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D-ring Shackles?


TrailChaser
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It is hard to get testing certificates on rigging equipment from McMaster-Carr, so I would advise you against using them. search around for crane and hoist rigging equipment, you tend to get higher quality stuff from them than some auto/hardware stores

 

Also- the bow shackles are inherently stronger than the D-shackles, and functionally equal.

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I had one that I ripped the threaded shackle pin out of. not good when you have a full load on it. Perhaps it was defective but I got it at a 4x4 auto parts store. Got a couple replacements from a buddy of mine who operates cranes at construction sites and have had no issues since.

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I found some at a military surplus store.... Great big honkers, originally used on a C5 for securing cargo. No published ratings on them, but considering they use 3/4 (or 7/8"?) grade 8 bolts, they are well over 10K pounds. Using a bolt and nut instead of threaded body is a little inconvenient, but I think I paid about $5 each.

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You would be suprised at the reduction in the ultimate failure load for counterfit hardware vs. the brand-name manufacturers. And counterfit hardware can be sneaky. They often have few or no distinguishing features, and you don't know it is bad until the pin has already failed, and the rest of the shackle is flying through your windshield. reason enough for me to spend a few extra dollars and minutes.

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I like to hit up farming supply stores for those. I also did away with the threaded pins in the D-Ring shackles. Seriously there is nothing more annoying than a 3 in the morning muddy fight with one of those goddamn things to get yourself hooked and yanked out of a jam in a rush when water is rushing into your truck.

 

Get yourself some high strength hitch pins with chain (something like this: http://www.wilsonmfgco.com/hitchpins/images/LL1189.jpg ) which also can be bougth at farming supply stores... Makes using the shackle a snap.

 

I realise that it may seem unsafe to theoretically make the shackle less strong by not using the threaded pin, but in all honesty the weakest component will be something else in the system. By the time the shackle will bend apart, the recovery point at the frame will fly off first or the line will snap. Besides the load on the shackles is directed in such way that it wouldn't matter.

Edited by Filthy Luker
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amen on trying to screw in a muddy shackle pin. If I used a straignt pin like that, I'd probably drill a hole in the end to drop a cotter pin or something so it didn't slip out before having the full load on it.

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just picked up a pair of 3/4 screw-pin shackles from my local industrial supply place (I have a business to business account so discounts and no tax). Got these for $14 each

 

Working Load Limit (Lb.) 9500

Body Size (In.) 3/4

Pin or Bolt Dia. (In.) 7/8

Inside Width at Eyes 1 1/4

post-1-1136818328.jpg

Edited by k9sar
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Looks good K9...

 

My main point is to make sure you know what you are buying; the dealer should disclose the working load limits for them. I have visited a number of places who were selling shackes without any testing documentation.

 

I like the hitch pin-cottered idea good thing to add to the kit. You should still keep the threaded pin around though, because using it makes it much easier to determine whether the bow has been deformed/damaged during use. and if you store them with your straps instead of on your bumper, you can keep them out of the mud.

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