Nufy

You and me both.... tap Tap Tap tap tap tap tap tap........... It goes on and on for a couple minutes in the morning. I just turn up my new Mp3 player a bit more....LOL

I already looked at that and tightened them a while back when I first read about it. Maybe I'll give er another twist of the screwdriver. Or just replace it. It can't be that expensive... Right ?????

Lately i have been noticing a strong smell of gas when I start my Pathy in the mornings. Usually more noticable on cooler mornings. Starts and idles fine. Power like it always has had. Just wondering where to start looking for causes. O2 sensor ???? Oh btw 95 Pathy XE 5 spd 184,000 kms

Take the axles off. Its really not that hard and the split one's aren't all that reliable. (So I've heard) Remove the tire (after supporting on a stand) Remove the hub assembly and unbolt the axel from the T-case. (12 pt 12 mil metric socket required 3 - 4 bux at Sears) Unbolt the shock bottom and push aside. Crank the Steering Wheel all the way to the left. Should give you good access to the shaft. With the shock out of the way you should be able to slide the axle out of the wheel housing. Then you can replace the boot on a bench where it will be much easier. That was a quick summary of what I did when I did mine a few months back. I'm sure someone else will chime in if I missed anything. Good Luck.

I had to get mine for a lubricant dealer here in Calgary. Call around to see who carries it and then get the bets price. If there is a local rep in ON I bought mine from Boss Lubricants in Calgary. I got a 20 litre bucket for about 100 bucks. Way cheaper then synthetic per litre from the parts stores. If you can find one that carries it. Just my .02.

I thought it was all or some of those as well on mine. Turns out I had/have a broken exhaust mount in the backl an dit was llowing it to bang on my running boards. I removed the boards and the knocking went away. Try the simple stuff first.

Check out the host site for this forum. (Look up to the blue banner) It has a good comparison of the different model years and trim packages I think.

I got mine on ebay. 60 US for a set. Direct replacement.

I actually did mine from underneath so the battery didn't come into play at all. It was a real PITA trying to get the new one all lined up by myself but I got it. But to each their own.

Why remove the battery ?? Disconnect yes but why remove..

Maybe this thread can be cleaned up and pasted at the top with the other Important topics.

Great Write-up. I never would've thought of bringing it out over the Centerlink. I just did mine in about 3 hours including Oil change. Now I just gotta bring the old one back for the core charge. Cheers :cool2:

TXS for the free no commitment info. I'm on holidays for he next week or so but I'll pull it when I get a chance and clean it up a bit.

OK, 95 Pathy XE 5Spd V6 Had a problem with the starter on my Pathy last week. Pathy had started fine since I bought it, but one day last week I went to start it and no go. Not even a click for the solenoid. Pushed it to jump it and it started fine. Drove it home and it started with the key a bunch of times. Went on some errands and again it started fine. Came back home and parked in the garage, tried it one more time and no go. Not even a click. Grabbed a metal rod and tapped the starter a few time and it started A-OK again. That night I pressure sprayed all around the starter to clear out some of te gunk that had collected in anticipation of having to swap it out. Has been working fine ever since. Any ideas / suggestions what to look for incase it happens again ?? I'm not concerned for myself as I can always jump start it to get it home but the wife is driving it occasionally and I wouldn't want her to get caught with my kids in the car. TXS in advance.

If they don't work, Just stick em on your tranny and oil pan to collect shavings.

You have to specifically check the center hole as most chev / toyo rims will not fit over the hub. The bolt pattern / backspacing may be OK but its all pointless if you can't fit it on over the hubs.

Probably buy I don't want to run any more wire than is necessary. I can poke around with my meter but I was hoping someone with a full manual could tell me which wire is the cold side of the brake light switch.

I need to splice in to one of the wires on the brake pedal for my trailer brake controller. There are two switches mounted to the pedal. Which one should I splice into for my brake controller.

Yup Thats as far as I went when I did mine on my 95. Hubs went on in a matter of minutes after that.

It would have to be perfectly centered to keep the integrity of the wheel. then you would have to re-balance each wheel. As well you should get all 4 done for when / if you rotate your tires. I had the same problem with some 15x7 chevy rims I was given. I am looking for some other ones to get wider. If you wanna keep em take em to a machine shop and get all 4 done. Otherwise look for another option. Do not mess with the hubs. Good luck.

Check your ground. I bought a pre-wired harness for my 95 and a converter to go from the flat 4 way to the round 7-pin for my trailer. The white ground of the 4-way flat was not connected to the 7 way converter. You have to ground the white wire on the 7 pin plug. At least thats what I had to do. Oh, and if you are pulling a trailer, check the clearance if you have the rear mounted spare tire. I had to remove my tire and mount to hook up my new trailer. Good Luck.

Audioslave

26 % Interest. Holy sh!t was you hiney sore after they got you like that. Seems a little excessive for a car loan.

You bet..... Are there any gotchas in removing the shifter ?? Probably a newbie question but I have never done it before. It does seem a lot easier then trying to get it in through the filler hole.

I'll try and work on my punctuation before I attemp this procedure. TXS for the info.