Jump to content

Clutch Help


Z_Pilot
 Share

Recommended Posts

My throw-out bearing is telling me that it is ready to go. I am now shopping for clutches. I am currently only street-driving my pathy, however, things may change in the future. I may drive her in the sand if I move to Hawaii, or if I move back out west, I may be driving on snowpack often with a snowmobile trailer. I am also considering L&P's supercharger if it becomes a reality.

...So, do I need a super-duper clutch or will OEM be fine...with the extra power I might have with the supercharger?

 

Options>>

 

From AC:

 

Centerforce I

Centerforce II

Centerforce Dual Friction

 

or:

 

Exedy Clutch Kit on eBay

note: this exedy kit includes the t\o bearing and pilot bearing

 

or:

would a Z31 (300zx) clutch fit?

 

 

Is the dual-friction clutch really 3 time better (and more $) than a regular clutch?

What is the tranny fluid grade? 5 quarts, right?

 

Thanks for your opinions....

 

Z

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just put in an OE clutch... They last 100k with some abuse, I don't see needing anything more... If you have 50 more HP, tow large trailers and ride the clutch, aftermarket performance may help... :shrug:

 

Yes, 5 qts of GL-4 ONLY !!! 75w-90 or comprable synthetic...

 

B

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm not sure a Centerforce DF would be good for off roading or, as in my case towing. The other Centerforces or Excedy should work well. Which, depends on how much you want to spend. I suggest getting a complete kit as well as have the flywheel turned. I don't believe one for the 300zx will fit (different flywheel from what I've found) and even if it did, it's designed for a vehicle half as heavy.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

GL-4 only!!!!

All the same, right?

 

 

 

Improve the efficiency of your transmission or transaxle.

Red Line Oil's MT-90 transmission gear oil is designed to provide excellent protection and improved shiftability for manual transmissions and transaxles. Popular in Nissan, Toyota, and Mazda manual transmissions and transaxles, as well as other selected applications, this is a 75W90 GL-4 gear oil that's slightly heavier than MTL. It provides excellent protection of gears and synchronizers, and its balanced slipperiness provides a perfect coefficient of friction, allowing easier shifting.

 

 

Z

Edited by Z_Pilot
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I got a question for all you guys. I know that the Centerforce dual friction clutch is for modified engines. Since I have the Jim Wolf cams, headers, exhaust and Pop Charger, do you think it would be better if I got the dual friction clutch rather than a stock? In the future I am going to replace both cats with high-flow cats, get 33's, 3-inch body lift and probably a new ECU.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

All the same, right?

 

Z

seems to be.. as long as it's not gl-5 or somthing else that says it's better then gl-4.. it is not for our trucks, actually detrimental to the tranny. i think there are a few here that have that in their trannys. good stuff from what they say.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I got a question for all you guys. I know that the Centerforce dual friction clutch is for modified engines. Since I have the Jim Wolf cams, headers, exhaust and Pop Charger, do you think it would be better if I got the dual friction clutch rather than a stock? In the future I am going to replace both cats with high-flow cats, get 33's, 3-inch body lift and probably a new ECU.

That's basically what I was wondering too... I am now quite where you are yet, but hope to see some big H #'s if\when the L&P Supercharger comes out.

 

Z

 

 

 

BTW- Do you mind if I ask how much the Labor $$ was to install the cams?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I can't answer that. I had to get a whole new engine so the install was included.

:blink: at least he's honest. lol

 

as for the clutch.. when do you plan on installing the sc? OEM equipment can take a beating... i was going to get the CF II until it realized it would cost me $437 and OEM was $178... and it has been great. I do a lot of shifting of gears and i also use it for off road and have never had a problem with it. :aok:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

All right back to the synthetic oil question seems to be my favorite topic lately.

 

I had my pappy in Austin look around for some synthetic to see if was cheaper than the $20 qrt stuff where I live.

He said the few parts people that he has spoke to say that GL4 is not synthetic (we all know this), but they are telling him that synthetics are not labeled as GL4-Gl5 but by weight. Any thoughts on this?

