need to do some digging to find that link again. Otherwise, we're mostly SOL on getting any really good parts without paying 74 cents to the American dollar. EDIT: friggin eh, didn't read the OME part on your post there. I hope my links at least help some bit though.

Nice, If I ever decide to get rid of my diamond plate running board I might do this but they do make accessing the roof rack extremely easy so I'm on edge about removing them entirely. Do you figure there's a way to mount the tube rocker plates as well as a running board?

My 2001 3.5SE Pathfinder has the same issue, occasionally when I come to a stop it'll stall the engine, lights go dim and then it turns off. I've noticed it does not idle consistently either, sometimes dropping down to around 1000rpm. The scanner showed that the knock sensor needs replacing, so I will try that. I'm getting an issue with the transmission having a delayed shifting between gears, specifically between first and second. It seems to only happen on startup. If I rev it extra hard when going down my street the issue doesn't really occur, so I'm thinking my issue is more to do with the solenoids so I'll be looking into changing those. Ideally I'm hoping the knock sensor fixes the issue, but I'd honestly like to do a rebuild anyways since I'll be towing a trailer for a couple weeks in the summer.