solid snake Posted May 6, 2006 Share Posted May 6, 2006 (edited) I'm going to receive my new headers on tuesday and I just want to share with you guys some of the problems that I may encounter, here are some pics of what is going on right now. I also have a few questions to ask. Here are the pics. Since I'm going to be working on this, I though that I might as well replace the head gasktes, but since I'm replacing the head gaskets I should go ahead and replace the valve cover gaskets and the intake manifold gasket. What other gasket do you think I should replace? Edited May 6, 2006 by solid snake Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slick Posted May 6, 2006 Share Posted May 6, 2006 well.. while yer in there unless it's new change your H2o pump, t'stat and t'belt to enusre no further tear down is required for a while. If you feel ambitious, do the cam seals too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casey.T Posted May 6, 2006 Share Posted May 6, 2006 Hit those studs with PB everyday for a bout a week before you start taking them out That back stud is the one that I am missing on my 95... No leaks or taps since I paid to have it replaced... If that bolt is from there, its not a stock item and someone has been in there before... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5523Pathfinder Posted May 6, 2006 Share Posted May 6, 2006 (edited) Why are you replacing the head gaskets? the only gaskets to replace for the exhaust would be the manifold-to-head gasket. Most guys use the facotry gasket because it is better than the paper gasket they may supply you with. Also, replace all the studs for the manifold. They use updated studs and only take a few minutes to replace if they are not broken. Edited May 6, 2006 by 5523Pathfinder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earth1 Posted May 7, 2006 Share Posted May 7, 2006 As mentioned before: DO NOT USE THORLEY GASKETS! I just put on the headers and used their gaskets for the header collector and cat flanges. One blew out right away. That's just a lot of unnecessary work to replace when you can avoid it in the first place. I was reccomended to use Fel-Pro, but couldn't find those for the lower flanges, only for header to block. If you can get something on the studs to hit with a hammer before removing that will help break up the rust. Like Casey said PB Blaster will help a lot. That little broken sheild bolt may be a bit of a pain, but just wait to see if you can jerk the shield off (broken bolt in place) when all the other bolts are off (if not you may need a bolt extractor). You'll be huckin those sheilds anyway, no need to be careful with them. No use for them with headers. Remove anything that's in your way if you can , it will save you time. You will need new studs and nuts for sure and if the budget allows new washers too. Beware that hardware ain't cheap. I spent almost $100 just on that. Check the pinned topic in the garage for updated stud part #'s. Head, valve cover, and intake gaskets are an entirely different and unrealted project, but if you have the time will and money, Why not? If youre going for one of those, then yes do all of them. As well as the stuff Slick mentioned. For the headers some helpful stuff: -various lengths of ratchet extentions are pretty necessary; up to at least a foot would be good -gear (ratcheting) wrenches are really nice -air tools if you can get ahold of would help for a couple spots -a cheater pipe to slide over your ratchet handle- cut to necessary length -a second pair of hands -can't remember nut sizes, but new Thorley's are standard as well as metric for header stud nuts -oxygen sensor if you don't know when last change was is a good idea, if budget allows- again like another $100 -RTV silicone -new studs go shorter end into the block Good luck! you've made a wise decision. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
solid snake Posted May 7, 2006 Author Share Posted May 7, 2006 If you feel ambitious, do the cam seals too. Thanks Slick, will change out also That back stud is the one that I am missing on my 95... No leaks or taps since I paid to have it replaced... If that bolt is from there, its not a stock item and someone has been in there before... That's the same thing I was thinking, the hardware does not look stock. I think the PO was in here before. i hope it's not that hard to replace, the nuts don't look like they're gonna break, but you never know. PB blaster gonna be my best freind. Why are you replacing the head gaskets? well I figuered that since I'm in here I might was well replce them. As some of you might remember from a prevoius, post I still have a temperature problem, t'stat, t'belt, hoses, radiator cap, radiator, and 16" e-fan are new and I still have a temp problem. The only thing I can think that my be wrong is the head gaskets. For the headers some helpful stuff:-various lengths of ratchet extentions are pretty necessary; up to at least a foot would be good -gear (ratcheting) wrenches are really nice -air tools if you can get ahold of would help for a couple spots -a cheater pipe to slide over your ratchet handle- cut to necessary length -a second pair of hands -can't remember nut sizes, but new Thorley's are standard as well as metric for header stud nuts -oxygen sensor if you don't know when last change was is a good idea, if budget allows- again like another $100 -RTV silicone -new studs go shorter end into the block Thanks for the advice Earth, I'll be getting ready for the header replacement. