vidro Posted October 10, 2005 Share Posted October 10, 2005 (edited) My worst fears. I mentioned after putting it all back together she ran great but I had an exhaust leak that I thought was a bad gasket in the collector area. I replaced that gasket and I still heard the exhaust leak. After further inspection I realize an exhaust manifold bolt was broken. During my removal of that manifold it was apparent it was not one bolt but 3 bolts broke, 2 of them broke off in the head the 3rd I think there is enough sticking out to get a pair vice grips on. This is on the passenger side so there is a little room to work. There are four holes around each exhaust port on the head, if I had an exhaust manifold with the opposite bolt pattern I could just get new studs and that would be it. Do they make a manifold that has reversed bolt patterns? I do not want to pull the head off to get these things out, if they don't have a reverse manifold what's my next solution? Edited October 10, 2005 by vidro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M in KC Posted October 10, 2005 Share Posted October 10, 2005 I'm unaware if they make a reverse bolt pattern maniflod. Broken exhaust manifold studs are a common occurance in this vintage of Pathfinder. You can use heat, left handed drill bits, right handed drill bits and screw extractors, and your choice of penetrating oil and remove them with the head on the motor. It can be done but it will be a PITA. The word of caution is the water jacket for the head is very close to the stud holes. One miss guided drill bit and you'll get to take the head off. One other potential option is heli-arc. But I can't remember is the heads are cast iron or aluminum. It's been a while since I've done mine. If the heads are aluminum a machine shop might be able to heli-arc the studs out. Basically, the steel will melt and literally run out of the aluminum like water. I've had this done on motorcycle cylinders before it's slick. It won't trash the threads in the head either if it's aluminum. Other than that I'm out of answers. Nissan did have kind of a half arsed recall on these studs but I doubt any stealership will own up to it and admitt it. I think their criterial was like less than 100K miles. I think you will need the ZX 300 exhaust manifold studs when you get these out. I'm sure other will chime in since many of us have been throughthe same thing. M Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vidro Posted October 10, 2005 Author Share Posted October 10, 2005 Holy Crap!! Nissan dealer wants $500 + to start on getting these things out. For that much I'll pull both heads, replace the lifters, cam, timing chain, and water pump along with spending another $100 to have a machine shop pull the studs, and I would still be cheaper. I really don't want to spend that much time on this thing. I can not believe that there is not and inverted manifold that will mount on to this head. How about headers are they inverted to the original manifold? Do they make a universal Nissan manifold? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casey.T Posted October 10, 2005 Share Posted October 10, 2005 The Exhaust guy I used here in Spokane was able to weld a nut on the broken studs and get them out that way. All but 1 were successfull. As it stands now the 95SE has one missing/broken bolt, all the other studs are new Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M in KC Posted October 10, 2005 Share Posted October 10, 2005 There are aftermarket headers avaiable for your motor. Thorley and Pacesetter make sets. I have the Pacesetters. I think the general consenses is Thorleys are better quality than the Pacesetters. Anywho, the Pacesetters use the same bolt pattern as the stock manifolds. I can't speak for the Thorleys. But I suppose if you're handy with a plasma cutter and a welder you could cut the flange off and make it what ever configuration you needed and weld it back on. You will pick up a few ponies with whatever manufacturer you go with on headers. And on these under powered motors the more horses the better. JMTC M Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vidro Posted October 12, 2005 Author Share Posted October 12, 2005 If I stick an extra thick gascket in between the head and manifold would that be a temporary fix? The only real fix to this is to pull the head off and "Easy Out" or get or manufactor an inverted bolt pattern manifold and I really don't feel like doning this right now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M in KC Posted October 12, 2005 Share Posted October 12, 2005 Personally I don't think an extra think gasket will get you very far. You need the binding pressure from the fasteners (studs, washers and nuts in this case) to seal the exhaust manifold so it doesn't leak. With broken studs you have no way to apply adequate pressure to the manifold and then to the head. In addition to the junk studs that Nissan used in this application the stock passenger side exhaust manifold has a design flaw in it that contibutes to cracks in the manifold and .... you guessed it more exhaust leaks. Yeah! I don't want to keep piling on but you need to know as much as the rest of do for this problem so that you can make informed decisions. M Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vidro Posted October 12, 2005 Author Share Posted October 12, 2005 Is there a fix for that? Since that is the side I'm working on I might look at swapping the stock manifold with something else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kn0xville Posted October 12, 2005 Share Posted October 12, 2005 just get a bolt extracter. they work wonders. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaritimeMan Posted October 12, 2005 Share Posted October 12, 2005 Upgrade!!! Time for headers. I love em, best move I ever made, sounds cool too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vidro Posted October 13, 2005 Author Share Posted October 13, 2005 Headers would be no problem. Can I kill 2 birds with one stone, do they make headers with the inverted bolt pattern? Than I won't pull the head I'll just get headers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted October 13, 2005 Share Posted October 13, 2005 With some finess and the right tools, I'm sure you could remove the broken studs without removing the heads. Remember, PB-Blaster, a propane torch, bolt extractors and patience are your friends... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vidro Posted October 14, 2005 Author Share Posted October 14, 2005 Bolt extractors would work for 1 of them but the other 2 are broke off in the head. I have done nothing but stare at this thing for the past 3 days and outside of my eyes getting tired nothing has happened. I guess the family stories of the Great Manifold Fairy may have been exaggerated, that 's a real disappointment If I continue to procrastinate on doing anything I will whined up doing nothing, and what would be wrong with that? Some one give me a REALITY CHECK (payable to me) 1. Carbon monoxide poisoning? 