Bleeding Brakes

[Harbinger]

In my never ending pursuit of car-know how I've come to this question.

 

Whats the best way to bleed a brake system?

 

Do I need to order one of those vaccum bleeder systems?

[Precise1]

I've never used a break bleeder system that worked worth a darn, but then I have never purchased an expensive one. I use clear aquarium tubing, a glass jarand a friend. Have them pump and hold the brake, while you loosen then tighten the nipple beforee they back off on the petal. Always bleed the fathest brake from the master cylinder, then the second farthest, etc. Piece of cake. Once you have done it a few times, it takes about 5 min per tire max. Oh, make sure you dont suck the resevoir dry, and dont get ANY hydrolic fluid on the paint !!

 

B

[jjeffri]

As stated above...that is all there is to it. I use an old 7up bottle for storing the old fluid, but that is because I didn't have a glass jar. Make sure you get a length of tubing long enough to go from the bleed valve to your storage container, that stuff will eat your paint up so it is best to keep it very well contained.

 

Save yourself the money, don't buy a kit; instead, buy a 6-pack of beer and split it with your buddy who helped you with this task, sit down, and watch some baseball. You might need a 12-pack if it is a SD Padre game.

[Harbinger]

Is it required to have all the wheels off as your doing this? Or can I do the back two first, reinstall the wheels and then do the front?

 

I ask because I only have two jackstands, and while I don't mind spending money on new tools I would prefer to have a practical reason for buying them. :contract:

[NZ Terrano Owner]

When I do mine, I don't bother to take the wheels off. It is easy enough to reach the nipples from underneath.

If you did want to take the wheels off then removing the rear ones first and then the front ones would be OK.

If your bleed nipples haven't got a rubber cap on them, they may be blocked with crud. Remove them and dig it all out with a needle. Reinstall and pump away.

[mws]

The pump/hold/purge/release method will work pretty well on most vehicles most of the time.

 

However, once you try a MityVac, there's no going back! It makes the job faster and very easy to do by yourself. Get the aluminum version (Silverline?) and it will last you years... I bought mine about 15 years ago. I just had to replace the cups and hoses because they had become brittle, but the pump is still working great. I think the complete kit is around $70.

 

My technique: Use the MityVac to suck the master cylinder dry. Refill with fresh fluid. Bleed the right rear until fluid comes out clean. Then left rear. Then right front. Lastly left front.

When you're done, ALL of the old nasty fluid is purged.

I do this every two years on my 4 wheel vehicles, every year on the 2 wheelers. Since starting that routine, I have never had to rebuild a master cylinder or brake cylinder! It's the water in the old hydraulic fluid causes the rust that causes brake component failure. Keep the system clean and sealed and they will last decades.

[94extreme]

plastic turkey baster works great for removal of old fluid form the mc..

 

if you have no helper you can use a simple air lock... works kind of like a bong in reverse.. have long enough tubing to make it to the bottom of the container and have some fluid in it. you open the bleeder and and then pump away.. you won't need to too many times as there is really no restriction on the flow... the fluid and air will flow out but the fluid in the bottom of the container will prevent air from traveling back up the lines..

[Mookie]

plastic turkey baster works great for removal of old fluid form the mc..

 

if you have no helper you can use a simple air lock... works kind of like a bong in reverse.. have long enough tubing to make it to the bottom of the container and have some fluid in it. you open the bleeder and and then pump away.. you won't need to too many times as there is really no restriction on the flow... the fluid and air will flow out but the fluid in the bottom of the container will prevent air from traveling back up the lines..

That's the way I do mine as I usually don't have a helper.

 

This thread reminded me that I've never bled the entire system since I've owned the Pathy. I will be emptying the master cylinder next and purging all the fluid this weekend...if time permits!

[lewisnc100]

Not sure about the years you're talking about here, but if you have a load sensing valve you need to bleed that first.

[Harbinger]

 

....works kind of like a bong in reverse..

Ah, thats why I like this site, terminolgy I can understand!

[Precise1]

MZ, so you blow into it and light the exhaust fumes ? I'm not really sure what the respected results would be... Perhaps you could clarify ?

 

B

[94extreme]

.. me thing the mental gymnast ought to finagle that one.. Edited May 14, 2005 by mzxtreme