MaritimeMan Posted February 25, 2006 Share Posted February 25, 2006 Ok so I solved my high idle problem, it's a timing issue. Now idle is down to 800 rpm but it backfires and has no torque when driving. Has any one here set the base timing on a Pathy before? By base timing, I mean shorting out the computer and making the engine run on it's own without input from the advance. This prevents the comp from advancing or retarding the timing so you can get close to as good as it gets. I am really frustrated at this point, and am about ready for the c4 fix. Perfectly safe till you add an electrical charge. Go Boom. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94extreme Posted February 25, 2006 Share Posted February 25, 2006 let me check my book really quick but you could start by getting TDC and set it from there.. is this an electronic advance or vac driven one? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94extreme Posted February 25, 2006 Share Posted February 25, 2006 ok, i am too buzzed and tired to deal with this right now. tomorrow (later today) or others will chime in.. i just wrote on adjusting timing by ear in the last week. search my posts if you haven't seen it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casey.T Posted February 25, 2006 Share Posted February 25, 2006 It was in my thread on the No Heater.... MM Im also having some challenges with torque since replacing the timing belt on my 95.... I have an appointment this after noon with a timing light... I will then make adjustments based on test drive... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted February 26, 2006 Share Posted February 26, 2006 Hm, I'm not sure you can remove the ECU from timing changes without it being a dog on the road. At idle, it should run at base timing by itself. You have a FSM, is it not with you right now? Let me know and I can drop you a link for the '94 FSM if that'd help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted February 26, 2006 Share Posted February 26, 2006 Yep....just make sure it's warmed up to proper operating temp before you check the timing. I did my timing cold once, and it ran like a$$....then rechecked with it warm the next day, and the timing was way off. Once I set it correctly while warm, it's run great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94extreme Posted February 26, 2006 Share Posted February 26, 2006 Hm, I'm not sure you can remove the ECU from timing changes without it being a dog on the road. At idle, it should run at base timing by itself. You have a FSM, is it not with you right now? Let me know and I can drop you a link for the '94 FSM if that'd help. i sure couldn't find any timing info in that thing. where is it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted February 26, 2006 Share Posted February 26, 2006 Under EC, Engine Fuel and Emission Control system section. Page 25. Base timing is 15 degrees BTDC. ALL timing is controlled by the ECU at idle and under load or at high revs. They list a complicated-ass procedure for checking timing/fuel/emissions that includes reading CO2 levels, etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaritimeMan Posted February 26, 2006 Author Share Posted February 26, 2006 Well I figured it out, seting base timing is just going to 15 BDC. I know on some older rigs like by buddy's 87 Blazer, there was a wire off the ECU that had to be grounded in order to properly set the base. Otherwise, the computer was always compensating and wouldn't be properly set. I talked to a Nissan tech, and he said this wasn't the case. This condition is common on older rigs, but not on Pathfinders, so no worries there. Thanks for all the input guys. Hopefully soon I'll get it all figured out. Yesterday I found my intake leak and replaced the manifold gaskets to the heads, as well as the fuel rail O rings. Unfortunately, one of the bolts for the intake manifold stripped out, so now I have to tap it and get a bigger bolt. They are 8M so it looks like I can bump up to a 10M no problem. Grrrr. Once again, thanks for the input. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slick Posted February 26, 2006 Share Posted February 26, 2006 glad you got the one problem fixed MM... one thing after another huh? welcome to my world..lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted February 27, 2006 Share Posted February 27, 2006 3/8" is the next nearest SAE bolt size, about 9.5mm. Just so you know. A SAE tap and bolt are prolly easier to find is all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaritimeMan Posted February 27, 2006 Author Share Posted February 27, 2006 Nah, I have a full tap and die set for metric. It one of the real nice ones with all three taps for each size. (Tapered, medium, and blind). The fun part is going to be getting it in there straight due to the slant of the surface in repect to the orientaion of the hole. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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