2. burnt valves? Or am I being just a little to sensitive? The truth is I picked this vehicle up in preparation of my boys starting to drive in the next year and a half. I will probably not giving it to him but let him drive the vehicle. There is a difference, one is a gift the other is a carrot, some of you parents may be aware how that works. ANYWAY I want it to be as safe as I can possibly get it. This was not my first choice of vehicle to let my boy start driving in, I had been at the Army surplus store prior to my purchase of this vehicle but they had just sold their last Patton Tank. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dowser Posted October 14, 2005 Share Posted October 14, 2005 (edited) Just a reminder as mentioned in every other Headers Thread, If you go with this option, make sure to pick up the Oil Relocation kit. about 45-60 USD. The headers make it a real pain in the arse to change the oil filter in it's current location. As far as where to get it, look up Oil Relocation Kit in the forums search. I recall someone even having the Part number listed. The bought the new studs for mine but haven't replaced them yet. Those bloody things were expensive on their own. There's also a Post here about the newer studs and their Part Numbers. Good Luck Dowser *edit, fixed a typo and here are the Stud and Oil filter Part numbers.* Studs from Nissan Dealership, Part # 14065-V5004 Oil Relocation Kit from Summit, Part # PRM-10695 Edited October 14, 2005 by Dowser Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted October 14, 2005 Share Posted October 14, 2005 vidro, here is a helpful link. There are several broken bolt posts. Ask me any additional questions. I'd say go ahead and try to remove them. If you have an exhaust leak, depending on the severity and location, it may just tick for a minute on start up (like mine), you could get worse milage, and maybe do damage. They generally just get worse so give it a shot. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wheel366 Posted October 14, 2005 Share Posted October 14, 2005 Nissan dealer wants $500 + to start on getting these things out. For that much I'll pull both heads, replace the lifters, cam, timing chain, and water pump along with spending another $100 to have a machine shop pull the studs, and I would still be cheaper. Replace all lifters - $30 each X 12 New Cams - $560 Timing belt - $35 Water Pump - Can't remember Much more than $500!!!!! Trust me, I know. I bought all of those things plus new heads, rocker arms, hoses and headers, etc... on top of that! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vidro Posted October 17, 2005 Author Share Posted October 17, 2005 (edited) Sounds like I'm way off on the cost of engine parts. Though I would rather spend 500 +, and have a rebuilt engine than 500 +, and only have some exhaust bolts removed. Edited October 17, 2005 by vidro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vidro Posted October 17, 2005 Author Share Posted October 17, 2005 (edited) I have an idea about removing these studs that are broken in to the head. I've been soaking them in "Blaster" for the past week. Last night the one stud that still had threads sticking out side the head, I was able to twist out by hand. I'm thinking if this one was so easy, maybe, just maybe the other might be as loose. Now for the method of getting something in there to spin them out. Using Super glue gel or a 2 part solid epoxy, apply just a matchstick head amount on a nail, than try to stab it on the broken off stud. This would give me a handle to try and spin it out. I'm hoping that the bonding material strength is sufficient to get a good first spin, I'll let you'all know what happens. The worst that could hapen is I bond my hand to the engine block, than I will have bigger problems to worry about. Is there a gasket making solution that can handel high temperature. Edited October 17, 2005 by vidro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lgranch Posted October 17, 2005 Share Posted October 17, 2005 As for your question about manifolds having a different bolt pattern. Pre 90s have a different bolt pattern than post 90. I discovered this during my last engine rebuild. I had a pile of parts from an VG30I and a VG30E. I just grabbed a manifold and and when I went to put it on the block I discovered thepattern difference. I don't remember if it was both right and left that are different and I am pretty sure that just the center connection is different. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vidro Posted October 17, 2005 Author Share Posted October 17, 2005 Do you think that the collector angle on the manifold would allow for the exhaust pipe to mount to it with little problem? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vidro Posted October 17, 2005 Author Share Posted October 17, 2005 (edited) Found the following link on the WEB. You know there is a point in time when one must look deep into their soul and verify that they indeed have a fighting chance in life regardless of how bad they blunder in their decisions, opinions, and prospective. I never thought about taking off the wheel and liner, it really didn't look like it would make a difference, evidently it does. Stud removal Edited October 17, 2005 by vidro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slick Posted October 19, 2005 Share Posted October 19, 2005 as B said above.. take the broken studs out. I did. I had 3 broke off in the head and 1 barely sticking out. We drilled down the center of the studs and coaxed them out with reverse drill bits and those funky looking thingie bobbers which I can't remember the name of now..PB blaster is your friend indeed. Get some Thorley headers and be done with it forever....worth the time n effort. I took my motor out..easier.... git-r-done! u can do eeeet Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Animal Posted October 19, 2005 Share Posted October 19, 2005 ...those funky looking thingie bobbers... You mean those things that extract? Now what in the world would you call something like that? Hmm, maybe .... naw that would be too obvious ... oh, what the heck ... "extractor". Or since they are supposed to make it easy to get things out they could also be called "easy-outs". But "thingie bobbers"? Thought they were for fishin'. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted October 19, 2005 Share Posted October 19, 2005 Ezy-Outs are a brand of bolt extractor made by Cleveland Twist Drill, are a tapered spiral fluted, and IMHO, they suck. Way too light duty and brittle. For the exhaust studs, I'd use the square, reverse straight flute design like made by Proto or the self drilling kind. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slick Posted October 19, 2005 Share Posted October 19, 2005 Ezy-Outs are a brand of bolt extractor made by Cleveland Twist Drill, are a tapered spiral fluted, and IMHO, they suck. Way too light duty and brittle. For the exhaust studs, I'd use the square, reverse straight flute design like made by Proto or the self drilling kind. B yeah! those B!!! -bounce- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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