nige Posted April 12, 2006 Share Posted April 12, 2006 i just replaced the front pads, and while i was using a clamp to push the pistons in so the caliper will fit over the new pads, i noticed i needed to use quite a bit more force to get one of them to retract into the pots. The insides of the pistons are rusty and the rubber seal around the sticky one has chipped away on one side. I have a feeling this sticky piston is causing my new pads to drag on the rotor, rather than retract like they're supposed to. The truck pulls noticeably to the left, unless you apply pedal pressure, then it straightens out and pulls a little to the right. I know i'm most likely going to need to rebuild the unit, and i was wondering if the job is within the realm of a novice mechanic. I've honed cylinders in small engines before, so i'd know what i'm doing. I'd just like to know if it's worth the trouble and time, finding tools etc. to do the job on my own, or simply pay someone to do it for me provided it's not too spendy a job. Is it necessary to do both calipers on each "axle" similar to changing pads, or can you fix just one of them? I'd like to save as much money as possible... home ownership isn't cheap Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted April 12, 2006 Share Posted April 12, 2006 I think you can get a rebuild kit with new seals, etc for that. People do it all the time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mws Posted April 13, 2006 Share Posted April 13, 2006 I've done quite a few over the years. All but one came out perfectly. A key is condition - I've found that if there is ANY pitting on the sides of the piston or bore, it can be a pretty futile fight to get them working perfectly and not leak. You can hone REAL small pits out of the cylinder, but pitting on pistons? Just replace. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94extreme Posted April 13, 2006 Share Posted April 13, 2006 yeah, you can do it. it's no big whoop unless the ^^^. new set(2) is somewhere over a hundred. i'd do both sides. it sounds to me like you may also have air in the lines or something since it switches to which side pulls. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nige Posted April 14, 2006 Author Share Posted April 14, 2006 I checked at partsource here in canada and they want $120 for both corners including the exchange for the old calipers. I think i might just do this instead of fussing around with the old ones. I don't have time for that. Thanks for your input tho guys. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NismoSkyZ Posted April 18, 2006 Share Posted April 18, 2006 If it were me I would just try the junkyard, you could get both for around 75 there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nige Posted April 18, 2006 Author Share Posted April 18, 2006 (edited) normally i would check the wreckers first, but it's incredibly rare to find a pathy with good parts left on it here. the same thing happened when i needed parts for my miata :sniff: Edited April 18, 2006 by skrillaguerilla Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94extreme Posted April 18, 2006 Share Posted April 18, 2006 If it were me I would just try the junkyard, you could get both for around 75 there. don't even consider this unless you don't care about your life man. brakes are one of the most important systems on any vehicle, don't take chances with it. it's not worth the small savings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nige Posted April 18, 2006 Author Share Posted April 18, 2006 but i'm trying to save money for my LED washer nozzles! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nige Posted April 20, 2006 Author Share Posted April 20, 2006 I'm refilling the brake lines with no vacuum pump right now (my brother pushes the pedal while I loosen/tighten the air bleed and watch for bubbles). Does it work better if the truck is running or shut off? I can't seem to get all the air from the right front right now. it either has bubbles in the hose, or nothing comes through.... I checked for leaks on the line going into the calipers but they're nice n tight. The reservior is always full too. I had no trouble doing the rear axle, and the left front caliper had no trouble getting the air out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94extreme Posted April 20, 2006 Share Posted April 20, 2006 did you get new hoses? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nige Posted April 20, 2006 Author Share Posted April 20, 2006 you mean brake lines? No. they weren't cracked/worn/leaking. All i thought it would be was one of those copper washers you have to torque down to seal the line to the caliper, but no fluid comes out of them when my brother pushed on the brake with the air bleed valve closed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94extreme Posted April 21, 2006 Share Posted April 21, 2006 you need new hoses. they go bad on the inside and you'd never know. get both sides also. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted April 21, 2006 Share Posted April 21, 2006 He's gonna be pissed if he buys new hoses and it doesn't fix the problem... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derrik Posted April 21, 2006 Share Posted April 21, 2006 I like to stop. new ones, with warranty. rebuild the originals - assuming they say "nissan" on em. stor-em somewhere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94extreme Posted April 21, 2006 Share Posted April 21, 2006 He's gonna be pissed if he buys new hoses and it doesn't fix the problem... well, i hope that fixes his prob . sounds to me like at least one hose is done for. regardless, it's an item one should do along with calipers. everytime i had to put on new calipers (and this is numerous times on all my different vehicles) i have always put on new hoses and found that every single time the hoses were gone. they are relatively cheap.. think SAFETY! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nige Posted April 22, 2006 Author Share Posted April 22, 2006 well i learned i was bleeding the system in the wrong order, and i forgot to do the rear ABS actuator as well. I know I don't have a load sensing valve, so there's no need to check that. anyways, I re did the procedure, unhooking the negative battery terminal, turning the key to off and starting with left rear, right rear, left front, right front, then the abs actuator. Nothing but new fluid came out of the air bleed valves on each pass. The pedal still goes to the floor :furious: .What i noticed during testing was the pedal would go right to the floor on the first stroke, stopping the truck slowly. If you pushed the pedal down repeatedly, it would 'tighten' up and stop the truck faster, but as soon as you don't push it for a couple of seconds, it 'loosens' up again, requiring more time to stop the truck. I have no leaks at any of the points where the line enters the caliper, the lines themselves are in good condition with no nicks or cuts/abrasions. I'm also getting no ABS warning light either so i'm assuming the system works OK. Do you guys know if i'm missing anything else? or is there a malfunction in the master cylinder or booster? I inspected the vacuum line between the engine and the booster and it's in good condition. I've tightend up my parking brake cable in anticipation of slowly rolling down to my mechanic, but i'd rather avoid doing that if possible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94extreme Posted April 23, 2006 Share Posted April 23, 2006 the lines themselves are in good condition with no nicks or cuts/abrasions. you can't tell if the lines are any good from the outside unless super obvious outside damage. if there is no fluid coming out of one of them i bet it's a gonner. the next thing, if everything is aok would be the master cylinder. do you hear any gurgling coming from there? or a leak on the booster? they may not be there for the MC to be shot. the only way i was able to tell, besides the pedal going to the floor, was when i took it off and manually pushed on the plunger. it went in way easy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derrik Posted April 24, 2006 Share Posted April 24, 2006 You are gonna have to disconnect the brake-hose from the right caliper (the one that is having trouble passing fluid) and see if fluid comes through when the brake pedal gets pressed (basically, you are bleeding the system to the right caliper, so follow the usual brake bleeding procedure, except, you will just leave the hose end submerged in a jar with brake fluid). If fluid is passing through, then it may be that there is an obstruction in the new caliper. This is one option, there may be other things you can try that would be more or less effective. Good Luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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