 

I posted a little bit ago a comment from another site on the topic of mineral versus synthetic.

One guy commented that because manual trannies sling fluid and not pump fluids that synthetic are not recommended and that only pumped method of fluid dispersion should use synthetic.

 

Any one familar with and/or support this theory?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't know much about the Centerforce clutches in a Pathfinder, but a guy I know who works on just Hondas said not to get one (my friend asked about it for his CRX). I don't know if that meant OE is better or Centerforce is too expensive or what. He had other companys he recommended I don't think Exedy was one but that's the only other aftermarket option we have.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have a friend who drifts with his 240 and used to have a RX7. He said that centerforce clutches are complete crap. Looks like I'll be going with OE for now. I have the shop looking into whether I just need my clutch adjusted or if I need a new one.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

All right back to the synthetic oil question seems to be my favorite topic lately.

 

I had my pappy in Austin look around for some synthetic to see if was cheaper than the $20 qrt stuff where I live.

He said the few parts people that he has spoke to say that GL4 is not synthetic (we all know this), but they are telling him that synthetics are not labeled as GL4-Gl5 but by weight. Any thoughts on this?

 

I posted a little bit ago a comment from another site on the topic of mineral versus synthetic.

One guy commented that because manual trannies sling fluid and not pump fluids that synthetic are not recommended and that only pumped method of fluid dispersion should use synthetic.

 

Any one familar with and/or support this theory?

First of all, synthetics do come in GL-4. There's a Pennzoil synthetic GL-4 that I've used.

 

Secondly, I don't believe that synthetics aren't good for manual trannies. Lots of people run Redline synthetic in their Pathy's and have had very good results. :shrug:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm not sure what I was eluding to when I posted the comment "GL4 is not synthetic (we all know this)", except for I know GL4 comes in both Mineral and synthetic but the parts guys were dismissing it for some reason.

Where I'm at we have GL4 75 -90 @ $20qrt so I know it's available I'm just to much of a tightwad to buy it.

I have heard a bunch about Redline and Amosle (I Know I did not spell that right, bare with me) and the price on the WEB look good.

Other fluid questions to those that know.

On high mileage engines (240,000) what's the better oil to use, a thinner oil such as 50w or a 30w?

I can get synthetic 10-30 and 10-40 at about 20 bucks for 5 qrt. but because of availability and retailer the synthetic in the 50 weight are a little higher.

While I'm at it what spark plugs do you fellows recommend?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I got a question for all you guys. I know that the Centerforce dual friction clutch is for modified engines. Since I have the Jim Wolf cams, headers, exhaust and Pop Charger, do you think it would be better if I got the dual friction clutch rather than a stock? In the future I am going to replace both cats with high-flow cats, get 33's, 3-inch body lift and probably a new ECU.

Only if you plan on doing some severe-duty offroading in 4LO...

 

Wait till those 33's suck the power and mileage out of your Pathy, you'll need even more mods. ;)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

the VG30 uses a 250mm clutch disc, just like the 300ZX twin-turbo, that should broaden your options for you. I lucked out and got the last NISMO clutch disc for a Pathfinder and will be using a NISMO Coppermix solid hub clutch disc. It is a non-asbestos organic material mixed with copper , when cold the NAO mix does the clamping for you, as it heats up the copper takes over, the hotter it gets the more it grips. Spoke to my contact at NISMO and explained to him about working the clutch hard when wheeling. He said this is the way to go.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

the VG30 uses a 250mm clutch disc, just like the 300ZX twin-turbo, that should broaden your options for you. I lucked out and got the last NISMO clutch disc for a Pathfinder and will be using a NISMO Coppermix solid hub clutch disc. It is a non-asbestos organic material mixed with copper , when cold the NAO mix does the clamping for you, as it heats up the copper takes over, the hotter it gets the more it grips. Spoke to my contact at NISMO and explained to him about working the clutch hard when wheeling. He said this is the way to go.

Good tip...how can I copy-cat you?

(where can I get those parts?)

 

Z

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...