solid snake Posted July 2, 2006 Share Posted July 2, 2006 This is the second time that the pathy is shifting hard when it gets to about 50 or 60. When I come to a stop it downshifts at around 1000-1500 hard too. It feels like it wants to shift in gear but downshifts. it does this before I come to a complete stop. When I was getting back home I was trying to find out exactly where the problem occurs. I let go of the accelerator and once it starts falling in to that 1000-1500 it starts doing it. One other thing i noticed was when I start the pathy the power button for the tranny starts flashing about 10 to 15 times then turns off. I don't have the power set to on, it's on auto. When I drive around, the tranny feels like the power button is on when it shifts, but it doesn't feel as powerful...if that makes any sense. By the way I do have an auto tranny...I know, I know. Any help will be greatly appreciated, cause I don't have any cash right now to invest in a new tranny. I could barely pay for my a/c to get fixed on wednesday. :o Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted July 2, 2006 Share Posted July 2, 2006 Reverse still works ?? When was the last time the tranny fluid was replaced ? What does the tranny fluid look/smell like now ? After normal driving check to see how warm the lines are at the tranny cooler. How many miles on tranny ? Stock or aftermarket tranny cooler ? I seem to remember something about the light flashing, but can't recall it... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted July 2, 2006 Share Posted July 2, 2006 The power light flashing means there is an error code stored in the TCU and you have something wrong with your tranny. There's a How-To in here on how to check it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
solid snake Posted July 2, 2006 Author Share Posted July 2, 2006 (edited) Reverse still works ?? When was the last time the tranny fluid was replaced ? What does the tranny fluid look/smell like now ? After normal driving check to see how warm the lines are at the tranny cooler. How many miles on tranny ? Stock or aftermarket tranny cooler ? I seem to remember something about the light flashing, but can't recall it... B Haven't changed the fluid since i bought the pathy a year ago. Reverse works, Still have to check lines, as far as tranny cooler, i had to replace the radiator cause it crapped out on me in March, replaced it with new rad from autozone, don't know how close to stock that is, as far as clogging. The power light flashing means there is an error code stored in the TCU and you have something wrong with your tranny. There's a How-To in here on how to check it. Yeah, I found it. really great info. When I saw the TPS diagram, I remembered that on wednesday the a/c guy had to remove the intake hose and probably removed the TPS switch. I disconnected it and connected it, turned the engine on and no more flashes, just turns on then off. I think that this may have solved the problem, but that doesn't mean that I shouldn't rule out the possibility of other sensors, or tranny being f'ed up. I'm going to drive it around later on today to see how it shifts. If I remember reading a post, I think i need a total of 14 quarts of t-fluid to compeltely change the fluid in the torque conveter too right? I was planning on buying B&M tranny fluid and a quart of Lucas t-fluid for slipping. Any recommendations as far as what fluid I want to use? So I should plan on spending a total of about $120.00 inlcuding a/t filter for a DIY using the two bucket method? Thanks for the info. Edited July 2, 2006 by solid snake Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
solid snake Posted July 3, 2006 Author Share Posted July 3, 2006 Ok, drove it around and it doesn't shift hard anymore, or try to shift and undershift anymore. I'm still planning on doing the fluid as soon as I have some cash. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted July 3, 2006 Share Posted July 3, 2006 Oh, on the two-bucket method, I forgot. You can use one bucket for the output of the tranny fluid, but the new fluid has to be put back in through a funnel on the tranny fluid check stick tube. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
solid snake Posted August 9, 2006 Author Share Posted August 9, 2006 Ok, Since I finally figured out what was wrong with the hardshifting. I replaced the TPS and the flashing went away at the frist start. Then when I started the engine again, flashing started. I think it's something with the wiring, I checked the connects that goes directly to the TPS next to the TB and the other connection that leads out of the TPS and they look fine. Anywhere else I should look? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eli Posted August 9, 2006 Share Posted August 9, 2006 Haven't changed the fluid since i bought the pathy a year ago. Reverse works, Still have to check lines, as far as tranny cooler, i had to replace the radiator cause it crapped out on me in March, replaced it with new rad from autozone, don't know how close to stock that is, as far as clogging. Yeah, I found it. really great info. When I saw the TPS diagram, I remembered that on wednesday the a/c guy had to remove the intake hose and probably removed the TPS switch. I disconnected it and connected it, turned the engine on and no more flashes, just turns on then off. I think that this may have solved the problem, but that doesn't mean that I shouldn't rule out the possibility of other sensors, or tranny being f'ed up. I'm going to drive it around later on today to see how it shifts. If I remember reading a post, I think i need a total of 14 quarts of t-fluid to compeltely change the fluid in the torque conveter too right? I was planning on buying B&M tranny fluid and a quart of Lucas t-fluid for slipping. Any recommendations as far as what fluid I want to use? So I should plan on spending a total of about $120.00 inlcuding a/t filter for a DIY using the two bucket method? Thanks for the info. I recommend Redline High-Temp ATF Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
solid snake Posted August 20, 2006 Author Share Posted August 20, 2006 Ok, finally had the cash to change the atf and the a/t filter. Still having jerky shifting at 1200 rpm, not as hard before I changed the oil though. Still shifts hard. I still have the power button flashing, having a hard time determining which flasher are longer than the others. Based on the self diagnostics from the garage section, I ruled out the possiblilty of the TPS since I intalled a new one and still had the problem. So now I think it could be the shift solenoid or the speed sensor, but not sure due the flashes. I'll try to post video of the flashes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
solid snake Posted August 20, 2006 Author Share Posted August 20, 2006 Ok here's video: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eli Posted August 21, 2006 Share Posted August 21, 2006 Does it blink 18 times? If not, hmmmm. If so, this might help: http://autorepair.about.com/library/a/1d/bl714d.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
