KILLVOX Posted February 23, 2006 Share Posted February 23, 2006 Any body got info on replacing tie rods on a 95. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted February 23, 2006 Share Posted February 23, 2006 (edited) Are you doing just the ends? Or the complete assemblys? If you're doing the complete assembly's it's easy. Get a pickle fork (tie rod removal tool) and undo the bolts, then use the tool to remove the tie rod ends from the CL, and Knuckle.....Simple. Be sure to get an alignment afterwards, as the chances of you adjusting the tie rods exactly right are slim to none. The part that sometimes gets difficult is when you're trying to get the tie rod ends out of the adjuster. Sometimes they seize in there pretty tight, and can be a real PITA to get loose. Edited February 23, 2006 by Simon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k9sar Posted February 23, 2006 Share Posted February 23, 2006 I'm gonna disagree with Simon a bit. I have replaced several and the use of a pickle fork can damage the grease boot fairly easily. I have found that the easiest way is to pull the cotter pin and loosen the nut up to the top of the bolt. Then use a hammer and smack the top of the bolt a few times really hard. Don't worry about the threads, you can dress them by simply removing the nut. Also, if you put the nut flush with the top of the bolt, you have a better striking surface. Once it's off, take a measurement from the adjustment sleeve (not the lock nut cause that'll probably be replaced) to the ball-end of the joint. Use a little geometry to determine a point to measure to as there is not a good 90 degree angle between the adjustment bolt and the mount bolt. Loosen the adjustment nut and spin out the tie-rod end. You can then place the lock bolt back into the exact position where it was (should be obvious on the threads of the old TR-end) and match it up to your new one (measure from ball-joint end cause the adjustment bolt may be a different length). Mark the new threads with a marker or piece of tape so that when you spin in into the adjustment sleeve, you can get it the exact location the old one was. Once in place, spin down the lock nut and tighten her up. Reinstall into the c-link or wherever it came from. Double check your measurement from before. Even if you are a thread off or so, your alignment should be fine enough so that you need not rush out for an alignment if you don't want to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Filthy Luker Posted February 23, 2006 Share Posted February 23, 2006 Make sure you loosen the jam nuts and the adjusters while the tie-rods are still on the vehicle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k9sar Posted February 23, 2006 Share Posted February 23, 2006 I also know a mechanic who swears by the process of putting a sledge behind the c-link and smacking the front of it really hard. He claims that this momentarily distorts the opening enough that it 'squirts out' the tapered tie-rod end and you don't need a puller or pickle fork. personally, beating the hell out of the c-link is less desireable than beating the tie-rod end (which you are replaceing anyway) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sw Posted February 23, 2006 Share Posted February 23, 2006 just some interesting thoughts. in the past i have tried the puller/fork thingos and as stated above damaged stuff. i have also done what k9sar recomended withe putting the cage nut to the top and hitting the tread. damaged stuff also. however heres a trick i learnt from a friend thats a mechanic who came over to help me with a stuck tie rod end, and i mean seriously stuck. instead of hitting the top of the tread/cage nut. once the cage nut is loose hit the side of what the tie rod end is bolting into. in our case it would be the cl or the hub. a few quick hard hits on the side of the cl or hub right in line with where the tie rod end bolts through and the sharp vibrations cause the tappered-ness of the bolt of the tierod end to come loose. after seeing this method i now swear by it. and its now the first method i use. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k9sar Posted February 23, 2006 Share Posted February 23, 2006 (edited) bottom line... beat it until it comes loose. Edited February 23, 2006 by k9sar Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tinker Posted February 24, 2006 Share Posted February 24, 2006 Wow! No one wanted to drop 15 bucks for a ball joint puller? I found it made the job a breeze - looks like a cross between a c clamp and a pickle fork. Apply pressure to the stud portion using the bolt, the fork part grabs the C frame under the ball. A very moderate tap on the side of the C frame where the stud goes through and out she pops! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted February 24, 2006 Share Posted February 24, 2006 Yeah, getcha one of these: Or one of these: They work great. Tighten that puppy down then tap on the end of the tie rod or the CL. BANG and out it comes. I've used mine on dozens of tie rod ends both at home and in the junkyard. Works every time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earth1 Posted February 25, 2006 Share Posted February 25, 2006 I have a puller too and it works great for the idler and pitman arms as well. If you are going to be going off road much, I HIGHLY reccomend getting one of those 3yr or lifetime alignment deals fom a shop. You can go get an alignment as often as you want. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KILLVOX Posted February 25, 2006 Author Share Posted February 25, 2006 Thanks for all the info guys. Im set. :cool2: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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