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eli Posted May 7, 2006 Share Posted May 7, 2006 As mentioned before: DO NOT USE THORLEY GASKETS! I agree. I use factory Nissan gaskets at the collector. The metal Nissan gaskets need to be port-matched with a dremel or similar tool. The Thorley collector gaskets only last a few weeks :-( Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nutz Posted May 8, 2006 Share Posted May 8, 2006 I've had no problems at all with the thorley gaskets. They fit perfectly and sealed tight as a drum. Any gasket will burn out if you don't bolt the flanges together squarely and allow the exhaust to blow past the gasket, so make the sure the fit is perfect before you crank the flanges down. Whatever gaskets you use, just make sure you use some copper/silicone (O2 safe) gasket sealer. Definately replace your studs now and use new nuts, you don't want to be in there again! The studs are about $4 each, but well worth the piece of mind. The last thing you want is to be tightening your header down and snapping a stud inside the head. Most of the tightenting will be with a 12 mm wrench so make sure you have a good one. You can reach some of the studs with a socket and long extension, through the side of the fenders (after you remove the front wheels), once you unclip and pull back the plastic shields inside the fender. Retighten the headers after a couple of days of driving, the studs streatch a bit from the heat. Not sure why you would want to replace the head gaskets, unless you have a leak. Thats a big job and totaly unnecessary to install the headers. Good luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
solid snake Posted May 8, 2006 Author Share Posted May 8, 2006 Thanks Nutz. Are the studs you are quoting me from the stealership? if not from what auto store. i checked with checkers and they don't have any studs, they only have them for chevy v8's. As far as the head gaskets, I'm really starting to reconsider replacing them. I know it is not header related, I just thought of replacing them since I haven't found what my temperature problem is yet. Here's he post I was reffering to: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=8449 No leak from heads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slick Posted May 8, 2006 Share Posted May 8, 2006 (edited) If it was me (been there... didn't do that the first time) I would change the head gasket if you're having an unidentified temp issue and have changed/inspected all the other probable causes.... i didn't do mine and lookie what happened to me... not saying that's your case.. i have just learned to throw caution to the wind now. as for the studs.. you should get the 300z non turbo studs but if you don't want to spend that much... i just got the pathy studs at the stealership.. with washers.. here are the part numbers: 14037-V5005 Lock Washer for manifold studs 1.88ea 14039-W1500 Nuts for manifold studs .65ea 14065-V5004 Manifold Studs 3.21ea i haven't had any issues with the stock studs since i changed them. have you checked that feisty little upper bypass hose as the possible cause of your problem yet?? how's the pathy runnin? have you done a compresion test? Edited May 8, 2006 by Slick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nutz Posted May 8, 2006 Share Posted May 8, 2006 yeah, you'll have to get the studs and nuts from the dealer. The jobbers won't have 8mm metric studs. , unless you go to a specialty fastener shop but you won't save any money there. Just get the newer version OE from the dealer. As for the head gasket job, I read all of your posts and it seems that the issue now is not that the truck is running too hot, but that you are concerned why the temp is still staying at almost half way on the gauge, even when its cool at night, right? If this is the case, I don't think you have a blown head gasket. Its normal. Chances are this is due to your new thermostat. Keep in mind that your thermostat, when working properly, is supposed to close below 170, to let the heat build back up. If your truck was running condiderably cooler before, its likely that your old thermostat was either stuck open, or opening too soon. Either way, I would install an OE thermostat and keep an eye on the temp gauge. As long as its not running too hot, you're good. BTW, I just bought a new thermostat b/c mine is stuck open and the temp never goes past 1/3 unless I'm