gillj Posted July 13, 2006 Share Posted July 13, 2006 Ive read the diff post and seen mentioned about welding the rearend how do you do this And is it as good as say posi-trac is it better or is a locker better are the main risks bad gas milage or is there more to it help me please? :help: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLApathy Posted July 14, 2006 Share Posted July 14, 2006 you should really only weld ur diff if you plan on some hardcore offroading, and not much if any street time, its basicly a spool Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Filthy Luker Posted July 14, 2006 Share Posted July 14, 2006 You need somebody with a TIG... here are some pics: in my buddy's front D44 axle (open diff).... pre-molested post-molestation my rear H233B (LSD).... pre-molested post-molestation It's perfectly fine on the street as long as you don't drive like an idiot. So coast through turns, etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jj big shoe Posted July 15, 2006 Share Posted July 15, 2006 A buddy of mine did that to his '67 Mustang. He forgot about it one day and shot the rear end out of it doing a quick u turn. I'd definately limit your on road miles if you decide to weld the rear diff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Filthy Luker Posted July 15, 2006 Share Posted July 15, 2006 A buddy of mine did that to his '67 Mustang. He forgot about it one day and shot the rear end out of it doing a quick u turn. I'd definately limit your on road miles if you decide to weld the rear diff. It's perfectly fine on the street as long as you don't drive like an idiot. So coast through turns, etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bear claw Posted July 15, 2006 Share Posted July 15, 2006 I'm thinking of welding it too, if I forget and do a quick u-ee I'll just put another rear end, lots of used spare Pathy parts out there Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gillj Posted July 17, 2006 Author Share Posted July 17, 2006 thanks guys Ill be able to decide now what to do i said in other post that i do alot of hauling with my pathy i pull a 16" trailer with about 3-7 thousand pounds on it at least 3 times a week and sometimes i use her as a wrecker recovering old cars from out in the woods without tires on them and haul them for scrap so i need to be sure puting that much weight behind my pathy is ok with a welded rearend and for those of you that wonder the pathy does see a lot of woods time Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
max_stryker Posted July 17, 2006 Share Posted July 17, 2006 woods time=good Id weld it, Im having a friend of a friend do it for me in a few weeks...should be real nice and Im super stoaked for it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gillj Posted July 17, 2006 Author Share Posted July 17, 2006 Ive got a welder and i can weld pretty good its just an arc welder hope fully it will work does anyone know will my Arc-120 get deep enough it should be able to get to about 1/4" is that deep enough? Do i just pull the cover off and weld those spiders or what just dont want to do the wrong thing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89_trailboss Posted July 18, 2006 Share Posted July 18, 2006 Ive got a welder and i can weld pretty good its just an arc welder hope fully it will work does anyone know will my Arc-120 get deep enough it should be able to get to about 1/4" is that deep enough? Do i just pull the cover off and weld those spiders or what just dont want to do the wrong thing id pre heat the crap outa it first. I think im gona weld my LSD. so just weld the spiders too each other and to the housing? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLApathy Posted July 18, 2006 Share Posted July 18, 2006 (edited) id pre heat the crap outa it first. I think im gona weld my LSD. so just weld the spiders too each other and to the housing? um not to the houseing, then you wont go no where, just weld the spiders to the side gears nvm, wrong houseing im thinking off, der, total brain fart Edited July 18, 2006 by FLApathy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted July 18, 2006 Share Posted July 18, 2006 I welded a diff with a 120 arc welder once. When the welds broke loose it made some really wonderful noises. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
max_stryker Posted July 18, 2006 Share Posted July 18, 2006 Heres what it looks like if you heat it up and weld everything not just the spiders: I recommend you weld it up with a tig and just do spider gears. LMAO@aaron's wonderful noises Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted July 20, 2006 Share Posted July 20, 2006 TIG welders are hard to find and harder to use for a novice. A nice 220 MIG setup will do great! This Isuzu diff was welded up with a stick welder, no preheating. Mwuahahaha. And here's the baggie-o-bits from the 120 welded diff. I got lucky on that one, the ring and pinion escaped damage enough to re-weld it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
513yj Posted July 20, 2006 Share Posted July 20, 2006 the best way to weld a diff will shock you. all you need is a bunch of lead wheel weights an a torch. this won't work with open cage carriers but with that hb233 pic it will. you have to remove the carrier and clean it out with brake cleaner. then put the axle shafts in or you will hate the world when they wont go later. next rotate the carrier till a hole is at the top. then grab some weights with a pair of pliers by the metal holder and melt them in as many as you can fit. you need to hold the torch close to the hole and make sure the lead flows in good. keep rotating to the next hole and the next and so on till it is chuck full of lead. this will prevent the spiders from spinning and thus creating a full locker, but the bonus is lead is softer than steel so if a piece breaks off and gets into the ring and pinion it wont hurt it as weld chunks will. i did this to my 14 bolt 8 years ago and it still works great. i've done it to a lot of other peoples and they all work great. i never had any big parts fall loose but i think if it ever did you could heat it up and refill it to make it locked again. oh yeah don't breathe in the fumes, i haven't but i could just imagine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mws Posted July 20, 2006 Share Posted July 20, 2006 If you are going to be towing that trailer on pavement or asphalt, I would advise against welding the rear diff. Especially if you need to make any kinds of tight turns. Welding the diff up eliminates the differential action - so turning corners requires the tires to scrub on the asphalt. If you have an additional few hundred pounds pressing down on the rear tires due to the tongue weight, the tires will be that much less able to turn, dramatically increasing the load on the drivetrain. You really should consider a Lock-Right, ARB, or even a factory LSD for your application. