dmvhornback Posted June 18, 2024 Share Posted June 18, 2024 (edited) Sorry if this topic has been covered but I looked at a bunch of posts and nothing seems to have addressed my issue specifically. The other day I lost power to my windows (including the hatch) and my power locks. I suspected a faulty door lock timer per some other posts. But after a replacement, this didn’t not solve my issue. Neither did the replacement of a master switch. When I try to use any of the controls I can’t hear any relays going off or anything of the sorts and I’m kinda at a lost with my windows stuck down. So I’m must assume it’s a relay? But I’m not sure which relay or where to start. im pretty bad with electrical issues, even so I have a multimeter (that I barely know how to use lol). id appreciate any input. Edited June 18, 2024 by dmvhornback Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
level9 Posted June 19, 2024 Share Posted June 19, 2024 I don't have power options but looking at the FSM, it looks like doors/windows all route to a circuit breaker for power (not a fuse) that is possibly located behind the driver side kick panel - a black, round thing connected to a plug. Maybe replace that.. or dig around for 'circuit breaker' issues may help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted June 20, 2024 Share Posted June 20, 2024 Go through your fuse box, see if you've got one blown. A blown fuse is likely a symptom, rather than the cause of the problem (they don't tend to fail on their own), but it's a place to start. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmvhornback Posted June 20, 2024 Author Share Posted June 20, 2024 On 6/18/2024 at 5:53 PM, level9 said: I don't have power options but looking at the FSM, it looks like doors/windows all route to a circuit breaker for power (not a fuse) that is possibly located behind the driver side kick panel - a black, round thing connected to a plug. Maybe replace that.. or dig around for 'circuit breaker' issues may help. I’ve been looking for this thing all day yesterday and I can’t find it. But I believe you’re right about that circuit breaker being this issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmvhornback Posted June 20, 2024 Author Share Posted June 20, 2024 6 hours ago, Slartibartfast said: Go through your fuse box, see if you've got one blown. A blown fuse is likely a symptom, rather than the cause of the problem (they don't tend to fail on their own), but it's a place to start. Yeah that was the first place I checked, checked all with a multimeter and were good. I highly suspect it’s the “circuit breaker” thingy after reading some other forums posts but I am having trouble locating it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
level9 Posted June 20, 2024 Share Posted June 20, 2024 (edited) 2 hours ago, dmvhornback said: I’ve been looking for this thing all day yesterday and I can’t find it. But I believe you’re right about that circuit breaker being this issue. It should look something like this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/264635006128 The FSM shows it left of the fuse block - says "Beside Fuse Block" . It's in the BF (body) section of the manual, not EL (electrical) because.. special snowflake . Possibly next to the ground wire screwed into the chassis behind the kick panel. It may be stuffed in there with other stuff (door chime, etc.). At least on the hardbody forums, that's where it is. Some have it on the pass side kick panel. Maybe different years. It looks like it may also have its own fusible link connection on the battery so you may also want to check there (no melted wires, etc.). Again, special snowflake... Wiring: white/black + white/green -> circuit breaker white + white/black -> fusible link Edited June 20, 2024 by level9 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmvhornback Posted June 22, 2024 Author Share Posted June 22, 2024 It should look something like this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/264635006128 The FSM shows it left of the fuse block - says "Beside Fuse Block" . It's in the BF (body) section of the manual, not EL (electrical) because.. special snowflake . Possibly next to the ground wire screwed into the chassis behind the kick panel. It may be stuffed in there with other stuff (door chime, etc.). At least on the hardbody forums, that's where it is. Some have it on the pass side kick panel. Maybe different years. It looks like it may also have its own fusible link connection on the battery so you may also want to check there (no melted wires, etc.). Again, special snowflake... Wiring: white/black + white/green -> circuit breaker white + white/black -> fusible link Hmm thanks for examples, and I haven’t checked “beside” or below the fuse block yet… neither the passenger side. This may be where I’m going wrong. Unfortunately, I had to leave the truck with a car cover in my parent’s driveway because I needed to make an impromptu trip to Arizona. But this is where I’m starting when I get back!!! You’ve been a great help! I almost debated taking it to a mechanic to fix it because I was going crazy and I figured it couldn’t haven been an expensive fix… but you have restored my hope/ confidence lol.P.S I will update this thread with my progress when I return.