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jjonez last won the day on March 15 2018

jjonez had the most liked content!

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About jjonez

  • Rank
    NPORA Veteran
  • Birthday 07/19/1992

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    1997 Pathfinder SE (RIP) 1987 Pathfinder SE 2002 Pathfinder SE
  • Place of Residence
    San Diego
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Screwdriver Mechanic
  • Your Age
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Weekend Warrior
  • Model
  • Year

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
  • Country
    United States

Recent Profile Visitors

1,757 profile views
  1. To add to 02_pathy, the spark plugs and seals in addition to the potentially clogged baffles in the valve covers are the reason why when I eventually do this job I plan on replacing the covers completely. Not sure what part # gets you the updated design, and not sure if it does any good either. They are expensive, I think around $200 each last I checked.
  2. And I think I can help with this. Here is a post of mine where my 2002 had the exact symptoms as you except the sunroof thing I think. My posts are kinda long and over-detailed, but it ended up being either a bad door jamb switch or the harness that it connects to on the front passenger. I just unplugged it so the computer thinks the door is always closed and it's all fine now
  3. Details on the diff drop pretty please.
  4. Also technically I think your friend is required to have the vehicle smog ready in order to sell it. Unless you guys had arranged your own agreement
  5. Great looking truck. Not nearly enough of them in the access cab/4x4 configuration. Meanwhile it seems every 1st gen Tacoma i see running around is a TRD off road access cab.
  6. jjonez


    Did... Did it take 4 years to figure that out?
  7. jjonez

    Advice on what to look prior to buy a 2001

    The manuals in the R50 are great and don't have problems if driven properly. Clutch should be ok assuming previous owners knew what they were doing with it. My 02 5 speed with 150k miles is a smooth operator and I LOVE driving it. I think the most critical rust spot to check is in the front where the strut top plate bolts to the frame/body. For the engine, biggest thing I think is the possibility of oil consumption. Unfortunately there's not much you can go on other than the owners word. It seems to be hit or miss as to which trucks have it, and there's not a definitive answer as to why it occurs. The general consensus is keep it topped up. But that's the biggest gamble in my opinion when it comes to deciding to purchase a VQ35 R50. There are engine updates between model years, hopefully someone else can give their input as to the significant ones. That one looks to be in good shape and with low miles. In my opinion if it drives good and doesn't make any weird noises then it could be a winner.
  8. So awesome you guys. One bolt on supercharger kit with a side of solid front axle plz
  9. I'd be most paranoid about how well each engine was maintained previously. If it were me I would remove things like valve/timing covers and the oil pan and just compare the two visually for oil sludge and whatnot. I've never done an engine swap though, just a disclaimer!
  10. Can the cable throttle be used on an 03 in place of drive by wire? I'm under the impression that by 03 the VQ was generally improved upon since 01. Lower miles is nice too.
  11. jjonez

    4WD High vibration

    I don't think so. The only alternate brand stuff I've seen is the bushings themselves. Febest units for $20 each.
  12. jjonez

    4WD High vibration

    When I did my rear control arms I had to pay a shop to do the pressing. Worth it for switching to poly. But it would totally eat into the savings of just swapping new rubber bushings in this case, so the whole mount is worth it.
  13. jjonez

    4WD High vibration

    Oh yea, and I did swap the front left and rear right tires just to put that to rest. It's possible it might have helped, as sometimes the vibe isn't as pronounced, but I can't say for sure since the only testing I can do is accelerate back in forth in an empty parking lot.
  14. jjonez

    4WD High vibration

    Alright, so today I jacked up the front and poked around. Fortunately the the cv axles didn't bind at full droop with both wheels in the air. However the right wheel has a couple spots of resistance when I spin it. In addition to that, spinning the wheels/axles revealed the diff mounts to be worse than I thought. Lots of side to side movement seen in the bushings on both sides when rotating the right wheel. For some reason the diff sits still when rotating the left tire and keeping the right still. My coworker spun the wheel while I filmed. Video right side Video left side The tapping/scraping noise every 2-3 seconds is a portion of the cv boot band clamp contacting the lower ball joint stud. Not an issue when laden. So here's my thinking: I only get bad vibes with hubs locked/4Hi b/c the wheels are connected to the diff AND the diff is receiving input from the motor. With hubs locked I get only mild vibes b/c the wheels are still connected to the shaking diff, but not amplified by torque. When in 4hi/hubs unlocked I don't get vibes at all because the shaking diff is isolated from the wheels/suspension. Quasar I know this didn't fully fix your issue when you had it, but I think new bushings is the best course of action for now since it's at least apparent that it needs to be done. What method did you use to remove the bushings from the mounts? I'm tempted to just by new OEM mounts to avoid hassle, based on my experience with the rear control arm bushings. My one concern with buying rubber stuff regardless if it's the whole mount or just the bushings is the age of the "new" part. What do you guys think about rubber parts sitting on a shelf for 10+ years? If it's in a sealed package should it be a concern? That being said, I wonder if Towndawg made any progress on his diff poly bushings...
  15. jjonez

    2002 Pathfinder Flashing engine light

    That was gonna be my guess. My sister's Volvo had 3 go out back to back in the space of a month. Every time it's the flashing CEL with a constant misfire. I keep a spare coil pack and a ratchet in the trunk now since I'm pretty sure mine are all original.

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