GrimGreg Posted November 14, 2005 Share Posted November 14, 2005 (edited) Looks like you had some burn through that had to be overwelded, I did too, kept blowing holes in the thinner parts. I used fiberglass over all of my patches to smooth it all out a little. I used that foam type heat sheild in my ceiling, didn't want to put it on the floor since it will probably hold water like a sponge(same reason I eliminated the carpet (aside from the weight reduction)). Edited November 14, 2005 by GrimGreg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lowrider Posted November 14, 2005 Share Posted November 14, 2005 i found the same hole in my truck, i went through some DEEP water and the driver's side carpet was soaked. Pulled up the corner as i thought a drain plug was missing and found that hole. Stupid nOOb question --- how did you get the carpet off? i couldn't figure out how to get it up and over the shifters and now i feel dumb. any thoughts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Posted November 14, 2005 Author Share Posted November 14, 2005 I just pulled everything out of the front, I mean everything. Only thing that was left was the shifter for 4x4, tranny shifter and the E-brake. It was time consuming pulling everything out. The carpit is one peice from the seat forward (passenger and driver side). Good luck with your job. Bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
abomb1 Posted November 14, 2005 Share Posted November 14, 2005 ... They are saying 4 to 8 inches of snow and i need tires. Looks a lot better than what you started with!! I'm looking forward to that 4-8", just not the traffic coming to work tomorrow! Glad you got it fixed in time. Now take a look at your frame rails behind the rear tires. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mws Posted November 15, 2005 Share Posted November 15, 2005 Yeah, so it ain't pretty.... So what? Form follows function. I say you did a great job! And you learned a lot as you went, so the next one will be only better... Grind off the really high points and let it be. A suggestion: Clean the entire area, scratch it up with 180 grit, and give it a coating of POR-15. Inside and out if you can. That will HELP prevent recurrence. The problem with floor boards is double sided - the crossmembers trap moisture and corrosion inducers from underneath, and the carpet and padding trap moisture from above - so the metal gets attacked from both sides. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted November 24, 2005 Share Posted November 24, 2005 Well, after cleaning the inside of my truck, I decided to check out my gas pedal floor board hole, and "Oh Crap !!", either I didn't look well the first time, or it grew !! Ok, time for a temp fix... I cut out 2 7x7" pieces of stainless sheet .025" thick. Took one, trimmed it a bit to fit the contours somewhat while still covering all the rust (and hole) then marked where the screws should go (thats the top piece). I C clamped the pieces together, and drilled through at slightly less than the minor diameter of the good sheet metal screws I dug up. Then I took the top plate, and redrilled the holes slightly over the major diameter of the screws. I put the top plate in position, using it as a template, and drilled the first hole in the floorboard (larger than the MD of the screw). Shoved a screw in the hole, drilled the second hole, put a screw in that, etc untill all 4 holes were drilled and removed the plate and screws. I flaked and chipped away the loose crap, wire brushed it well and gave it a few coats of Permatex rust treatment. We'll see how that stuff does... After some trimming and bending of the bottom piece (I only screwed up once when I forgot up is down, but front is still front. DONT ASK !) I just had to screw it together. Better part of an hour later, I had the 4 screws tight. I didn't have any help, so I was holding the bottom plate in place while trying to get the screws to bite from the top side. I DARE you to try that !! Even with my knuckle dragging monkey arms it was a contortionist's NIGHTMARE !! With help it would have been 5 minutes tops. :furious: Anyway, the results are suprisingly sound ! This is just a temp fix till spring or summer so I didn't try to seal or fill it. I'll have to pull the exhaust to do a better job of the underside rust treatment, but may very well just redo the the bottom plate then, seal it and call it good. Thought I'd share for the non welders and tight of budget... Here are a few picts... This is when I first pulled back the carpet. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted November 24, 2005 Share Posted November 24, 2005 This is the gaping wound after it has been drilled, preped and treated... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted November 24, 2005 Share Posted November 24, 2005 And the final temporary result... Took me about 3 hours, call it 1-2 with a helper and devision of labor... Anyone think this thread should go into the How To section ? B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Posted November 24, 2005 Author Share Posted November 24, 2005 Im glad mine was not that bad. Looks pretty good for a 3 hour job. Took me a good 5 to 6 hours to do mine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted November 25, 2005 Share Posted November 25, 2005 Thanks Bob. Actually, when comparing the photos, I'd say the holes are basically the same size, just somewhat different configurations... Your fix may have taken longer, but it's the right (read better) way to do it. I'll have to revisit mine next year... If you could recall the name of the fireproof foam you used, that would be helpful !! Good news about sandwiching the two peices of stainless, the outer one seems to act as a heat shield, and with the air gap between, there is virtually no transer of heat between the two. After a drive yesterday, I touched the top plate and it was hardly warm !! :cool2: I figured it would work like that, but not that successfully. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Posted November 25, 2005 Author Share Posted November 25, 2005 I just need mine to hold up for maybe 2 years at the most. I plan on buying a CA pathfinder. Hopefuly one with no rust. I was under there the other day and seems the paint that i sprayed on didnt stay one so now i have bare metal again. Today we got our first good snow and here comes the rust. I will just have to get under there again and spray it down again after sanding it down. Did you do anything to your metal? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted November 25, 2005 Share Posted November 25, 2005 Well, POR15 is the best way to do it and you can get a sample kit for about $30 that will cover that area and you will still have plenty left over. I treated mine with permatex rust treatment. This link will explain... http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showto...485&hl=Permatex Here is a link on the POR15 http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=5534 Here is a general rust treatment thread... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=5496&hl=rust Let us know what you used... Good luck !! B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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