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted June 23, 2024 Share Posted June 23, 2024 EL doesn't show the circuit, but it does show (roughly) where every electrical plug in the truck is located, down in the harness layout section. The '90 manual shows 211M below the fusebox, A pillar/driver's kick panel area as level9 described. The '95 manual shows it on the passenger's side. Probably a round-dash thing. I would expect yours to match the '90 manual. This is what the breaker looks like, if that helps. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmvhornback Posted July 7, 2024 Author Share Posted July 7, 2024 So my part came in. I found the circuit breaker., It was on the passenger side. Replaced with a brand new one (was not able to check continuity because most of my tools are put away in storage right now), and it had no effect. Power windows and Locks still aren’t working this is disheartening and may just take it to an electrical technician to get a diagnosis cause I’m in school full time in the moment and won’t be free till beginning of August. If anyone else has any other ideas of where else I could look, any help would be appreciated. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmvhornback Posted July 7, 2024 Author Share Posted July 7, 2024 It should look something like this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/264635006128 The FSM shows it left of the fuse block - says "Beside Fuse Block" . It's in the BF (body) section of the manual, not EL (electrical) because.. special snowflake . Possibly next to the ground wire screwed into the chassis behind the kick panel. It may be stuffed in there with other stuff (door chime, etc.). At least on the hardbody forums, that's where it is. Some have it on the pass side kick panel. Maybe different years. It looks like it may also have its own fusible link connection on the battery so you may also want to check there (no melted wires, etc.). Again, special snowflake... Wiring: white/black + white/green -> circuit breaker white + white/black -> fusible link Would you happen to know which side of the fire wall the the fusible link is? After replacing the circuit breaker, nothing happened and I don’t have my multimeter to check the continuity.P.S - would I check the continuity by simply sticking the meter into the plug/harness/wiring thingy lol (name is slipping my mind)Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
level9 Posted July 8, 2024 Share Posted July 8, 2024 4 hours ago, dmvhornback said: Would you happen to know which side of the fire wall the the fusible link is? After replacing the circuit breaker, nothing happened and I don’t have my multimeter to check the continuity. P.S - would I check the continuity by simply sticking the meter into the plug/harness/wiring thingy lol (name is slipping my mind) The fusible links are located right at the battery terminal. From the positive post there is a set of connectors/wires, probably ~4" long. These are the fusible links for the car. Other than the starter (the big cable) , everything runs through these fusible links which are supposed to melt if there is a short. For where and what to test with the multimeter you're really going to need the FSM (Body section). It includes information on how and where to test (which pins, etc.) and where to use a test lamp. It's fairly instructive if not... time consuming. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmvhornback Posted October 23, 2024 Author Share Posted October 23, 2024 So I just wanted to update this thread to let everyone know what the issue was. This ended up being a more complicated job than I could handle so I took it to a reputable mechanic in my area. As you all suspected, the fusible link was blown and so they replaced it a fused one. Windows were working fine for a day or two when they crapped out again, but fusible link was still intact. Door lock timer and power circuit breaker were also still working. The root issue somehow ended up being the old switch for the electric suspension my SE came with from the factory. I took those off and installed some bilstein shocks a while ago but the switch in the cabin was somehow causing a relay (don’t remember which one exactly) to short and burn out.The parts were cheap, but the labor time they took figuring out the issue was the real cost. Ended being about $400-$500… in total. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted October 23, 2024 Share Posted October 23, 2024 That is a weird one! Good to hear you got it tracked down. Now I'm wondering if I left any of that harness behind when I swapped out my shocks... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gamellott Posted October 23, 2024 Share Posted October 23, 2024 Yes, Labor can be expensive for something time consuming. $400-$500 is pretty cheap overall. I wonder how much labor someone would charge for a Timing Belt and Water Pump on one of these??? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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