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Throttlebody Cleaning Made Easy - Spray the What?


Guest Chrislrob
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Guest Chrislrob

My Pathy gas pedal is sticking. So I, of course, went straight to the FAQ section and was told EXACTLY what to do. Except...I'm too ignorant to know what it means!

 

It says: "This seems to be a semi common problem on the Pathfinders with Throttle Body Injection. The valve that opens and closes on the intake has fuel residue that is gummy and sticky. It caused the throttle to stick shut and you have to step harder to break it loose each time you start out from another red light. This is an easy fix. You take the plastic/rubber tube from the end of the intake and work the throttle open and closed while you spray it out thoroughly with carb cleaner. It will work like a charm and it will save you $80 from going to the dealership for this."

 

Where is the "plastic tube from the end of the intake"? I don't even know if that is inside the car or under the hood! Do I remove it completely? And does it matter if I'm doing this while the car is running?

 

It's embarassing to be this clueless! But thanks! Again!

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The plastic tube that's being referred to is the intake pipe that goes between the air cleaner box and the throttlebody on top of the intake on your engine. Since the FAQ post is referring to the TBI on 87-89 VG30i engines, this doesn't apply to your '97, which is a completely different setup. It couldn't hurt to try the same procedure, though.

 

1. Remove plastic intake pipe from throttlebody with engine off(preferably cold, too). You may need to remove it from the air cleaner box end.

2. Spray carb/throttlebody cleaner through throttlebody, opening and closing the butterfly by hand using the throttle cable pivot, making sure to clean the front AND back side of the butterfly as best you can. Try not to spray the entire can into the engine. ;)

3. Reattach the intake pipe and run the engine for a while, revving occasionally. The excess cleaner should burn off after a short time.

 

Hope that helps.

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I have done this on my 96 by removing the plastic intake tube and then cleaning the butterfly valves good with the spray. My wife told me just today that it is doing it again so I will clean it with photos in the next few days for everyone to see.

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I recently bought a 97 Pathy and I seem to be having the sticky throttle problem...I hope!

 

where can one get the cleaning agent and any possibility of a simple diagram for a

non tech type...thanks

 

 

Niall

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Okay, here is the step by step procedure to clean your intake when your gas pedal begins sticking in the "up" position and it requires effort to break it loose each time you step on the accelerator.

 

Purchase a can of Carb Cleaner from your local auto parts store...

 

Then, follow the instructions below...

 

openhood96.jpg

 

Then use an 8mm socket to loosen intake tube from intake.

 

removetube.jpg

 

Now, you can see the butterfly value covering the opening just inside the intake.

That will build up gummy residue after a while and will cause the throttle to stick in closed position (idle). Dealer tells you that only they can do this and that it is a very common issue. It has happened a couple of times on my 96 and never on my 94 model. ???

 

throttleopen.jpg

 

You spray the cleaner generously into the throttle opening while you open and close the butterfly valve with your free hand. I obvously could not do this in the photos as I only have 2 hands and I was taking photos.

 

sprayingcleaner.jpg

workingthrottle.jpg

 

You will see the residue running out of the opening. Put the intake tube back on and tighten with 8mm wrench.

 

That will take care of it. It takes about 15 minutes to do and will save you close to $100 that the dealer would like to charge you.

 

Your engine will turn over a few extra times the first time before it starts after spraying all of that cleaner in it, but it will be fine as soon as it starts. It is easy... -thnkboutit-

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Guest Chrislrob

Jim,

 

Thanks for the pics! I did it yesterday and it worked beautifullyl! Yesterday was a gorgeous day in Chicago--58 degrees in February! So I also took the opportunity to change my air filter, squeeze in a bottle of that fuel additive jet-fuelly injector cleaner type stuff, and pick up some jumper cables. Finally, I took someone's advice and sprayed my seat belt with silicone since it had completed ceased to rewind on its own. It made a big difference.

 

Just a red banner day for a guy who normally would have had all of the above done at the shop were it not for this site! Well, maybe not the air filter--I remember years ago being broke and having an oil change joint charge me $20.00 to change a $3 filter. When I saw how easy it was, I was mad for a month! LOL!

 

Hey, that reminds me--my air filter was looking a little dusty. Can changing it improve gas mileage? I'm averaging about 12 miles a gallon and at this rate, I might have to get a part-time job soon!