climbing for a long time under heavy load with the AC on. too cool is not good either. If the engine runs too cool, the carbon and crud doesn't get a chance to burn off, and ECU may bypass the O2 sensor as it does during "warm up". If you still suspect the head gaskets, some things to look for are: 1) are you losing coolant, but can't find a leak? 2) any white smoke from the tail pipe even after the engine is warmed up? 3) do you have any white foamy crap in the oil when you pull the dipstick or check under the oil filler cap? If not, I wouldn't worry the head gaskets for now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedPath88 Posted May 8, 2006 Share Posted May 8, 2006 yeah, you'll have to get the studs and nuts from the dealer. The jobbers won't have 8mm metric studs. , unless you go to a specialty fastener shop but you won't save any money there. Actually NAPA can get them without trouble. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
solid snake Posted May 9, 2006 Author Share Posted May 9, 2006 have you checked that feisty little upper bypass hose as the possible cause of your problem yet??how's the pathy runnin? have you done a compresion test? The bypass hose is fine, no leak, and haven't done a compresion test, I reburpped the system and had the heater running full blast, it seemed to help out, I haven't really tested it out running idle for a while. If you still suspect the head gaskets, some things to look for are: 1) are you losing coolant, but can't find a leak? 2) any white smoke from the tail pipe even after the engine is warmed up? 3) do you have any white foamy crap in the oil when you pull the dipstick or check under the oil filler cap? If not, I wouldn't worry the head gaskets for now. No loosing coolant, no white smoke, or foamy oil either. Actually NAPA can get them without trouble. I'll check with the local NAPA store for hardware. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nutz Posted May 24, 2006 Share Posted May 24, 2006 how did the header install work out? are you happy with the results? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
solid snake Posted June 2, 2006 Author Share Posted June 2, 2006 Sorry to leave all you guys hanging about the install. I've been really busy at home and work. Well here are some pics that i took during the install. All old manifold and y pipes removed from engine. Let me tell you, it was a B**** to remove it! This nut gave me hell to remove. It was on a nut that it was on the collector from the y pipe to the muffler. It was siezed, tried spraying wd-40 the hell out of it and it didn't work. My brother helped me out in removing it with tools. Sent it to a local shop to extend the egr valve tube to the header. Over all I am very pleased with the out come of of the headers. After 14 hours of labor , and feeling sore all over my body. It was well worth it. The throttle response is waaay better, acceleration is quicker, and the tone is deep and aggressive. I would really recommend this upgrade to any pathy owner. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slick Posted June 2, 2006 Share Posted June 2, 2006 -bounce- welcome tot he happy thorley owners club!! -bounce- glad everything went good, the sore ness, swearing and labor is worth the end results though. :cool2: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteeevO Posted June 2, 2006 Share Posted June 2, 2006 yeah i remember doing that job.. ha the studs are fun... glad ur happy w/ them ...as most of us are.. if not all of us... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nutz Posted June 2, 2006 Share Posted June 2, 2006 cool, glad it worked out well. nice job Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
solid snake Posted June 4, 2006 Author Share Posted June 4, 2006 Thanks, glad to be part of the club. I really like the mod, now I have to re-tighten some bolts, especially at the collecter flanges. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedPath88 Posted June 4, 2006 Share Posted June 4, 2006 Congrats on the install Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted June 4, 2006 Share Posted June 4, 2006 Cool Snake. I glad you like them and thanks for the follow up ! tried spraying wd-40 the hell out of it *sigh* Why do people not listen and use something like PB Blaster (a penetrant) rather than wd-40 (a light lubricator and water displacer). It really makes a world of difference... On that note, the mold maker at work swears by some specific stuff. I can't remember the name, but I'll find out and post it tomorrow B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
solid snake Posted June 5, 2006 Author Share Posted June 5, 2006 I couldn't get it, and by the time I was to said nut, it was freaking 11:00 pm. I didn't finish until close to 2 am. That was the only nut that gave me problems. everything else came off pretty easily. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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