Simon Posted December 1, 2005 Share Posted December 1, 2005 Looking for assistance as stated above. One of my front studs broke at about the halfway point of it's length. The remaining stud is not long enough to get a lug on, so must be replaced. I haven't looked into it yet, but was wondering if anyone here has done it, and if so, what does it entail? Thanks for any and all input. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94extreme Posted December 1, 2005 Share Posted December 1, 2005 (edited) i think there was a thread a while back with a very similar title. i could be wrong though.. to many forums.. Edited December 1, 2005 by mzxtreme Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted December 1, 2005 Author Share Posted December 1, 2005 Yeah, I searched. It found 34567 thread on manifold studs, but I didn't find any on wheel studs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted December 1, 2005 Author Share Posted December 1, 2005 Okay....searched again, and found Mr. Pickles had a similar happening. (his was stripped, but still needed to be replaced) One of the instructions said to remove the hub, hammer out old stud from the front, place new stud in, and tighten the lug on the stud until it seats in the hub. Sounds easy enough. I'm going to give it a shot on the weekend. If I don't screw the job up too much, I'll do a little writeup. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94extreme Posted December 1, 2005 Share Posted December 1, 2005 yeah, that sounds about right. dont forget a realy BFH and inner hub seals.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gotrek Posted December 1, 2005 Share Posted December 1, 2005 Okay....searched again, and found Mr. Pickles had a similar happening. (his was stripped, but still needed to be replaced) One of the instructions said to remove the hub, hammer out old stud from the front, place new stud in, and tighten the lug on the stud until it seats in the hub. Sounds easy enough. I'm going to give it a shot on the weekend. If I don't screw the job up too much, I'll do a little writeup. I don't remember the proper procedure for wheel studs but it invoves heating the hub to expand the metal before you tap the old stud out and again before you insert the new stud. I'll search Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94extreme Posted December 1, 2005 Share Posted December 1, 2005 don't forget some kind of rust penetrator. i don't think you need the torch but it surely may help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pezzy Posted December 1, 2005 Share Posted December 1, 2005 What happened? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted December 1, 2005 Author Share Posted December 1, 2005 What happened? Overtightened it when I put the new tires on. I'm an idiot! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pezzy Posted December 1, 2005 Share Posted December 1, 2005 Bummer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94extreme Posted December 1, 2005 Share Posted December 1, 2005 Overtightened it when I put the new tires on. I'm an idiot! you got that much strength? wow.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted December 1, 2005 Author Share Posted December 1, 2005 Strength, no.....fat, yes. I leaned into it!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Animal Posted December 1, 2005 Share Posted December 1, 2005 I replaced all of mine years ago due to some WE-B-IDIOTS tire shop over torquing. I did not need to heat the hub, but, as I recall (so it's questionable), I had to remove the front hub due to clearance. I used WD40 and a sacrificial nut to prevent mushrooming the lug. When installing the new stud, I lined up the splines and used a spacer (socket or over sized nut) and lug nut so I could see it was fully seated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Filthy Luker Posted December 1, 2005 Share Posted December 1, 2005 I replaced all 6 on the front driver's wheel at Nissan about two weeks ago. Including parts (6 studs/6 lugs), labour and taxes it was $100CDN at my friendly Nissan dealer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted December 1, 2005 Share Posted December 1, 2005 Geez Simon, 87-108 ft lbs or 118-147 Nm is the proper torque, so only about 1/3 your weight on a 1 foot bar... Make sure to clean the hole before you put in the new stud (wire bruch and brake cleaner), you do NOT want any crud or lubricants in the hole. A press is the right way to do it, but you can use your truck, some wood blocks and a bottle jack... Presto, instant 1-2 ton press... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted December 1, 2005 Author Share Posted December 1, 2005 Geez Simon, 87-108 ft lbs or 118-147 Nm is the proper torque, so only about 1/3 your weight on a 1 foot bar... Make sure to clean the hole before you put in the new stud (wire bruch and brake cleaner), you do NOT want any crud or lubricants in the hole. A press is the right way to do it, but you can use your truck, some wood blocks and a bottle jack... Presto, instant 1-2 ton press... B Yeah, I know. My problem is I bought one of those multiple ended tire irons in the cross pattern. I forgot how much torque you can get on one of them. D'OH!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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