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Help! Reset ECU?


Earth1
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Thanks for the link. I could not find that last night.

 

I tried to disconnect the battery and it doesn't help. Is this supposed to reset the ECU? What have other people done to fix this problem? I've already trashed my stock airbox :hide: and my truck is stranded at a friend's place. I'm going to see what diagnostic code I get. How do I get the computer to adjust to getting more air? :wacko:

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when I put on a cone filter my '90 ran fine. then I disconnected the battery and reset the ecu[as has been said above] it ran even better. your problem is likely not the ecu. could it be problem with installation ? maf ? --good luck - glenn

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With my 88, simply disconnecting the battery works for me. Though normally, when I do it I leave it for at least 20min (often longer) before I put power back to it.

 

I would take glenn’s advice and start checking other things. Make sure the MAF (Mass Air Flow sensor) is making good contact at the electrical connection. Also make sure that during the installation the two metal contacts.. wires… were not damaged.

 

You can find “Cleaning your MAF Sensor” in “General Topics -> The Garage -> How-To's” section. It’s written for 87-89’s but you’ll get the idea. And it has an image of what I was talking about above.

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Thanks but I already checked the MAF, and everything looks fine. I also had the battery disconnected for quite a while. Is there a possible loose wire or vacuum that I'm overlooking?

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Thanks for the ideas fellas. I'm stumped. Since everyone seems to have had no problems lke this, I really think I've loosened something. Is it possible for the MAFS to be damaged beyond the 2 little wires that I might not see? The connection and sensor side look fine. Starting to get frustrating. Even if I had a stock box to put back on, I don't think that would help. My adapter is ghetto, but it doesn't seem to be leaking.

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Er, check the MAF wiring connector, there have been issues with them before. Also check for vacuum/intake leaks. The best way to do this is have it running and spray WD-40 strategically at possible leak points. If the RPM increases, you have found a leak.

unhook the battery and let the system discharge

I believe the trick is to turn on the ignition with the battery disconnected and tap the brakes a few times. The lights will 'discharge' the system immediately. ;)

Good luck and keep us informed !

 

B

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i normally clear my ECU by the procedures in that link.. never had a problem... you missed something or damaged something... check everything again... since the truck just started this after you worked on it, it has to be related..

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Ok ran the diagnostic:

 

Mode I: Green LED on / No blinking.

I need a new oxygen sensor. Maybe not the problem here but I'll get a new one.

 

Mode II: Green/Red LED blink simultaneously.

OK.

 

Mode III: Green/Red LED: 5 blinks each.

OK.

 

Mode IV: OK

 

Mode V: Green LED blinks irradically and fluctuates with RPMs. Faster blinks at mid-RPM.

Apparently I manhandled the MAF and now need a new one. $165 is the cheapest around and I can't get it until tomorrow. Maybe I'll get lucky with a scrapper.

 

Thanks for the help.

 

EDIT: The connector seems to be in good shape, and I just cleaned the MAf not too long ago.

Edited by Earth1
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I kinda got lucky. A guy from Nissan Wheelers of Colorado has a wrecked Pathy with an extra MAFS I can borrow to see if that is the problem before I buy a new one. I would love to find out the much cheaper connector is bad, but with my luck lately who knows.

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I tried using a borrowed MAF and it still runs like crap. I checked the connector and all vacuum lines I could find in the area. I can't see any reason for this problem. WTF is going on?

 

I don't see how this could be related since it really has nothing to do with the intake, but could a bad o2 sensor cause an engine to barely run? That would be some coincidence that my truck ran fine, changed the air filter, and now the o2 sensor crapped.

 

Maybe this will help someone with a diagnosis-

 

Parked:

-Engine seems to start fine.

-Throttle is ok for first few hundred RPM.

-Pressing down fast on accelerator it bogs down at mid range, makes a deep sound and almost dies.

-Feathering gas to get past bogged range engine will rev to high RPM, responds normally to "racing" the accelerator once higher RPM are reached.

-Smells rich.

 

Driving:

-Engine died twice trying to move out of parking spot.

-Takes careful feathering of gas to keep engine from stalling at a stop.

-Only had it up to about 25 MPH, not much change. Didn't want to stall on a major road, so that's the fastest I got.

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The O2 sensor could have something to do with it, but it should just run real rich, not bog and die... :shrug: And no, changing the air filer should not make anything fail. Did you try the WD-40 trick to look for leaks after the MAF ? Yeesh, this one is annoying, and it isn't even my truck !!

 

B

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I afraid I'm out of ideas for now... Hard to trouble shoot when you are not at the truck. I'd say run the codes again and see what it says. Maybe it is time to limp her to a mechanic, Just make sure they know Nissans (hopefully pathfinders). Sorry Bud. :shrug:

 

B

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