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1987 manual transmission issue


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I'm a new owner to be.....Guidance appreciated.

 

I have read the post about gear oil volume problem. Will try to investigate that when the Pathfinder gets here.

 

I take possession of the vehicle in about a week or two when it will be brought to Dallas from Austin.

 

I am offered (free) a 1987 Pathfinder SE 2D, 4WD with the VG30i engine and 5 speed manual transmission. Over 250, 000 miles. Engine seems OK. The owner (an engineer) says it needs a transmission because it slips out of 5th gear, but not the other 4 gears, which apparently don't have the problem. What options are least expensive other than not using 5th gear? Is it an inexpensive rebuild, a part or two, a trip to the wrecking yards around Dallas, TX to search for a used one, and if so at what cost to swap out, or other suggestions appreciated. Also has a large crack in the radiator near upper hose area. JB Weld, repair shop, or replace with used or new? I have a limited budget but am tempted to spend some $$ to be able to use it to go to my work as schoolteacher (10 miles each way), half on freeway and half through town. May I presume A/C can be changed from old Freon to newer coolant inexpensively?

Thanks for considering my dilemma,

C.C.

Dallas, TX :help: :help:

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Call around local wrecking yards for an idea of the cost for a good used one in your area. Rebuilding it will cost one of two things... either the money to have a shop do it or the time for you to do it yourself. Are you capable of undertaking such a project yourself?

 

A good replacement from a wrecking yard may be your best bet, if you can afford to have someone do it or are able to swap them yourself.

 

As for the radiator one from a wrecking yard should do just fine... as long as they guarantee that it is good (not clogged and does not leak)

 

Yes AC can be retrofitted to R134a.. there is debate on what must be done however. Some say you can just get the retro kit from the parts store, some say the seals must also be changed and others will say hard parts have to be swapped out... I would recommend that you investigate that and come to your own conclusion before buying anything ;)

Edited by RedPath88
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Sounds like a good deal for free... Have you actually driven it and experienced the 5th gear slipping out issue ??

Best case is that the issue is overstated and perhaps new fluid would help. Worst case is the tranny needs a rebuild/replacement. How mechanically inclined are you or your friends ? This makes a world of difference as shop labor for this type of work can add up quick... I won't go farther without an answer.

I would accept the truck with the mind set that it may need some mechanic work. Depending on the actual issues and needs, it can be sold as a parts truck for $500+. This is a can't loose in my book.

Radiator: Used, clean one or get a new replacement... $100 for a cheap new one. Dont jb-weld, etc it'll only leave you stranded somewhere.

A/C: Sorry don't know....

 

B

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R134a (i think) to recharge your system? not sure if itll work on the 2 doors...

 

nissan manual trannys are known to go forever - those of those who have autotragics cannot comment on this... the owner of the truck currentl, is most likley not mechanically inclinded...so it could just clutch slippage instead of tranny slippage...

 

worth a look though, id say take it for a test drive - worst that can happen: will have to dry shift, tranny gets too hot and will not actually move the wd...

 

let us know how it works out and if you have any other questions.

Edited by max_stryker
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You have good answers on the trans and radiator. I support the swap in junkyard trans and buy a new radiator.

 

Regarding the AC: Those Wal-Mart conversion kits are absolute garbage and are more likely to destroy your compressor than work. Heed the lessons thousands of folks have learned... Improper conversion will more than likely destroy your compressor within a year or so.

 

The problem is the R134a itself and its incompatibility with any decent lubricating oils. R134a is an absolutely horrid refrigerant. It has less heat transfer capacity, and it will not properly "carry" lubricants. R12 systems use mineral oils, which are outstanding lubricants and the existing compressor is designed to have it present. The problem is that R134a is NOT compatible with mineral oil - it will not carry it properly, so you end up with inadequate lubrication of the compressor and it eventually dies.

 

To properly convert, you MUST do the following:

- Eliminate ALL traces of mineral oil in system.

- Refill with the crappy but the best available PAG type oil and pray it will lubricate your compressor well enough to survive. Remember, the compressor was designed to have mineral oil lubricant, not PAG, so if it dies, please don't blame it, the designer, or the manufacturer. It's kind of like using Wesson cooking oil in your engine. They may both be oils, but they are not the same!

- If seals are not the R134a compatible types, they must be replaced.

- All AC hoses must be of the nylon barrier kind. Most standard R12 hoses are semi-permeable to R134a, and some components of it will pass through the hoses. Some later R12 hoses are barrier style. If the hose says "barrier" on it, they can be used after cleaning.

- Put up with the inherant lower output. R134a just doesn't carry as much heat away as R12. The system will only be about 80% as powerful. Systems designed for R134a are designed with this in mind and have larger capacity.

 

And yes, you will have MANY people tell you otherwise, including some self proclaimed "experts". My advice is to ignore them, they are not as knowledgable as you (or they) wish. If you want to pursue, please do your OWN research. After all, you're the one who'll have to pay for a new compressor! There is a huge amount of data on the internet. Here's a place to start:

http://www.autofrost.com/

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