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jjonez

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jjonez last won the day on March 15 2018

jjonez had the most liked content!

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About jjonez

  • Rank
    NPORA Veteran
  • Birthday 07/19/1992

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    1997 Pathfinder SE (RIP) 1987 Pathfinder SE 2002 Pathfinder SE
  • Place of Residence
    San Diego
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Screwdriver Mechanic
  • Your Age
    22-29
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Weekend Warrior
  • Model
    SE
  • Year
    2002

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    California
  • Country
    United States

Recent Profile Visitors

1,877 profile views
  1. While this is still on the front page, any insight on regearing with a VQ manual tranny? With my 265/75/16 tires I definitely notice that I have to slip the clutch more to get going from a stop, and crawling in 4lo is a little too fast. Some extra pep in lower gears and a lower crawl ratio would be nice. Do you guys think 4.6's would be a noticeable change with a manual?
  2. See what's in there right now. My '02 manny has GL4 in the trans and had ATF in the case, so that's what I switched it with. Meanwhile my '87 had GL4 in both, so you can guess what I did there. I'm betting since yours is an auto it has ATF in the case.
  3. If you're willing to spend more time poking around, I bet you could narrow it down to the specific switch that's causing the problem. Then you could disconnect/replace/try xplors fix and not deal with the "hack" and have the security system working. It's nice being able to use the key fob as it was intended
  4. Haha oh yeah I forgot about that part. Yea that worked just fine for preventing the security system from arming. Another way to tell if it's armed is if the turn signals flash twice when you hit lock on the key fob. If they don't it's because the system thinks a door is open.
  5. I bet it's the same issue that myself and another member have had with our alarm system. It's probably a bad connection with a door jamb switch. Search my post history for an overly-detailed explanation. For me I tracked it down to the switch for the front passenger door and disconnected it. I've had zero problems since. Edit: Here is the link to my post
  6. Thanks for sharing man. How did you secure the jerry can to the tire carrier? I've been wanting to do the same thing.
  7. Wow that is a killer deal! Even the paint still looks good too.
  8. Cool you found a donor. What's wrong with it that you got it so cheap?
  9. It looks like one of the headlights is more yellow than the other. Either it was in a frontal collision and got a replacement, or he got tired after buffing the first one haha
  10. Nice, thank you! If I had know it was that easy I would have done it from the start. Looks like I could even get away with not taking the bumper cover off. Does it require an additional screw to ground the switch/hold it in place?
  11. Good stuff @RainGoat. Say would you happen to know if it's possible for me to install the carrier-open switch after the fact? When I installed my carrier I didn't try installing the switch along with it. Is it possible to drill the hole and fish out the harness (assuming it's there) without removing the angle-aluminum support that is riveted to the sheet metal?
  12. What is this, a 4runner? Oh wait, a 20 year old 200k mile 4runner would cost double that. Silly me. Haha he needs a reality check. My bumpers-included rust-free california-car '02 cost that much. Crazy how cheap these things are compared to toyotas.
  13. It seems to be working fine, havent checked up on it much. If you have the same shocks, the lower shock eyelet bushing will only fit over the stud if there is no metal sleeve inside. For the upper eyelet, the sleeve that comes with the shock is a good fit for the bolt that's already on the truck, so I didn't buy any additional sleeves.
  14. Seems 30-ish years is the lifespan of 2-door Pathfinder oil pressure senders. Not too bad. Unfortunately OEM replacements are impossible to find, and the aftermarket replacement options are inconsistent at best. When I bought my truck the pressure gauge would show zero at idle and barely register at cold start and when warm revving. Light never came on. The first replacement sender I got worked better, sort of, shooting up to 60 on cold starts but still zero at warm idle. At one point the oil light came on and stayed on, even tho the gauge still would show good pressure when driving. So after a mini heart attack, time for another sender and mechanical pressure test while I'm at it. Mechanical test showed excellent pressure from cold to hot. The new sender I put in now makes the gauge max out at 45 on cold starts, 15 at warm idle, and around 20-30 driving around. Still bugs me that it doesn't show true OP. Sometimes I play around with the idea of removing the sender and routing a mechanical pressure gauge to the dash.
  15. To add to 02_pathy, the spark plugs and seals in addition to the potentially clogged baffles in the valve covers are the reason why when I eventually do this job I plan on replacing the covers completely. Not sure what part # gets you the updated design, and not sure if it does any good either. They are expensive, I think around $200 each last I checked.

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