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gillj Posted July 20, 2006 Author Share Posted July 20, 2006 I do have the stock LSD in my pathy i just was wanting to put more power to both wheels when I am pulling these old heaps out of the woods to haul And i was thinking about a locker but the're pretty pricy arent they Ido put alot of wheight on my trailer and drag it through some turns i was just trying to do it the cheapest way Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dagwoodzz Posted July 20, 2006 Share Posted July 20, 2006 A buddy of mine did that to his '67 Mustang. He forgot about it one day and shot the rear end out of it doing a quick u turn. I'd definately limit your on road miles if you decide to weld the rear diff. That leaves me with two questions. actually 3 1) Sometimes we hook up with a buddy 90 miles down the road. All interstate with the exception of 5-10 miles. Would that kind of road trip be detrimental to a welded rear end? 2)Right now running an open differential, but have a spare LSD on a parts car. Which one should be the guinea pig for a welded rear end? 3)how much advantage can the LSD give the Pathy over the open D. The reason for the question is that it's been posted that LSD is useless if a tire leaves the ground. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted July 21, 2006 Share Posted July 21, 2006 It'll heat the diff up more if you go around long sweeping curves on the highway, but I think the tires will slip a skosh and keep it under the danger zone. Don't quote me on that, though. Depends on what you want to do with it. You can rebuild the LSD or use a Lock-Right in the open diff, either way. Lots of people want to swap a LSD for an open diff just so they can put in the Lock-Right. There is a definite advantage to having the LSD. The more traction, the better...even if you do manage to get one tire off in a place where you could get stuck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mws Posted July 21, 2006 Share Posted July 21, 2006 (edited) In the long run, I think the Lock-Right will be less expensive for you. They are under $300 brand new. If you end up snapping a drive axle while backing up and turning the trailer on asphalt, it will likely cost more than that to repair. I works like a welded diff when you are applying power. It locks up TIGHT and eliminates all differential action - much more so than an LSD. But, when you let off the power, the LockRight releases and lets the wheels turn at different rates so you can make turns. When I drive mine, I make it a point to plan ahead and try to "coast" when making turns in town or in parking lots. That way the LockRight can release and not chirp/squeal/prematurely wear the tires. Above 40 or 50 mph, the turns are so gradual it is not necessary. Again, nowhere near as optimal as an air locker, but soooo much cheaper! Edited July 21, 2006 by mws Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted July 21, 2006 Share Posted July 21, 2006 I've had my Lock-Right for three-four years now and haven't noticed any premature rear tire wear. I wouldn't worry about it. The fronts now, that's a different story. Damn IFS. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrailChaser Posted July 21, 2006 Share Posted July 21, 2006 If I were you... I'd definatly not weld the rear diff. Like it's been said, you'll run into problems while pulling that trailer with 500+lbs of tounge weight pressing the rear tires to the ground that much harder. I'd suggest having a GOOD welder weld the front diff and then I'd install manual locking hubs. With the front locked(welded) and the LSD in the rear you'll be unstopable. If you're wanting more traction to pull junk cars out of the dirt in the woods and already have the LSD rearend locking the rear will do absolutly nuthin to help your cause. If your truck is sitting on mostly level ground with about the same traction under both rear tires the LSD WILL act JUST like a locker. If both rear tires spin when you're pulling that max traction. However if you look up at the front I'd bet that one of the front tires is just sitting still while the other spins it's little a$$ off. If you decide to have the front diff welded the you really need to find a shop that can heat treat it after welding and weld it up while it's preheated to about 500-600degs fahrenheit. If not the weld will make the metal so brittle that it will break the spider gears and the side gears instead of the weld. The reason I suggested installing the manual locking hubs is so you can still steer your truck while the frontend is locked. You simply leave one side locked and one unlocked while driving, then when you get to a spot in the trail where you need the extra traction you can just lock the other hub and drive thru. If you do choose to have the front diff welded you should also look into upgrading the centerlink and slapping on an idler arm brace. Having the front welded will put lots of undue stress on the steering so if you don't do the upgrades you'll be bending tierods and wearing out your ball joints in the centerlink way too fast. Just to give you an idea of how well the front being welded works... I saw a buddy destroy two different locking hubs at different times while wheelin some hardcore stuff. The first was a Mile Marker premium and the second was the replacement stock autolocking hub he put back on. The point is: He destroyed the aftermarket hubs and stock hub without damaging the CV's or the welded diff. He was also running 35's when all this went down. Tig is absolutly NO better than arc or mig welding. It's just more precise. You can control the HAZ much better with tig, but if you're pumping out around 200-250amps with mig while it's preheated and then have it heat treated when you're done it'll last forever. One thing to remember, tellem to weld it with Flux not hardwire. Flux is designed to flex and give a little instead of cracking and breaking. Hardwire will flex, but it's more like a clotheshanger compared to a spring. You bend the hanger several times and it'll break, you can bend a spring all day long and just be wasting your time trying to get it to break. Good luck with your diffs, I hope this helped a little. David Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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