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  • 5 weeks later...

After reading this hint on Mr. Jim's site last year, I quickly fixed my problem on my 95 Pathfinder. Not long after I fixed mine, a friend at work had the same problem with his Saturn coup. I told him how I fixed mine, and we went out to the parking lot , and sprayed his. It took care of the problem instantly.

He was ready to sell the car because of the jerking and sticking gas pedal, and was thrilled to find such an easy and cheap fix. Thanks to this web site.

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Sometimes a little common sense can go a long way. When this problem first reared it's ugly head on my wife's 1996 Pathfinder several years ago. I wasn't sure what exactly was causing it. I tracking it from the pedal itself to the throttle and I thought that the throttle cable may have been screwed, so I called the Nissan Dealer to check on parts, etc. I spoke to a service manager and when I described it all to him, he was like, OH, this is a very common problem. It is just gummed up residue in your throttle assembly that is causing your throttle to stick in the closed position.

 

He said it is very common and was delighted to tell me that it was only a $70 repair and proceeded to set an appointment. Meanwhile, I am thinking, "heck, if that is all it is I can easily fix that." I asked him if I couldn't just use some carb cleaner to clean that out myself? He said, "OH, NOT AT ALL... THIS MUST BE DONE BY THE DEALER. IT IS NOT SOMETHING THAT YOU SHOULD EVEN TRY TO ATTEMPT ON YOUR OWN". Well, I do not trust dealers, repair shops, etc. anyway and what he was telling me was just not adding up.

 

So, I figured that it could not hurt to try my idea. I mean what could happen? Would the carb cleaner somehow melt the throttle assembly into the top of the engine or something??? Right...

 

I bought the spray, opened the plastic cover and you can see the residue. It is sticky gummy stuff and there is no mistaking what you are there to attack. Then, you use the little pressure straw that comes attached to the carb cleaner can for added pressure spraying effect. You use one hand to manually open and close the throttle and the other on the spray can to thoroughly clean all signs of the gum away. Gravity will bring most of it out of the opening, but some (diluted with carb cleaner and not a risk) will undoubtly get up in there far enough to foul up your first attempt to start your engine for a moment or two. When you first start the engine afterwards, it may act as though it is not getting gas for a couple of moments and then it will start a little roughly. Rev the engine a few times and you are GOLD...

 

Now, guess what I think of the service manager that told me this absolutely could not be done by a non-mechanic. RIDICULOUS!

 

I am glad to hear each time my story helps another person turn a $70-$100 service ripoff into a 20-minute job that cost $2 instead and you have the pride of doing it yourself too.

 

FYI:

 

This was Performance Nissan in Lynnwood, WA.

 

Later!!!

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Ok this is an interesting discussion from a non pathy stand point as well. Being one of the old guys around on this forum I glossed over this because "I always knew that this is how you fixed this problem" I have done this for literally decades. ( yes throttle bodies go back decades in some vehicles)

 

I ran accross something different in a Ford just recently. The throttle body had a sticker saying not to clean it because there was a special coating on the body and butterfly that would be damaged. I ignored this as most stickers are there to get you to run to the dealer. There was a colored coating on the butterfly and throttle body and the cleaner did take it off.

 

Anyone know why it was there or what it was suppose to do??? The car's performance is fine.

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Sounds like one of those little tricks to void a warranty by showing them that you have been in there even though it said not to. What other reason would there be to add a special coating that only seems to come off with carb cleaner?

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  • 4 weeks later...
Guest Nd4Spd

I just tried this with my 90 Pathfinder and it's actually made it worse. I tried a little bit to start with, got a rag and cleaned out behind the butterfly valve the best I could then test drove it. It stuck worse. So, I brought it back, let it cool (next day actually) and did more.

 

I've now used almost a WHOLE can of cleaner and black junk just keeps flowing out of the chamber. If I let the throttle slip out of my hands and slam shut, I can't get it open again without slamming my foot down on the pedal inside the cab. (and some times that is difficult as well).

 

I don't mind buying more of this stuff if that's what it's going to take, but it sure doesn't seem to be getting any better.

 

Anyone have any other ideas or comments?

 

Thanks.

 

Aaron

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It could be that your is just that bad and you need clean it more, or your might be something else like a bad cable, etc. If you still have stuff breaking loose and flowing out, then you may just have a lot more cleaning to do than most.