solid snake Posted August 22, 2006 Author Share Posted August 22, 2006 Nope, only 16 times, well 17 if you count the flash when you first turn on the pathy, but I don't think that counts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
solid snake Posted August 22, 2006 Author Share Posted August 22, 2006 Since the pathy no longer locks up any more, would the lock up solenoid cause both the jerky shifting at 1200 rpm as well as the hard shifting if so, then this could be the cuplrit of my problem, but since this is a stealership item only, then my next worry would be the price. :o Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eli Posted August 22, 2006 Share Posted August 22, 2006 Here's another transmission code link i found: http://autorepair.about.com/library/faqs/bl137d.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94 Pathy Posted August 24, 2006 Share Posted August 24, 2006 :help: Is this common with Pathys? I have 224,000 miles and the last couple of days once I start the buger up, put it into drive and hit the gas, it just sits there for a few seconds and finally creaps. Once I get it going, it shifts fine. I just went out a bought a tranny cooler from Advanced Auto Parts. The directions look pretty easy, but is it? It's the simple little jobs like this that I sych myself out on and would liek to have another brain here. Two heads are better than one. Who has done this and where did you place it? I'm thinking about in front of the A/C condenser. There is between that and the radiator, and between the radiator and the fan. 100%, 75%, and 60% efficiency. :idea: Does anyone have a clue on a ball park figure on what it would run to get the tranny overhauled? I know it's not cheap! :sniff: Thanks all for the great info you've given! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94 Pathy Posted August 24, 2006 Share Posted August 24, 2006 One more thing......should I flush out and drain the tranny and put new fluids in when I do this? I drained and put new in when I got the Pathy a few years ago... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
solid snake Posted August 24, 2006 Author Share Posted August 24, 2006 (edited) well the tranny cooler definetely help. There is a pinned post for changing the tranny oil. 88 put his cooler between the condenser and the radiator and according to him, works perfectly fine. As far as a flush, if you haven't changed the oil and it's been over 30k miles, then definetly do the flush. I would do the flush and see how that works first. Tranny overhauls can be very costly, may be about 2K Try checking your electrical side of the problem before going with the over haul. may be it's a loose connection or something. Edited August 24, 2006 by solid snake Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eli Posted August 25, 2006 Share Posted August 25, 2006 :help: Is this common with Pathys? I have 224,000 miles and the last couple of days once I start the buger up, put it into drive and hit the gas, it just sits there for a few seconds and finally creaps. Once I get it going, it shifts fine. I just went out a bought a tranny cooler from Advanced Auto Parts. The directions look pretty easy, but is it? It's the simple little jobs like this that I sych myself out on and would liek to have another brain here. Two heads are better than one. Who has done this and where did you place it? I'm thinking about in front of the A/C condenser. There is between that and the radiator, and between the radiator and the fan. 100%, 75%, and 60% efficiency. :idea: Does anyone have a clue on a ball park figure on what it would run to get the tranny overhauled? I know it's not cheap! :sniff: Thanks all for the great info you've given! Since the biggest overheating problem on the WD21 is the transmission, try and fit the external cooler in the front for 100% efficiency. Flush the transmission every 15,000 miles (not 30,000 as the manual recommends). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
solid snake Posted August 25, 2006 Author Share Posted August 25, 2006 Ok, tried doing the diagnositics, and do not get any judgement flickers, i used both the procedure in the link that Eli posted and the pinned topic at the garage section and no flahsing lights foir diagnostics whatsoever. should I assume that the A/T unit is crapped out? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eli Posted August 25, 2006 Share Posted August 25, 2006 Ok, tried doing the diagnositics, and do not get any judgement flickers, i used both the procedure in the link that Eli posted and the pinned topic at the garage section and no flahsing lights foir diagnostics whatsoever. should I assume that the A/T unit is crapped out? I know y'all hate the dealerships, but IMHO, you should at least drop a C note to let 'em check it out. A reman tranny's big bucks, even if you install it yourself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
solid snake Posted August 28, 2006 Author Share Posted August 28, 2006 I since I didn't see any diagnostic lights flashing I assumed that the a/t module is crapped out. I'm going to try to get one from a bone yard and see if that will fix it. if not, then I'll drop by to the stealership. Should there be any diffrence between pathy a/t module, besides manual and auto. Is there any difference, like the ecu? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted August 28, 2006 Share Posted August 28, 2006 I'm not entirely sure, but make sure you don't get one from a 4-cyl auto or a 87-88 3-speed auto. Different animals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
solid snake Posted September 24, 2006 Author Share Posted September 24, 2006 Ok, I found several pathy's at the bone yards and got $40.00 quote for the A/T Module, what do you guys think? I think it sounds like a decent price and will be getting in on Tuesday. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
solid snake Posted September 24, 2006 Author Share Posted September 24, 2006 (edited) Oh, and just as a precaution. I'm going to take the panel apart before i get to the j/y and then unplug module I have and plug in the new one. Try to do the diagnostics, if no light flashes, then I'm going to get a refund. Edited September 24, 2006 by solid snake Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
solid snake Posted September 29, 2006 Author Share Posted September 29, 2006 Ok, finally got the a/t module. Installed it, but did notice a diffrence with them. The original one has a g decal, and the one from the boneyard has a J. Didn't put much thought into it, plugged in the harnesses and went to start her up. No flickers when it started. shut the pathy off and turned on again... no flickers. Ok, decided to take her for a spin. First thing I noticed, no hard shifting, ok that's good. Second, shift points are little lower than the original, no problem here. Third, run her to 60 mph, and no hardshifting. I think that this may have solved my problem, but I want to really test it out before making a final decision about how she is doing. Going to find out tomorrow, when I take my daily 14 mile, 25 minute drive to work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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