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Guest Nd4Spd

That is what I hope. I mean, as far as I know it's never been done and it's a 90, so that would probably explain it. I think i'm in the right spot because spraying makes it worse then better, so I'd imagine that I am where I need to be.

 

Thanks.

 

Aaron

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  • 2 months later...

This is great! I have the same sticky gas pedal issue, esp. when coasting down

long hills, and it's a pain in the butt (esp. when teaching my fiance how to drive

a standard...). So I am going to try this quick fix here soon.

Thanks to everyone!

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  • 3 weeks later...

One thing i would like to mention though is on New Vech's you MAY want to use Spray Fuel Injection or TBI Cleaner In Lieu of Carb Cleaner. (Gumout makes both). Carb Cleaner (and Brake Cleaner) can Somtimes Contain Checmicals that can Etch Aluminium. for the Most parts, Its not a Problem, But i did see a buddy of mine Spray the Intake of a ford f150 Quite Regulary and it did Create a Really Rough Surface inside the Venturi Behind the Butterflys. Remember, The Less Air Friction that Occurs, the Less Turbulent the air is in the Venturi, Thereby Providing more Availble air to an already Suffocating Motor. Just some food For thought, But This Definatley Does Cure the Sticky Problem!... Also works GREAT on ford Rangers, The 90 stick like a 2 year old with a lolipop!

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can anyone recommend a good brand of TBI cleaner that they have used with their rig? 88? thanks guys ... I need to do this as it seems that the throttle is trying to sick open a little bit on me and I cant get the idle down where I would like it ...

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  • 3 weeks later...

My idle has been sticking lately off and on when I goto park the truck I put it in park and the idle goes up to about 1800 rpm but when i turn it off and then back on again it returns to normal idle (700rpm).

 

also sometimes the idle is clear down to the first mark on the guage (300rpm I think) and it still idles smooth though!? anyone know why?

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Alright I know this is pritty bad to do but I unloaded 2 whole cans of carb cleaner into my throttle body!! thick black crap just kept coming out with the cleaner

when i went to start it up though it just made a loud jamming noize but after a few tries it started up but would not keep running with out some assistance.

then I tried to take it out onto the highway to blow it out when I realized that at full throttle the truck would just jump around w/o picking up speed It sounded like a 2 stroke engine sputtering down the road.

I looked back at my exhaust while at full throttle and it was misting out the carb cleaner in a grey smoke look. I think that it was choking, almost all it was getting instead of air was carb cleaner

but finally after 2 days of this mayhem my truck finally blew out all of the carb cleaner. and i looked into my throttle body and man Is it ever clean in there! And about an hour ago I was hauling a$$ and I blew out a big black cloud of build up out of my exhaust now it runs stronger than ever.

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  • 2 months later...

Hey guys, i'm kinda dissapointed cuz no one could help me with my last post, but i guess we'll see how this one goes. anyways, my 88 pathy has a starting problem. It takes a long time cranking it to ge it to start, but it almost always starts. I'm wondering if that valve thing y'all are talking about is the problem. Can anyone help me? i'd really appreciate it. thanks guys!

 

-bounce-

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  • 2 months later...
It'll probably help, yes. Also, remember to keep your tire pressures up. A low tire can rob you of MPG as well. Another thing...wintertime formulated gas and low temps make for lower gas mileage also.

I thought cooler air makes a vehicle work better, isn't that why they made a "cold-air intake"?

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I stopped by PepBoys and picked up a can of GUMOUT Air-Intake & Throttle Body Cleaner. I came home and opened up the valve. Seems like I the Las Vegas heat really damaged the plastic since its cracking. I probably need to get a new one soon. But back to the cleaning. I went ahead and starting shooting but the stupid straw kept flying off the head of the spray so I went ahead and worked without it. I kind of got carried away and almosted emptied the eniter can. Lots of black gunk kept pouring out.

 

I forgot to replace the tube and started the car. It wouldn't stay on so I stepped on the gas pedal a few times but it kept dieing on me. I got paranoid and took a look under the hood and realized it wasn't connected. I connected it and it started up nicely.

 

I took the truck around and it started off sluggish at first but it soon restored its power. But now I have two problems. One, I hear sort of a hissing sound. And two, my Engine Check light is now lit up. Will the hissing stop and will the Engine Check light shut off????

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